k9sar

well.. I ran my wife's van with a quart of coleman fuel for about a month (it was pretty f-d up with sludge from the prior owner) bottom line is... you're probably fine but can use an addative (like Gunk or STP) prior to the change. These are all designed to help breakup sludge etc and they say to put it in and run it for 5 minutes or so. A day would be fine. They key is to get it circulating and to temp so it can do it's stuff (trip to work). Then to circulate and get to temp to flush any loose stuff into the pan or filter (the trip home). I used coleman fuel since it was more agressive and I needed that for my application.

that's the only way I do it. The starter isn't strong enough to break anything like that. Don't worry about flying metal unless you don't have a good place to rest your cheater bar. I slip mine into a length of pipe and use the ground to block it. I have seen others use just a cheater bar and a jack to support the handle. I opted not to use this method since I had a crappy jack and I did not trust that it wouldn't slip off. My new floor jack would work fine but I'm just used to my pipe and the earth for support.

I'll chime in as well... A few extra thousandf miles won't hurt. If you really want to do a good job getting the gunk out before your oil change, I would go to the local Walmart and buy a can of Coleman camp fuel. This contains about 50% solvent naphtha. Add about a quart to your crankcase and run it to temperature a couple of times before your oil change. (a few days of running to the store or to work). The solvents will breakdown gunk and crap and even eat at the varnish caused by overheated oil. Don't run for a LONG time cause it reduces the lubrication ability of your oil and is kinda explosive (similar to a very refined gasoline). The biggest problem is due to the reduced lubrication so don't worry about blowing up your truck.

partznet.com is a local dealership near me that also does online sales. Not sure how their prices compare. No aftermarket stuff there. and the Dayco has alignment marks... just don't trust the arrows (wink)

you didn't post that yours was broken now, did you?

Mine's a Dayco from Advanced Auto. Never broke one (only shreaded it a bit when the tensioner stud broke)

Power antenna can usually be replaced by taking off the lock nut and turning on the radio. As the antenna extends, grab it and pull gently, letting it come completely out of the winding mechanism (make note of the tooth direction). To install, have radio on and shove antenna toothed mechanism into the mast home (with the teeth in the right direction) then turn off the radio. It should grab and pull the antenna in. Of course, this could be how to do a Honda. DO NOT LOSE THE MOUNTING SLEEVE THAT IS ON THE BASE OF THE MAST! This stupid little piece keeps the antenna from being very loose and I have not found it to be a dealer orderable item. The new mast does not come with it. It's a metal 'tube' about 2 inches long that slides over the base of the mast.

removing the rad is not necessary but you risk dinging it a little as you fight with removing the fan and other crap. You should find that it is much easier to get in there now that you have been there before.

it takes awhile for the fluid to get back there. Pul the hose off the top pump to make sure the pump is working first. Then you can use a syringe or something to try to shove water through your hose. It could be a blockage or it could be a broken line. If you hook a compressor to it (low pressure), you might be able to tell where the breech is by listening (if it doesn't blow air out the rear ports)

Put your no.1 cyl at TDC (or lineup your timing marks to 15 deg BTDC. Look at your disty cap to see where #1 is and slide the disty into place. The rotor will rotate as you insert it. If the final position is off, slide it out until the rotor stops turning, rotate to the next tooth over and reinsert. Trial and error until you have your rotor at #1 when it's fully in. Being off by 1 tooth will make a big difference so it should be obvious. Once you are close, the final adjustment is by twisting the disty to set the timing.

Part number 13510V5000 was superseded by part number 1351088G00.

Geez... I had been following along and applauding your work to date.... they you pull a boner like this and dump tranny fluid all over the place. I'm now disenchanted. no beer for you.

there are a few places where the engine is grounded. It's not just one wire. If others are bad or missing, there will be too much current through a too-small guage wire and that equals heat.

mine always read low until I replaced my thermostat and the temp pickup in the top of the housing.Now she sits about halfway

I always figured that the flow through the cooler would force any air through it no matter what angle you had it at. so... are you done yet?

I'm going to have to go back and reread the entire thread then I'll chime in again. half to 3/4 temp is not sufficient to call it an overheat. I pinned mine and set my carpet on fire dragging a boat up a long hill on a hot day. It did not blow the coolant. I typically run just about half temp. A thermostat and/or a temp sensor can certainly cause strange temps and readings but like I said... let me go abck and re-evaluate the entire situation.

good news on that.

oil in the coolant... could be a gasket breach between the oil channel and the coolant jacket or... it could be a cracked head or block. Did you check your oil to see if there is coolant in it? I thinkt eh only way to do that is to use a clean pan and pull the drain plug. See if any water beads out at the bottom.

teh opposite would occur. If you breached the HG to the coolant, you would draw on the intake and your truck would blow steam like a train until you shut it down, giving it time to fill and hydrolock the engine.

it's never easy but yu have the option of drill and retap if necessary

find where the noise (click) comes from. That will help you tremendously. small single click is probably your starter relay, hence the problem occurs after that. usually in the trigger wire or a bad solenoid on the starter rapid clicks - most likely weak battery or bad cable to terminal connection on battery big click (or thunk) - problem either in pos feed to starter or internal. Check voltage at big red wire on starter. If good, it's probably the internal contacts

cause we're special and you're not basically, you want the compressor running so, just to be sure, you set the AC on and the temp to the coldest setting (hence the term MAX)

whew! had me worried a bit. So your installation is sandwiched between tthe two.

yes, the sight glass should be on the compressor but... not on my pathy either. I simply fill to pressure while the engine is running and the AC on full. be careful not to give the compressor a big gulp of liquid or it could do serious damage. That is why they say to hold the can upright and let the gas go in as opposed to inverted where you are sucking straight liquid. And like Adam said... if it blows cold, don't worry about it.