k9sar

Drag it up to PA and I'd be glad to help.

auto here as well

what he said. You'll have to manually turn the engine to get to the bolts but they are accessable through the starter hole and even moreso if you remove that lower plate that is also there

Pull up the carpet, wire brush the rust the best you can, get a cookie sheet (not a non-stick and aluminum won't rust) the thicker the better, trim to size and beat into shape, run a big bead of 100% silicone sealant and shove it in place. Drop a couple of silicone hot-pads on it for insulation. pull come fo the carpet backing/padding from the upper portion behind your pedals to fill-in what burned and replace the carpet. Next time you are under the truck, spray past the exhaust system and hit the cookie sheet with some rubberized undercoating. That will also help insulate it and will make the repair look much less like a cookie sheet. Mine has worked and passed vehicle inspection for a few years. Total cost of repair.... not a hell of a lot.

x3

never smelled the kitty but I had deer parts cooking on mine once

www.nissanpathfinders.

Insurance companies use a figure that is a percentage of the fair market value when determining if it is totaled or not. More times tahn not, it's 85%. That provides them cushion for when you take it to the shop for repair and more stuff is found to be bad and the shop submits supplimental claims. had to fight with this myself in the past.

... goes back to scraping off the .com from his rear window

there are a few hreads in here about starter troubles. There are basically a couple things to check... do you have constant hot (12+V) to the starter (measure at starter lug)? Do you have 12v on the trigger wire to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to 'start' or your button is pushed? Does your voltage at the starter drop from 12v to MUCH less when trying to start? From these things, you can isolate where in the system the problem is and direct your fix towards eitehr the battery terminals not making good connection, a bad connection in the 'trigger' wire running from your starter switch (key or button) to the solenoid or perhaps bad contacts in the starter itself (it can happen expecially if you have a rebuild vs a new one). There is also information in a thread about taking it out, gutting it, cleaning the commutator and other contacts, etc. I'd post the link(s) but I'm on a different work computer and all my shortcuts are missing

I use it on the headlights, skylight and shower doors as well. Though about rain-x'ing the kitchen floor and doing a bit of skating but that would probably result in injury

I have a 95 and the turning radius sucks

When applied correctly, I don't have to use my wipers, even in a deluge. I love the stuff but have never tried the washer fluid product.

may as well throw new v-belts on. cheap and couldn't hurt to replace.

I can check when I get home tonight if nobody else chimes in. You are looking for the size of the smaller bolts that hold the support through the front grill, right? Not the big-assed ones that mount to the lower frame.

I'm amazed that people buy them

did it come with the firewood as well?

The FCC ID number you need is G57NTX318

if it's injected, check the little hose between your fuel rails. watch the ends when someone starts it. May need the clamps tightened

among many things that are liste and all the normal tools I pickup everytime I have a job to do (always a good escuse to buy a new tool)... cardboard boxes are excellent to let you slide in and out from under the truck the stainless steel pieces of metal from old wiper blades come in handy for lots of applications several lengths of 1/4 inch aquarium air line and a big (10 cc or larger) syringe 1" diameter 6' long pieve of galv steel conduit, flattened mostly at one end to slip over wrenches for cleanup... a can of coleman fuel, an old toothbrush and a bar of lava soap. and my favorite tool.... my visa card

pull your codes. It is possible that a significant leak would reduce the fuel pressure and potentially cause an intermittent fuel injector misfire or perhaps not enough fuel. I doubt any mechanic would have touched this when doing service other than cylinder head or fuel rail. This is a known and fairly common point of failure/leakage

I've been watching this, waiting for a hard failure so I can diagnose it. Interestingly, when it 'fails', the speedometer seems to read half of what it should. I wonder if the speed sensor has dual pickup points inside it and one is failing. dunno. I doubt the cops will accept the "I was only doing 45, according to my speedometer" excuse.

agreed. There were lots of variations on suspension packages for the jeeps. It's tough to figure out what you are looking at unless you decode the VIN. Much easier just to measure the coils..

especially on a cold day. Under the intake area, on top of the engine, there is a 3" or so piece of tubing that connects the injector rails. There are screw-type hose clamps on the end that will need to be tightened. Easy to spot if this is your 'leak' if you look at the ends of the hose when someone else fires up the truck. As soon as the engine warms up a little bit, the silly thing seals itself.

no voting in lo-fi mode so I will just chime in. Bought my pathy new in early 95 so I'm approaching 15 years