k9sar

in our old Ford, we used the Prestone bottle as the overflow bottle after we filled the system. Wedged it in a good location and never had an issue.

I usually take the hose off the radiator, open the overflow and blast the thing with the garden hose. If nothing squirts out the hose to the radiator, I hit it with a little compressed air to blast out whatever is stuck in it.

Are you sure you didn't put the timing belt on backwards? (sorry... that was mean)

my fusable link was obvious when it died. Of course, my battery had leaked all over the connector and dissolved it.

chasing intermittent problems is a royal PITA. I love when things fail completely. it makes it soooo much easier to track down.

awesome. thanks for posting the solution. It now makes sense since the truck ECU adjusts the mixture and spark based on sensor readings (temp being one of them).

me three

Scott... check your PM's Scott

turn your crankshaft so you are not at TDC. back it off about 1/4 stroke. This should be enough to make clearance for the valves. Put R3 and L3 where they need to eb then put the crankshaft back at TDC.

they are tight when they all are torqued to spec (+ a couple pounds),

holy triple post batman! don't use urethane glue. It would probably get brittle and crack over time with the heat. Don't violate the gasket with by shoving anything in there (metal things etc) I would loosen the oil pump bolts lightly and lift gently on the side that leaks. Pull straight out so you don.t break the existing gasket. If you get any kind of gap to work with, give it a shot of goo then tighten those bolts. Let it fill the areas it needs to and ooz out all the excess. If you shoot rubber in there and let it harden, it may seal right there but would probably leak at the transition from the hardened goo to the existing gasket. Sounds like you need just a little shot and some good torque. Quit p***y-footing around and do it already.

an interesting idea think of the open areas that you might want to plug also (crankcase breather tubes etc)

I have a set of pacesetters but they are still in a box in my garage. One of these days I'll get around to installing them.

but it should be hi-temp (of course, if it's 100% silicone, it's hi-temp whether it says so or not)

what he said

If I were to attempt to shove sealant into the crack, it would be a silicone gasket adhesive or similar hi-temp rtv. Might be a bugger to get in there but would compress and seal. my 2 cents

so don't. all (ok, most) oils have detergents to help breakdown gunk. Simply doing an oil change will help get rid of some.

I ran a full quart for about a month trying to get rid of gunk in my wife's van. Typically, I'll throw in a quart (or a little less) and run for a day or two before doing a normal oil change. IT's much cheaper than the motor flush products

but just think of the nice annotated how-to thread you could create.

was a commercial vehicle and I'm guessing there was never an oil change. I did my changes every 8 to 9k but there was a blockage in the cam bearing long before I got it. Ended up smoking the rear head due to lack of oil. You should have seen the crap I pulled out of it... not even like tar... it crumbled.

yep. I use it all the time to clean my hands after working ont he truck. Cuts grease and gunk very well. It's the same contents (mostly) as in Gunk motor flush just in different proportions. Much more naphthalene in coleman fuel.

wipe everything down. leave everything off (v-belts, covers, balancer, etc) (put the TB back on) leave the coil disconnected crank it using the starter only. You won't have to go very long and don't worry about draining the battery. If you can rig a remote starter switch (I used an old extension cord and a house wall switch), you can control the cranking while shoving your head in there to look. Just run from the battery positive to the trigger post on the starter solenoid (after disconnecting the silly little plug) With everything wiped and clean, it should be obvious where the oil is coming from. With the amount shown in your 'failure' (for lack of better reference), it should be very obvious. You are not looking for a small leak. hmmm.. thinking about the lower seal... you might want to put your HB back on and snug the bolt. I wonder if you would blow the seal out if you did not have the TB gear and the HB bolted on. It need not be tight since it's keyed and you won't be cranking it for very long. You could also dust suspected areas with baby powder or chalk dust to help see where the fresh oil comes from. Never done it but I have heard of it being done.

coleman fuel is naphthalene-like. I put it in the oil to help dissolve stuff. I ran normal gas in the gas tank.

did we happen to mention that you can't put it back on the same way?

this is what I had to deal with. A 5-minute cleaner wouldn't do anything. oven cleaner works great on the heads I ran with coleman fuel for a month or so after the rebuild just to get the remaining yuk out of the block since I didn't pull my cam.