k9sar

that's why he gets paid the big bucks.

definately give them a good soaking. The passenger side on mine was much nore difficult due to crap in the way. I was able to get at mine using a rt-angle drill adapter and cobolt drills. One of them I accessed using a hex'd easy-out-type gadget and a long screwdriver bit extension in my drill. Open your mind and be creative.

sending unit? Cam seals?

ok.. 95 pathy and I am now having turn signal issues that go beyond a bulb being out... The symptoms... When the right turn signal is on, the relay clicks rapidly, the rear turn signal flashes rapidly and there is nothing on the front turn signal light (very much like the bulb being burned out but...). When the left turn signal is on, the relay clicks slowly, the rear turn signal flashes slowly and there is nothing on the front light. I have tested both bulbs in a marker light socket and they work. I have installed new bulbs (just for grins) and the problem remains. I pull the bulb (right side) and check the voltage from each tab to ground with the turn signal active and I do not read any fluctuating voltage on either tab. Same for the drivers side (now wondering if I should be able to read an intermittent 12V when it is not screwed up. I can test that on a tail blinker tomorrow when the wife's van isn't parked right up against my spare tire.) The plugs are wired into the main harness and I'm not sure where the next point I can get at the turn signal wires is to check for voltage there (looking for possible broken wire in harness). All body grounds look good and I have connectivity on each socket tab to ground (which makes sense since the rear blinkers share the circuit and, with the bulbs in the socket, there will be connectivity to ground.) I'm a bit stumped right now and don't want to go tearing into the harness unless I have to. Suggestions? Please, no guesses. I don't need any red herrings to chase right now. I have too much other crap that needs to be done. Thanks for the input.

btw... the stock ones are really only good as a water deflector or a home for rodents. It's pretty thin and I beat the hell out of mine.

I have one (with the rubber wings) laying in my garage. Don't need it since I put on my black panther skids. Shame it won't fit in a flat-rate box or I'd send it to ya.

standard or only with the offroad package?

I have an auto but was able to get at the bolt with a socket, a u-joint, several lengths of wobble extensions and a rachet handle. About 2 1/2 feet in extensions.

I was going to suggest that you run some simple tests to see if it is your starter, the constant hot feed or the trigger wire/ignition circuit. If it turned out to be the starter, pull it and open her up. Clean out all the old oil and crap that has dripped into it over the years, brush out the commutator so the brushes make good individual contact, check that the brushes have travel left and put it back together. Jumper cables and a clip lead will let you bench test it before crawling back under the rig. I had a thread in here somewhere talking through all that as well as running the inhibitor/circuit bypass since we worked on one that had a bad connection somewhere in the wiring. If you decide to try to save a few bucks and clean/refresh your old one rather than keep the new one, let me know and I'll see if I can dig-up the old posts. Scott

how many do you want? I think I still have a full set that have about 80k mikes on them before I swapped the engine.

Does that qualify as "OEM"?

just paid 145 each installed for BFG AT/KOs from NTB and they had a $15 coupon

I get between 16 and 19 as my daily driver. Was getting under 14 before I replaced my O2 sensor

There is an easy solution to any bad paint job...

well... I'll have to check later... it's time for my nap

WD40 is a waste of money and only good as a water displacer (hence the WD). If you are looking to get ........ apart, get a can of PB Blaster or silikroil (sp?). Good luck with the project. Looking forward to some pics.

not sure if it is the same as the 95 but I have replaced mine. if I recall, i used a tiny rachet screwdriver bit to get at it. fairly easy

mine are running fine now (pacesetters and no lift). One concern I have is that the pacesetters were painted and that paint is burning/peeling off. No issue on the outside but I think there was paint on the insides aw well. If that peels instead of burning off, I may get blockage at my new cat. I plan to run them hot for a couple weeks then drop the cat and blow it out just to be sure. My crossover pipe has no interference issues and had a flange to bolt directly to a replacement intermediate pipe. I had to bend the muffler mount a bit to get the right fit and my EGR tube would not line up. A torch and a little bending took care of that easily.

still no leaks and running a little better (though all my radio stations are now gone). It still smells of burning paint and I need to run it at full temp for a few runs back and forth to work before that'll stop. I want to shield the oil and fuel lines before I do that though. Next up... a new pair of BFG AT TA/KO's to replace the racing slicks I currently have on it.

permatex spray

I sprayed the gaskets with a hi-tack, hi-temp permatex spray to hiold it all in place and help seal it. Will a battery disconnect perform the same function ans an ECU unplug? I know my radio has a 'memory' when it gets unplugged but did not know if the ECU does.

finishing touches... I used one of the spare holes in each of the heads to run in a stud from the exhaust manifold. Threaded on a nut, bored out the ground wire connector so they would fit on the studs then locked it onto the studs with another nut. I now have both ground connectors reattached to the heads. I filled the crankcase and added some Lucas additive (about 5 qts total due to the added hoses and filter). When I fired up the engine, it roared to life but started dripping oil from the adapter plate for the relo kit that was on the block. Damnit. The only way to get at it to tighten it was to pull the starter (good thing I modified it to come out easy). I got another 1/8 to 1/4 turn on it, replaced the starter and cranked it up again. No leaks. I ran it to temperature and watched the smoke billow out from under the hood. Stickers, PB Blaster and paint all getting hot and burning off the headers. I'm concerned that the oil filter hoses are too close to the header so I may fashion a heat shield or use an insulative wrap. It runs a little rough but I think that is due to the O2 sensor being bombarded with burning paint fumes and such from the new install. A couple days and she should be fine.

Getting ready for header installation. Not much room to work through the wheel well on the passenger side. Discovered that the leftmost stud had been replaced with a larger one at some point. This was a replacement engine so I had nothing to do with it. Since the thread was now different and my bolts wouldn't fit, I decided to put the stud back. It bigger than the stock ones so I thought it would be strong enough. Unfortunately, as I tightened the bolt on it and tried to go to the proper torque, I felt it start to strip in the aluminum head so I stopped and will just cross my fingers and hope it's ok as is. final location of relo kit.

The result of grinding, drilling, praying and cussing... new pressure switch and filter relo adapter. Not sure if the threads were just tight or if I had a mismatch british to english thread count but I wrenched it on and got it tight to the block. With each turn, I expected to hear a "crack" but it survived. Will check for leaks later today. Bracket I made from an old galvanized 4x4 post holder. Had to cut the top off the connector holder to make it fit inside but it adds a little support to the bracket. A little constructive aluminum bending... viola'... a drip tray to keep the oil off my connectors when I change the filters