k9sar

you mounted it BEHIND the radiator? Are you sure your fan will clear it? Mine is installed on the front.

mine caught fire. fixed with cookie sheet and hot-pads.

throw the bolt in a baggie and label it. next time you are in there (if your WP fails etc), you will at least have the bolt available. Of course, if you are like me and put it someplace clever that you're sure you will remember... well... let's just say that I have replaced several items that I had placed somewhere clever. Oh well. Carry-on. Get that monster back together

play nicely, kids

yea... been there a few times. It never fails that when I throuw a little gasket tack on the thing and install it, the holes don't quite line up. I got to the point where I just put a couple bolts through (includign that one) to hold the gasket in place as I align the waterpump. on one gasket I had, I even had to snip that long skinny part that does nothing but hold the outer edge part of the gasket in the (supposed) proper place. It was off by nearly half the hole opening. You could use a drill bit and just rotate it by hand to cut the paper. A pick may work also to destroy the blockage then just run the bolt into the threads, paper pieces and all. There is enough play around the bolt length to accomodate the gasket pieces so you need not really worry about picking all the parts out. Great job on the thread. You deserve a cigar and a nice shady tree.

and DoctorBill has an excellent thread going which shows the timing belt replacement (as well as other things)

that long bolt should go through the timing cover, through the water pump, through the hole in the gasket and into the block. My guess is that your gasket slipped a bit. You should really try to get this in place as it is one of the bolts that holds your WP in place.

thanks for taking the time to post the solution to your issue. THis will hopefully be helpful to others in the future.

I paid $10 at Harbor Freight. Tore one up. Returned it for exchange then made sure to lube the new ones before use.

I used a MAPP torch on my old engine to remove the tensioner stud. It takes awhile to get the thing hot enough to burn the threadlock (you are fighting with the entire block trying to cool the area). Red-hot would be best (or at least glowing real good). You can heat it, try to remove it, heat it hotter, try again... etc until you get it. I worried about getting my water pump too hot since it is aluminum and I didn't want to melt it (not sure if I could but I shielded it so I didn't take the chance. You may want to do this with the WP removed. You will probably need a stud-puller. Even with the threadlock torched, it was still gooey and trying to hang on as I removed it. I wouldn't trust the 2-nut method. I tried that first and ripped the threads off the stud. Sicne it is throw-away, you could flat-spot alternate sides of the shaft and get a wrench on it. That would probaly work even better than the stud puller. I did not use this option since I had planned to use the one from my old engine as a replacement. As for a different stud... You saw my solution. You could do the same but use a bolt with the right thread pitch for the block. (a class 8.8 M10x1.5 hex head bolt with a lock washer)

I always suggest to check the connector ont he top of the MAF. It's a known weak spot on the WD21's. Pull the connector, make sure it's dry inside, put it back together, start it up. If she runs fine, that was your problem. If not, wiggle/flex the wire and connector on top to see if it makes a difference.

funny you should ask... link

I pulled mine open the other evening... finally. Had been getting that burning smell so I was a bit concerned at what I would find. Pulled the resistor pack out and took a look inside. A few small bits of leaf and other assorted matter but nothing of any quantity. Then I looked at the resistors. Inside the 'cage' was a single maple tree seed that was charred black. I shook it out and put everything back together. The wife is happy that she can use the AC now when she takes the pathy. It's almost 90 and very humid today.

went back and read this thread since I had pointed someone to it. It's almost 3 years since my poor-man's lift and the only think I've destroyed is a CV joint and that was not due ot the angle, just my horsing it down a trail. Guess reindexing the t-bars is fine with my ball joints.

you might consider not trying to take the tensioner stud out. It's put in with threadlock and it's a bitch to remove (expecially after it's broken off). If you want to remove it, torch the block around the threads to burn the threadlock and release the stud.

There is a really good thread about this. Typically, the JGC front springs (from a V8) will work with a little modification. You need to look at the overall length, coil diameter and wire diameter. Length and coil are probably pretty common but check the wire diameter. If I can find the post, I'll link you to it. spring info My lift using JGC springs

You could try the marine fan supercharger option (lol) no... all that sh!t is snakeoil. Vortex, fuel line magnets, etc. I have heard of tweaking the timing or perhaps there is a reprogramming of the ECU but nothing I have seen that is really useful. Look for simple solutions... lessen drag (good fresh oil), increase air availability (better intake and/or filter), reduce backpressure (hi-flow cat, headers, bigger pipes), better spark and combustion (plugs, wires, better gas) etc. My opinion.

One thing that really bothers me is when someone posts a problem, we make suggestions or help them figure it out but they never see fit to come back and post the solution. I see this way too much in other forums as well. I agree with the closure on each thread (except poho). The result of a search that leads you to a thread should also lead you to a solution not just back into the void of 'search for it'. Thank you for posting the link that you found useful as a solution. (now for my shameless pulg) If you take the time to document your fix and maybe even include pictures, please start a new thread with a name like "How to ..." and perhaps the admins will pin it. As for being sorry... don't be. That stupid tailgate latch is the strangest thing I have seen in awhile. I sure as heck would not have designed it that way. It is only due to my disassembly and investigation when I had the problem that I learned the stupid mechanism inside.

The initial response from many folks is that "it's not a new problem and has been covered many times. search and you should find". THis is becuase we get lots of folks who don't bother to search and just jump in and ask questions. If you ask a question that has been addressed many times, it will appear as though you did not do any groundwork yourself. If you search and did not come up wiht the answer, it's best to put that info in your post and most likely we will either provide the info directly (which is sometimes easier than searching) or provide the link. In some cases, a problem can manifest itself in many ways... alarm won't set, lights flicker, open door indicator... etc. The first response is usually to let you know what the source of the symptom is and give you an idea of what to search for. We don't try to be difficult (well... many of us don't) but we do expect some level of self help. with that said... If you can't find what you are looking for, please feel free to repost and we'll do our best to assist you.

three basic solutions will probably be found... 1. latch relocation... this involves washers and a little trimming of the plastic 2. disconenct the wire so the hatch always thinks it's closed 3. wrap some electrical tape around the catch to help shove the slide switch in the hatch upward sicne the rubber on it has dried and shrunk

One of the easiest ways is to pop the distributer cap and look at the rotor as you crank it by hand to set the piston to TDC. At the same time, pull plug 1 and insert a long screwdriver (carefully) so you can watch the piston rise and fall as you hand crank the engine. What I would recommend is that you start stripping into it to get to the timing belt and don't worry about setting TDC until you get the top timing cover off. At that point, you can use the cam markings as reference as well and do both steps at once. As long as you don't pull the belt yet, there should be no issue getting it set to TDC. There are some people who do not even set to TDC. They simply place marks on teh rear cover and the cams and count belt teeth to make sure the spacing is correct but I do not recommend that to first timers. no. tehy are not contradictory. When at TDC, the cam marks and the crank marks should line up to their respective indicators. Problem is that sometimes the indicators are difficult to see (a dimple on the rear cover). Get as close to TDC as you can, set your cam marks to 1:00 on the right and 11:00 on the left (approximate). Put your own marks (white out, paint, etc) on the back cover so you know where things go just in case the cams decide to slip to a more stable location. Also, mark your old belt and compare against any markings on your new belt. Usually the t-belts have lines on them but my last 2 had arrows going the wrong direction and the lines were not quite right. Once youa re at TDC and pull the balancer and the lower cover, it is easy to put the new belt up against the old while it is still on and check for alignment. They will if you screw around with them but TDC is relatively stable. Using marks and counting the teeth upon installation is your best bet to make sure things didn't slip unexpectedly. Also, once you pluu the old eblt, you will be putting the new one on shortly so you will see of the cams move at all yes. Once you have the accessory belts off and the plugs out, you should be able to easily turn the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt. A little trick to loosen the bolt holding on the harmonic balancer if you don't have a special tool to hold it... put a socket or wrench on the bolt (28mm?... I forget) and a pipe or something over the wrench. You could also use a jack to hold the end of the wrench. Position the wrench so it extends towards the drivers side and get it caught on either the frame, ground ro a jack. Basically, you are going to keep the wrench from turning clockwise (as you look at the engine). Disconnect your coil (for safety) and turn your key to start for a second or two. This will use the torque of the starter to turn the engine and the wrench being held will break loose the bolt. Don't worry about TDC because you will not have played that game yet. Get the bolt loose and even if you need to use use it to turn the engine by hand, it won't be nearly as tight and you should be able to loosen it again by clampign the t-belt or holdign the HB with a strap wrench (or put a screwdriver through the cam hole and brace that way. This is one reason I never care about TDC and just mark things before I pull the belt. That way, it doesn't matter fi I'm off TDC when I break the bolt loose. was that English? Sorry... not catching the question and you may be thinking too much for a fairly straightforward repair this may help as well Service Manual The 94 is sufficient for this job. No many changes were rolled out for the 95 but I have the 94 update and 95 suppliment if you need.

I don't think there is a relay for the washer pumps. They don't draw much current. If I remember my wiring correctly, teh little motors ground back through the wiring harness as opposed to the groundign through the casing or a ground strap. If you are checking voltage by probing the hot lead to a body ground, it could still be the ground wire in the harness.

1994 FSM zip file perhaps this will help

the only sure way to tell if the pump is good is to pull it and actually throw power to it with clip leads or something. Mine just stopped working (I don't even hear a buzz) but I haven't tried to fix it. My last failure was for the rear pump. Turns out the connection was bad (measured power on plug and clip leads made it work) Other failure was a leaky lower pump so I grabbed a full unit from a JY. I probably have one that works or at lease enough spare parts to rebuild one.

my first tranny failure was exactly as you describe. Reverse was the first to go but FWD gears were fine. The tranny shop who worked on it told me that reverse requires a higher line pressure and he suspected my pump was going bad. Sure enough, the pump had failed and smoked the reverse gear which subsequently ate the planetary assembly. I fear that you are on the brink of a catestrophic failure and would get it torn into ASAP.