Precise1

That is the front sway bar and it looks like the the drivers side clamp has broken in the back, probably rusted through. If this is the case, a new bushing will not help as nothing will hold it. Its not really a big deal so tackle the other things first. Do look at and feel the clamp though so you know why it is like that. And damn, do something about those photos, it like a yak spat on them or something!!! B Oh, the coolant drain plug is on the drivers side bottom, on the engine bay side, way in the corner and only about 1" long. It is a pain to get at if you have big hands so use pliers or something appropriate.

Can't you get those fuel treatments, and do you mean starter fluid, not brake cleaner?? Glad you are getting some response... B

Howdy!! Welcome to NPORA and thanks WheatBreat!! You shouldn't have to step on the gas at all to start the truck if everything is in order. I may not answer your questions, but I'm going to get you started... First, check the ECU under the passenger seat for fault codes. The write up on how to do it is in the Garage/How To section and is not hard to do. This may give you valuable insight and it is free. I would guess that it has something to do with fuel, be it pressure, leaking injectors or something like that but that is just a hunch. I'm going to pass on electrical advice, that is not my strong point. Do yuo want an Owners manual or Factory Service manual?? The Service manual for a 1994 on is available for download. Look in the Garage section, pinned at the top. This might also give you a specific trouble shooting guide also so I recommend you get a copy. The differences between 90 and 94 is the dash, some trim and lights and that is about it so the 1994 FSM should serve you well for 90% of the truck. Sorry, there is no digitized copy of the 1990 manual that I know of. If you want an owners manual, I believe someone was selling one in the classifieds section (can't remember what year) otherwise try ebay?? B

So, has anyone owned or checked these out? Maybe not this exact unit but the compact, self contained HID lights?? http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lights-Lighting-Accessories/Optilux-4-inch-HID-Driving-Lamp.aspx?t_c=14&t_s=448&t_pt=101014&t_pl=101945&t_pn=HLAH71020171 I need 2 more smaller lights for the top of my ARB and I think these would do a good job. I also like the price and don't like to have expensive lights on my truck (I've had them stolen before). Any input is welcome!! B

I was going to have Costco order tires for me (BFG MT KM2) but it would have taken months with no definite delivery date. I went with Americas tire co (www.discounttire.com) for the same price and in stock. $10 or $15 per tire for mount, balance, valve stem with life time balance and rotation, free road hazard repair. I opted for the extended warranty so if I blow one out on a piece of rebar off road, it is still covered. If there is one near you, check them out; the on line calculator is correct to the penny also... B

I highly recommend going with fittings that terminate in barbed hose fittings. Much easier to deal with and perfectly suitable. That way you don't have to mess with hard tubing which can be a pain to do right if you aren't used to it. Look at my tranny temp gage thread in the 90-95 section or let me know if you need any more info... Congrats on doing this BTW, but that isn't an electrical sender is it? Too bad, it's by far the best way to go. B

Contacts and wiring, just something you will have to chase. Start at the light and go back to to see where the power stops... B

Thanks for the tip. My steering box needs some help and I've been wondering how to deal with it. Perhaps I won't, they will So, what was your cost?? BTW, x2 on the pitman arm puller. Even using one, I was unable to remove my pitman arm though... B

Yes, you will probably need a puller to break it free. There are 6 (8?) bolts in the harmonic ballancer, 6mm IIRC, so pull two and use those for the puller. Just don't loose them as you will need to reinstall them. You will probably have more trouble with the crank bolt than the pulley though. B

I've been advised by a Nissan/Infinity mechanic that Dextron3/Mercon is perfectly adequate. It thermal properties are not quite as good as the Nissan D or S fluid (recently changed) but as long as you check it occasionally/change it per recommended interval, it should be a non issue. B

Looks good!! Exactly what I plan to do as sooon as I find one. If I find 2 I'm going to make a custom unit... It looks better without the fairing, especially with the sunroof. For installation, use jack nuts or threaded rivet inserts. All the information on them are in a thread in th 86.5-89 model year section in the thread about.... installing roof racks!! Again, nicely done... B

You got the bits I sent on Tuesday already?? They didn't drill through the extractor?? They will drill through hardened steel!! Did you remember that they are CCW or left handed drills?? If not, check to see if there is a cutting edge left and try again. Those are what I use to remove bolts, taps, dowel pins, etc... B

What, just because it looks like my cat ate the pictures, crapped them out and then they were scanned in?? : Nunya has a good suggestion for the cosmetics. You could also make some sort of screen out of stiff mesh to mask around the light. So, what is it that you installed?? B

Minivans!! They have the taint... Anything else you need to know?? B

Under the passenger seat!! Enjoy... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 B

/\THIS!! Get it to fire, pulling the plugs if necessary but I to bet it is all in the oil pan. Hopefully you don't blow the muffler off of the truck.... Once it starts, shut it off and change the oil/filter, then start it again and proceed. B

If you can get the plastic vent bit back in, you are golden. Just tell people you took out a garden gnome... B

FYI apparently any Hardbody 4x4 can be a shifter donor regardless of motor; it's the same transfer case. B

^that's my understanding. Some people have run them without issues, but are they wearing ball joints faster?? B

What happens is those bushings stop properly supporting the tension rod or what ever it is called. This causes the hole to oval out and the rod to become worn. It will affect steering and stability and eventually break, this takes a long time though. Often the bushings look fine but are really worn so if yours look worn, they have probnably been garbage for a while. Also, the rod is often corroding/rusting under the bushings. I replaced mine with polyurethane rather than stock as I wanted the extra support, mine showed wear at 100k miles!! I recommend you order some bushings and replace them. B

LOL, no. I'll take the second one you find... Thanks though!! B

The universal are splice in style, you have to use your old connector end. Not a problem if you do a good job, but I bought a direct fit NTK O2 sensor for about $45+shipping on ebay... B

Leave it be, that is where it will seal, not much more surface area on the heads . Just don't over torque as it is a small surface area. Something like 14ft-lbs for the Thorleys IIRC. Some permatex copper can't hurt either... B

I would love to have a Hardbody 4x4 transfer case shifter. Haven't found one around here yet... B

I kinda like the bug guard idea, but I wouldn't worry about the dent either. Hell, if you were closer (and it was the same color) I'd swap you the hood off of my parts truck... B