Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Precise1

Moderator
  • Posts

    42,909
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Especially that the motor is stumbling at first, it is taking a moment (and higher rpm) to build pressure. Yeah, it's getting old, but nothing to panic about... B
  2. Yes. Works just fine and is about all most people need. Even if you buy new Superlift upper control arms and xj lift springs, it is not much more than $300 IIRC. I have 3rd hand jeep coils from my old pathy installed, used Rough Country A arms (same as Superlift but painted black and discontinued) and about a 2" lift from cranked T bars. I didn't need to reindex them, but I may have to when the winch goes into the ARB bull bar. B
  3. I think a 2" lift is a big help with clearance and access. B
  4. The difference is a 3. This has been discussed quite a bit, everything from putting a VG33 into a 87-95 to swapping heads, cylinders, cam and any combination. I'm just not interested enough right now to search for the threads... B
  5. CCW carbide spade drills sent. B
  6. Yeah, I have used it a time or two with the local Autozone. I have most of what I need, but it is nice to know you can go 'borrow' the odd occasional item. B
  7. Impressive!! I'm glad you have your truck back. B
  8. Is it selecting the gears and not moving or is it not going into gear? Gear selector cable issues?? Are you positive the new tranny functions properly? Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual (pinned in the garage section), it has a major autotranny trouble shooting section... B
  9. Yes, but I have to believe you like the lavender trimmed White Owl more than doing a hack job like that. Something like this isn't hard or expensive to do right... B
  10. Thanks for posting that Nige, I cover the other one... And here is the all you could want to know about Jacknuts page... http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/jacknut.asp It's really the same as a dry wall insert but for sheet metal. Just drill a hole slightly larger than the jack nut body, put it in the hole, put a bolt into it, hold the jack nut in place, not rotating, by the colar (I plan to use pliers) and tighten the bolt intil the jack nut flares out, grips the sheet metal and doesn't rotate. B
  11. Exactly, 4" fits fine. I think that is your only option with the Cragar Soft 8 rims in 15x8". Also, I determined that Pacer also has the identical rims (made at the same factory, same factory item number) so if you can get those cheaper, go for it. B
  12. Like Pezzy said, same truck?? Did they weld on a section from a donor truck?? B
  13. First, drill counter clockwise when ever possible, it's worth the drills if you can get them locally/reasonably. I understand the extension you propose but it will run out like a mother, making it almost useless. Better to buy a Harbor Freight right angle drill type thing. I can make left hand carbide spade bits in almost any size that will make short work of this. 8mm-1.25 thread= 6.75mm minor diameter. A 5.5-6mm drill will do it depending how good you are. Let me know, but I can make the drills and ship them in 2 days. I owe you, you sent me my FSM, even if I lost it... B
  14. I have a project 78 VW Bug Convertible that has the accident history and I am fighting the same issue. My last effort was to install a strut tower brace worthy of NASCAR. Haven't tested it yet so I'm sorry, I don't have an answer but seek as you do. B
  15. I wouldn't buy from a place that has a no return for any reason policy, but then I'm a cantankerous bastage. Have you checked out the For Sale section?? You may be able to find one there?? B
  16. That is the trouble area. You just have to check the contects/wires and move on down the line if that doesn't do it. I hate electrical issues that are not the 'stopped working' kind... B
  17. BAD NUNYA!!! No hack job or no rails!!! Ehem... The riveted threaded inserts are ideal, but jack nuts should work as well and be cheaper if you do not have access to a rivet gun. IIRC, the 1/4-20TPI Jack Nuts, which are the appropriate size, are rated at 250 (280??)lbs each and should grip a larger diameter than a riveted nut. I have a full set I bought at Napa Auto Parts of all places, and they are plastic coated which helps them seal but I would still use RTV judicially. B
  18. No, I just wanted to post some options (make/model) for people to consider. There aren't many people running inline filters and it seems to be a good idea with our trannys. I went with the Summit item, it was $45 delivered and I rigged up a custom sensor mount on the inline filter inlet. Like beastpath says, I hope it lasts. Headpeas, the air is purged back into the tranny and then is vented. The auto tranny is not a sealed unit IIRC... B
  19. I got 5 of them delivered to my door for $212??? As was said, cheap, reliable, replacable... 8" rims will run 10.5" tires regardless of diameter but always check for the manufacturer's recommended rim sizes, there are differences... B
  20. LOL Considering it can easily pull your pathy up a cliff, it's actually fairly small... *has one 2 in the garage* B
  21. Depends, are you talking about 33x10.5" or 33x12.5". A very crude rule of thumb is a rim 2-4" smaller than the high flotation tire width. IE 31x10.5 and 33x10.5 tires fit well on 8" rims, but 8" rims can also mount 33x12.5. A 7 inch rim would be ill advised for 33x12.5... That said, in the Product Review section there is an unofficial tire review thread, and on one of the last pages I posted a link to a tire review site that lists almost every truck tire worth buying. Every tire will have a rim width range, so go look at what you have and may use and compare. B
  22. No problem, just pointing it out. As for 2 VS 4wd, I don't know that it makes a difference but I would avoid crossing them without positive knowledge. B
  23. Sorry, I didn't read your link but I have done this many times so, read this if you wish... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038 What I would do is hold both nuts on the top side, turning the lower righty-tighty (it is not welded in place) and the upper one lefty-loosy. Be careful you don't harm yourself when they let go either. When they do, have a wrench on the lower nut and adjusting bolt and turn either one which ever direction you need to go. A couple of turns will make a fair difference, so sneak up on it. Some people say you should jack the vehicle up, but that unloads the suspension, creates the sag effect and is unnecessary work. Put a little muscle into it and it works fine on the ground. Giving the nut and bolt head contact some oil always helps things... Oh, the top nut would be turning clockwise to loosen if you were underneath, looking up. B
  24. Yes, an E or an S or as GrimGreg would say, the sticker... Let me see if I can find the thread for you. B
  25. I answered you in your intro thread, but essentially, yes, I believe it should work fine. Get as close to the same year as possible, mind if it is 49 or 50 state unit and match up auto or manual trannys (an auto ECU can be used for a manual though). I don't know if it matters, but I wouldn't mix 2 and 4 wheel drive ecus, too much else is different. B
×
×
  • Create New...