Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Precise1

Moderator
  • Posts

    42,909
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Yeah, 15 for the MPFIV6 and I seem to recall 12 for the TBIV6... B
  2. I'll let you know when I figure it out. Mine only changes 2-3 degrees, but enough to be clearly seen and to make it hard to time. I can't bellieve it is normal function... Been waiting for a break in the rain to check a few things out. B
  3. I'm kind of suprised no one wants an 'at cost' cat back system. If I was in the area and didn't already have a custom exhaust, I'd be all over it!! B
  4. LOL sounds like you want an upgrade, your pathy should be perfectly reliable after those repairs... Leather seats weren't my concern when I was in college. My, how things have changed!! B
  5. Yes, that said, 95... What is wrong with your 97?? Why does it need replacing? What will you use it (new or old) for?? Does price matter? These are what determines the best, not some arbitrary year or trim level... B
  6. Well, if you were driving when it broke, odds are any damage is already done and odds are that the valves (at least) are damaged. Buy a timing belt and install it and see if it fires. Depending from there, do a compression check or just pull the heads or throw in the towel. Sorry to hear though, how many miles since the last time it was changed? B
  7. Sounds to me like your key and or the tumblers are worn. You'll have to replace one and/or the other eventually but some lubricant in the ignition cylinder may help. B
  8. Fair enough, I suppose first and reverse is all that really matters... Yours isn't the RR4R01A, is it?? I have the repair manual for one sitting on my desk. Interestingly enough it says Mazda/Nissan so I wonder if/what Mazdas can be donors?? B
  9. Crap, I didn't know they cost that much!! Yeah, look for a used dolly. A co-worker bought one for 3 or $400 as that was what renting one would cost when he moved from Az to Ca. See how much a 1 way rental would be also... B
  10. You won't have much more usable space on the car trailer anyway so I don't see that as a win. Dolly VS towbar: I assume there is no drawback to the towbar other than racking up the miles?? If so, I'd use a tow bar (probably cheaper) and put a roof rack on the Honda so you can strap crap, or even a roof carrier, to it... B
  11. I believe you are correct. Also, 4 wheel parts has both the Mile Marker Nissan hubs (430,435) on sale for $81.89 a set with free shipping if you order on line and pick up at a local store. That's the best price I can find, but it only lasts for a few days... B
  12. Mile Marker Supreme Chrome 86.5-89 Pathfinder: PN-430, BS-6x3.260", 27 spline/1.094" OD Mile Marker Supreme Chrome 90-01 Pathfinder: PN-435, BS-6x3.260", 28 spline/1.143" OD Warn Premium: Vehicle-----------------------------------------------Spline-----PN----Service kit PN Pickup '84-86.5.................................................26.......29087...29061 Pickup, Pathfinder '86.5-89...............................27.......28739...29061 Pickup, 4 cylinder '90-93...................................27.......28739...29061 Pickup (incl. Frontier), 4 cyl '94-01....................28.......29091...29061 Pickup (incl. Frontier), Pathfinder, 6 cyl '90-01..28.......29091...29061 Xterra '00...........................................................28.......29091...29061 Added vehicles cross fitment. Feel free to add in any other pertinent information including the 6 cylinder hardbody manual locking hubs. Thanks. B
  13. There is a write up on how to clean the MAF in the garage section, then search for vacuum leaks both visibly and with a flammable aerosol such as WD-40 or carb cleaner or some such, just be careful and wear safety glasses. You may want to check for proper EGR function also... B
  14. And as long as the auto tranny worked... I've never wheeled an auto, but my new pathy has one so we'll see how it goes. By default, I prefer the inherent control of a manual. B
  15. Did you put the thermostat in the right way? Do you have flow through the radiator? Burp the cooling system also... B
  16. 96-01 Pathfinders Earlier X-terras Earlier Frontiers Sorry, I can't be more accurate than that. I did say 1-2 depending... Best thing is to go with lighter rims and smaller tires with a smooth rolling tread, a cat back system and some sort of aftermarket air filter for the best gas mileage. You may get more than 20mpg that way. My 95xe with 31" ATs on it got 21+ mpg one trip... B
  17. Under the rear seats and the rear wheelwells is what needs attention, that is where almost all of my road noise comes from... B
  18. That would have been nice last time I went. I found a good tranny cooler (full sized, after market) on a pathy and also yanked a small stock one off of some american car, literally 3x10". They charged me the same for both!! I paid too much for an efan that I grabbed also, but oh well, live and learn. This will let me click and learn... B
  19. No such thing. 15 ", yes... Well, I'm older and have a different perspective, but I'd go and get my damn car back. Go with a key, a car dolly, a buddy and a truck and take it. Fixing it won't be hard, but don't let people dick you around in life son, it's a bad habit for everyone involved. We'll help you get it fixed from there... B
  20. Who's your daddy??

    Sorry, just a joke. I'm harmless but curious now. Good luck in finding him, let us know if we can help... ;)

    B

  21. About 10 hp and 1-2 MPG, all things dependent. Other consideration is the AIV valve rusting out, the mixture heater failing, something with the EGR valve IIRC and no snorkels available. They are also harder to get to pass stringent smog laws... If they were terrible, they wouldn't still be on the road but I have to say, given a choice, I would not choose TBI... B
  22. Ok, does the pedal move at all on it's hinge? Any freeplay what so ever, just to show that the pedal its self is not frozen?? Next, check out the slave cylinder. Does it look (hyper)extended? Is the actuation fork in the right position? Put a line on the bleeding nipple of the slave cylinder as if you were going to bleed it, and then open the valve. Does any fluid come out? How much? Leave it open and see if you can now depress the clutch pedal (be gentle). If the pedal won't move, it has to be the pedal hinge, linkage or MC binding (unless the dampener in the passenger firewall is clogged or something. Never heard of that). If the pedal does move readily, the issue is with the slave cylinder, actuation fork or inside the bell housing. This should all be pretty easy to do so let us know what you learn. B
  23. Yes, how is it stuck, in what position? It could be the MC, slave cylinder, pedal linkage or even an issue inside the bell housing. Just give more info and we can track it down. B
  24. Sorry, I must not be awake yet. I was talking for the WD21s... B
×
×
  • Create New...