Precise1

Damn, sorry to hear. Do you have disk or drum rear? If it is disk, at least it is not hard to remove the caliper so you can work on it inside. If it is drum, you may just want to buy a wheel cylinder to save yourself too much trouble. You can usually squeeze it in without taking off the whole brake shoe assembly, just releasing the springs. Otherwise easy out is your next option... B

Men, do you find that your braking is occasionally soft and unresponsive? You need our new Firmal suppliment... Sorry, couldn't help it. I'm going with the MC or a brake line. You either have a leak, MC blow by or bubbles in the lines or a seperated line that bubbles when you step on the pedal. It's not unheard of and is rarely checked for. It only takes a few minutes with someones assistance... B

Change the light bulb or just ignore it. You'll know when you are in 4x4... B

I'm certified!!! B

Fog lights are for sale in the classifieds and I have some stock 95 pathy bumper mounts that are straight. Just saying... Looks drivable and with some new lights it won't be as noticeable... B

I haven't the slightest idea. Buy them and tell us if they work!! B

I haven't compared 2 and 4 door roof racks but I would assume they have the same basic foot print. You can install any rack that fits, not just from a pathy. Line it up, drill holes, rivet in threaded inserts (or just jack nuts) and bolt it up. I'm guessing that they switched from rivets to threaded inserts so removal/repair was possible. Riveting on a roof rack seems questionable. B

LOL good job and thanks for the warning. I'll be prepared if I ever have to go there... B

That is not stumbling at all. Both mine will fire, run as 1200 RPM+ for 10 seconds, splutter at 800 rpm for 5 seconds then pick back up and run fine. Why?? I do not know... It's probably the back hatch, but don't take that as gospel. Each door has a plunger switch. Have someone hold each one in, one at a time and you will have your answer within 2 minutes... As for the flooding/dying, I do not know other than stepping on the pedal should not be required. Once it dies, let it sit 15 seconds and try again without touching the gas pedal. Fuel filter perhaps?? Have you checked the ECU codes?? (free and easy.... ) B

It has been done and adapters were made at some point, but I would not call it easy and good luck on finding one. While power is a complaint there are quite a few SAS'd (or not) rigs running 35"+ tires with the stock power plant. How are they kicking your a$$?? If you are racing, you picked the wrong truck... B

I'm certain it is the exhaust manifold leaking slightly (sounds like a tick). This can be caused by warped manifolds and/or broken exhaust studs. You can ignore it until it doesn't go away when it is warmed up, at which point it should be addressed. My first pathy did this and I ignored it for 2 years, after which it went away by its self. B

Yes, it is common and yes, it is probably caused by an exhaust leak fron the flange there. I formed 2 pieces of sheet stainless and sheet metal screwed them in place and together. There are a few threads here about the various fixes people have done... B

Can you use a long hardened bolt?? B

Yes, it sounds like you are developing a vacuum in the cooling system. First, burp it and get as much air out as possible, then check the radiator cap and the coolant resevoir line for clogs. B

Real funny Red!! I quit smoking last summer... B

*sigh* Did the Admins disable the search function again?? Yes, what you read is true. The 3 things to do is install a hard body shifter (different shape and length), heat and bend your existing shifter or notch the floor to make some clearance. B

YOU LIE!! Ok, I'm over it... It all matters how high you crank the torsion bars. 1.5-2" is probably just the manufacturer recommended amount. Have you never exceeded anything like that?? I did a 2" body lift and a 2" suspension lift and run 31" tires with the stock fender flares and I have plenty of clearance. The backspacing of the rims does matter and how you set your steering stops. You should be able to run 33" tires with a 2+3" lift and maybe trim or remove the fender flares. Anyway, you are not talking about a lot of difference... Did that answer your concerns? Do both lifts and buy your 33" tires... B

Honestly, it sounds like a standard pathfinder lift... B

Cool vintage .30 cal!! B

Howie makes a good point, this just happened to a co worker of mine. He had to drive the vehicle for almost 100 miles before it would pass emissions. B

LOL Thanks, that was what I was trying so poorly to say. Here is a basic guide to metric bolts and their standard equivalent... http://www.sizes.com/tools/bolts_metric_standards.htm B

Ok, I'm guessing M10x1.5 then, but it's just a guess. LOL, I guessed where the fastener grade 8 came from, most people do that. 8.8 gets called grade 8 but I believe it is much closer to grade 5. I have a chart around here somewhere that i should post... IIRC Grade 10.9 is slightly less than grade 8 and then there is a grade 12.9 (?) that I have only run into a few times?? Damn, I'm going to have to find that list. B

What ever that means GG. Do not explain. My bad along with others and thanks for the links Nunya. Rjordan, did that answer your questions? I have contemplated doing the same, but with 2 running trucks... Let us know if there is something you don't understand. B

Envy you, I do not... B

*snort* B