Precise1

The job is easy but you need a press (or hammers/drift pins) and a little experience. I'm not sure you need to replace them, but if you do, order the bearings and remove the rotors. Take them to a tire and brake place and ask them to remove the old races and install the new ones. Go home and reinstall everything. Double check in 50 miles. Triple check in 1000 miles. B

Yeah, it looks like arse, Nunya. An old dog scratching it's arse on the carpet!! Ehem. I'm sure that's when it was. 87-93 are the square tooth, 95 has the round tooth; same with the 94... B

Did he replace the studs with the stronger updated units or did he just retorque the old, prone to breaking ones?? B

Remove the medicine ball from the cargo area... Ok, in all seriousness, go look!! Get under the truck and see if there is any play in the drive train. When is the last time you lubed things or changed fluid. Jack up (and properly support) the rear end and check for play again. Start it and see what it does in drive. I can think of play in the U joints, rear end, rear axles, bushings or a combination there of. Sorry but just not enough info to go on yet. B

Nope, for the 95 it is every 105k miles, 87-93 is every 60k. Well, advise him that he either has 50k miles left or he is about to snap it. When is he joining and reading up?? B

Yes, some play is normal so don't worry. To check your wheel bearings, have everything assembles and tight with the wheel mounted. Jack up one side and grab your tire top and bottom. push/pull with opposite hand. If you feel play, your wheel bearings need adjusting or replacing. All 3 of my pathys needed wheel bearing work when I got them. The first just needed a repack and adjustment along with the thrid. The second was a bit crunchy when I tightened them up so i replaced all of them. To me it's one of the standard inspect/adjust/replace items when you first get a car. B

From another thread... B

Huh, who was it then?? Have you not looked around locally?? Leather seats can't be that hard to find... Still, not that bad if you are set on them. B

I shipped 1 seat from Ca to AZ for something like $35. Wasn't it to you?? I could see $100+ for two cross country. It that one box or two?? t might make a significant difference as you will be charged based on volume, not weight. B

Oh, I know your truck runs great, and very good point about getting stuck off road, I feel exactly the same way, even if I don't try to go where you do. K9sar had a tensioner fail, the stud it mounts on I believe... My passenger side cam seal was starting to leak, the only reason I can think of is that is sat for a couple of years. I changed both of them, obviously. I changed all fluids other than the AT fluid 1.5 years/6k miles ago, replaced the wheel bearings and lubed everything at the same time and then again 3 months ago when I rebuilt the front end. I do my PM and always set a baseline when I buy a vehicle. I have to do this to the new R50 but I'm waiting for the rain to stop. Oops, thread jack... B

Yes, as was said, almost all options were available in almost all models with only a few known exceptions. It's both cool and confusing. Crap, sorry to hear that!! At least you two are ok!! I will say that it is very handy to have two same vehicles that you can swap parts for test purposes... B

Ok, sounds like you have a handle on that front damage, I just wanted to make sure. That's why I got rid of my first truck, front frame horn damage and then a botched repair job. It sounds like you are geeting good information/advice so all I can say is good luck and I'm sorry this happened. As for the people knowing where you live, good. Then you can legally shoot them... B

Ok, I forgot that part. Yep, that's the safe way to do it, and the right way if you plan to keep it for a while... :

Oh No!! That was such a beautiful truck, and only 96k?? I would happily harm the thieves. Seriously. Look at the front frame horns, they might be damaged by the twist of the push bar and the damage of the front bumper. It looks like they slid into something, nosed down jumping it or something like that. If the front horns are bent, the IFS will not have the right geometry so make sure this can be properly fixed if it is damaged, trust me. I have no practical advice to add other than $2000 for your truck is absurd, especially with all the aftermarket patrts and without damage assessment. Don't give up and good luck. B Just a thought, post what insurance company and I'll send a letter about what I think of their assessment and that I would never consider them, etc... Maybe others would do the same also... B

LOL The timing belt change interval for that year is every 60k miles or 4(5?) years so you could possibly be 30k miles and 15 years overdue to have it replaced. The other side is it could have been done 20k and 2 years ago. Ask the POs... B

That is along the lines of what I considered... I seem to remember something like that, but it is unusual. B

I'll have to try to dig up what I ordered from Alkorahil. The belts weren't on there but it did include the bypass hose and the rebuild parts for the idler arm. I think it was about $240 to my door. WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COM phone 1-866-742-0297 Rob Lacy Parts Department 1-866-742-0297 1-214-491-6565 Several reasons. 1) If it was your daily driver, not a trail rig you would probably be a little more proactive?? 2) I changed all of that because I do not plan to go back in there for another 100,000 miles. 3) I now have known working spares for everything replaced other than the seals. 4) Everything looks nice and shiney. B

Hey, no problem. Just giving you a heads up, that's all. There is a lot of info here, probably more than you can read. Nice truck BTW!! Looks almost exactly like mine.... Cool!! What IFS mods do you have to go along with those 35's?? You haven't regeared, have you?? How does the motor handle those?? B

Cool, well done FUELER!!! The truck looks good!! When I was shopping for an import SUV, it was pathfinder or 4runner. I had a Nissan that i loved but was willing to consider Toyota. When I realised how much more (sometimes double the cost) the 4runner was than a comparable Pathy, it made the choice easy. 3 Pathy's later I'm sure I made a good choice... First, have your Bud go to the Garage section and download the 95 FSM, then read up on the temp sender for the temp gauge and measure the out put. Then check the continuity of the wires to the gauge. If that checks out, it's the gauge. I have one in the dash of my 95 that I'm parting out... We'll fix your Bud up. The stud has been covered, I found I needed to fix mine due to the annoyance. So, when was his timing belt last changed?? B

Look in the Garage section pinned up top and in the How To section. There is even a list of sources for after market parts... Nothing personal, but this question has been asked 3x a month for about 10 years so we prefer you read the existing information and then ask questions... In short, to run 33" tires, you will need a 3" suspension lift and a 3" body lift, or a sawzall. Let me know if you can't find the info I refered to. B

Interesting, I haven't heard of that brand, but it looks pretty beefy. Too bad about the fitment issues without a 3" body lif though. I don't know what you paid for all the other exhaust work, but that's on top of the $190. I got a set of Thorley headers shipped to my door for $406 and they included a cross over pipe, hardware and gaskets. Bolts right up to the stock midpipe also. It just sounds like you didn't save much $ in the long run, but good job and I'm glad you got it worked out. Does it run any stronger?? B

Yes, like was said, put a rod into the cylinder and crank the motor until it reaches the top and the crank pully mark is in the right place. A wood dowel or plastic rod is ideal for this. Did you ever check to see if the rotor turns yet? B

It is a small but effective bottle jack, but I'm pretty sure it is mechanical. I don't use it much, never had a flat and have floor jacks in the garage. I'll try to remember to take a picture when I get home... B

Just two notes... and Unless I misunderstand, no it only matters when first installed. Due to the different # of teeth, it does not line up again until a certain # of revolutions. That number I do not know... B

You are welcome James, but I'm just passing along what I learned here from others, but then rebuilding my own front end helped too... Since this is a 'problem' area, I went with a poly urethane set from Rugged Rocks for $40 or something. Steeevo (sole proprietor) is a great guy and a member here. Oh, Nunya already covered this... You can but the soft rubber item and I'm sure it will last a long time also. B