Precise1

2 4 doors here with perfect frames so I have no idea what you are talking aboot. Yes, the extra access is great, and not just for people. Nope, I disagree. I would have not bought one. Make both, maybe, just 2 door would have killed sales. I have no problem getting in and out of the back doors what so ever, but then I own a pair of legs... B

When you get to the truck, pull the distributor cap and have her try to start it momentarily. If the rotor spins, the belt is in one piece (but may have jumped), and if it doesn't then the belt of broken. I suggest you proceed from there. I really hope that isn't the case. There is rarely any bebefit to putting off the job, I can think of several people that have had the belt break the week before they 'were going to do it'. Not trying to rag on you, just warn others. Yes, find TDC on #1 cylinder, line every pully up properly then hand crank it many times to make sure nothing contacts... B

If you can change the clutch, you can do the swap. It's a bit more work but not any harder. Someone just did this with a write up lst year. Was it BeastPath?? Search for "tranny swap" and see what you find. Yes, the way to go is with a donor vehicle... B

You are crazy. If the wheel bearings have enough play to do that, the truck would literally handle like the wheels were falling off. Also, regardless of play, even if it did affect the pedal stroke, it couldn't possibly be that much and the brakes would travel farther but then still have correct stopping power at the end of stroke. I think I understand what you are saying, I just don't think it could happen like that. I still don't know what the issue is though... Yes, it could be, but that's not a normal failure mode in my experience. I'd say check that valve, bleed the brakes and see how things are then. B

A decent covered spot is required, preferably in a garage. You don't want to do this in the cold and rain, especially the first time and it may take a few days if you run into a snag. A floor jack is not necessary but an impact gun is handy for the crank bolt. Other than that, it is all wrenches, sockets and screw drivers. Oh, a torque wrench should be used to assemble. Do you have a buddy who's garage you can borrow for a few days? I did this years ago when I had to replace a clutch. B

How much mechanical skill do you have? Do you have a garage or good place to work on it? Do you have a fair selection of tools? Depending on those answers, we may be able to walk you through this without too much trouble... B

Go here and download the appropriate one and then rear up on the brake section. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/ That is what I would have to do to give you a good answer. I have owned a previous model for years but am new to the 96-2004 models. I seem to remember someone mentioning a check valve... B

Oh, I know that, but they don't... B

That really doesn't sound good at all. I don't think changing the fluid will help, but if you do, make sure to replace the filter/pickup unit, clean the pan and bypass the stock cooler that is prone to clogging. There are many threads about them. Honestly, I think you need a tranny shop or a replacement unit. B

Yes, but it is quite often caused by neglect or the damn cooler clogging. Yeah, I have one and I'm doing everything I can to keep it from frying. It's already been rebuilt once... B

I'm guessing something with the master cylinder or vacuum booster but I haven't heard of this problem before. B

Of course not, the more the merrier!! Honestly, if more people installed a tranny temp gauge, they wouldn't have as high a failure rate (provided they are watched and heeded) Mounting a bracket off of the idler arm bolts sounds like a good location and using what is already there. This didn't sound right to me so I looked it up. My Machinist's Handbook says the minimum minor diameter for a 1/8-27 tapered pipe thread is .340" which is an R drill (.339"). The next fractional drill size is 11/32 (.3438") which should be perfectly acceptable. A 5/16 drill would be a bit small, unless there is something I'm missing here. Be careful due to the thin walled condition, you won't have much thread length in cast aluminum to seal off of . B

FYI, I doubt you will need to ream the holes on the Thorley headers, they seemed plenty large to handle 10mm IIRC. B

Did anyone mention to do the chalk test?? It's the only reliable way to figure it out... Perhaps, but honestly, that doesn't mean crap. The top of the tire tells you nothing other than obvious wear patterns. What matters is how the tire behaves at the contact patch. I just need to say that so people don't try to determine proper tire pressure with a ruler. Did anyone mention to do the chalk test?? It's the only reliable way to figure it out... B

There has been at least 1 specific thread on the fuel light, if all trucks have them, why wait so long to fill up, etc. I personally have never seen a low fuel light on my pathy and don't plan to. B

Yep, KP helped me see the light with this approch. Just buy the intake piece and go from there... B

I don't know if I will ever have use for this, but I'm looking forward to hearing how this works for you. Good job!! B

Sorry, my bad, I don't know why I wrote that. I meant to talk about the front crank seal; corrected in post. I went with factory parts as I do want everything to last the full 105k miles until the next change. I know the last factory parts did so I'll stick with them. Alkorahil runs a dealership on line parts department and has really good prices!! Great guy to work with, check out the link to him in the "Services" section. B

He slaughtered a chicken and danced around a bon fire chanting, wearing only a goat's head. You know, just another day in Washington... B

No, I doubt you will find anything good in your area, but it's worth a few minutes effort. Dowser (on his 3rd WD21 now) Only wanted a black manual and bought his in Florida then drove it back to Canada. I'd advise looking out of the rust belt... R50's have their advantages, but hard core wheeling generally isn't one of them without a lot of work. Still, I wouldn't rule one out, we just picked up a 99 and even though it has 150% the miles as my WD21, it rides far nicer, runs smoother, more power, better gas mileage, etc. As for the wheels, it depends on which wheels and what years so the answer is maybe... B

I hear ya, I do that and keep a spare rear axle with me at all times also!! Are you serious?? You drive around with a spare drive shaft?? Damn, that's hard core!! B

Where the hell has he been, anyway?? I guess he doesn't love us anymore... Well, it sucks him being where he needed to do this, but hey, you have to do what you have to do. Besides, look at it this way, that's good NPORA advertising right there!! Anyone perusing that carcass will be interested. Think of it as supplying the parts and then explaining how to install them... Gotta look on the bright side. B

I'll go ahead and say that just drilling it out with a left handed drill (ccw cutting) might have backed it out. I make my own LH carbide spade drills that do duty as bolt removers. 140 degree spade bits that work best in a mill but will hold up and do the job with low speed hand drilling. Good job with the creativity!! B

Damn, pretty good hit. I don't know how hard they are to get used down there, nut here that is an annoyance more than an expensive problem. The real pisser is if you had to swap over the U joints and don't have a press... B

Had this happen to a D720. Ran fine the day before, drove 50 miles to visit a friend and then another 10 miles up a mountain to collect a bed of snow. Barely made it back to the friends house, it was the fuel filter... Gotta have it checked out, not jut swap suspected parts. Has the ECU been checked?? Free and easy, it could help diagnose... B