Precise1

Well, I was close... Thanks for clearing that up, good info. Damn Nissan and their 1/2 year changes! B

^Exactly! I don't think there is much difference in the better/worse category, or at least anything that has been noticed over the years. The real point is ease of installation, and the 2 piece units win hands down there. B

Sorry, I missed those last posts somehow, but I'm glad you got it all sorted out. Sometimes it just takes dinking with it a bit... B

On Board Diagnostics 2 system, all US vehicles 1996+ have it (might be something different for the brand new car though). Basically, there is a port underneath the dash on the drivers side that you plug a reader into. A basic reader will tell you of any stored codes and allow you to clear them, a fancy one will tell you a lot of real time information as well. The stored codes can be very specific as to the fault source, so it is always a good thing to check first. A cheap reader is about $50, and some automotive parts places like Pep Boys (and I think Autozone) will read your codes for you for free in hopes of selling you something, obviously. Go to the Garage section and download a copy of the 2003 Factory Service Manual from the link posted in the pinned thread. Section EC will have a list of all the fault codes along with recommended diagnostic/repair procedures. B

Sounds like a warm engine/closed loop condition. Have you checked the OBD2 system for codes? B

Also known as AC, Automotive Customizers. Quite a standard source for many Nissan owners, B

I think at 320hp (and using it) you are going to start putting a strain on the drive train, or certainly at least the front CVs. I thought the Chebby V6 was a popular swap and fits better? Will that bolt to your trans? B

What does the OBD2 system have to say? B

The download didn't work? B

Are you sure you are getting a good spark at the plugs? Any vacuum leaks? (only considering they might compound the problem) No ECU codes? It doesn't happen often, but sometimes the ECUs fail. Check the connection there, and look for water damage? B

What!?! B

Yes, you need to put something in place of the cup, most people use race bearings. Let me find the threads with that info... No, using the bushing to locate/hold the cup is exactly backwards of what the set up is supposed to do. The bushings are supposed to be held in place and suspend the rod through the hole in the frame so there is no contact and doesn't shift around. B This should help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36792-broken-compression-rod/?do=findComment&comment=697564 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22748-have-you-checked-your-bushings/?do=findComment&comment=404591

You are welcome, and... yes. Sorry, not by cylinder number, all the injectors should be the same color. You'd want an injector for a 1994 Pathfinder VG30E, (blue, black, silver, etc) color code, regardless of what cylinder. B

Jack it up, do the axial play test, then do the preload test as well. You can do this using gravity and weights if you don't have a spring gauge. I'm going to assume you packed the bearings properly... Check the caliper bolts, slide pins as well. Did you lube them? B

Pull the plugs on that side and see if they are getting gas. Quick, cheap and easy... The fuel rails have connecting lines so I'm not sure how only one side would be blocked, but it would be one thing to verify/rule out. Other possibility would be if the timing belt jumped teeth on that cam sprocket so that bank is out of time. When was the last time the timing belt was changed? B

I'm pretty sure Fleurys (a member here) makes spacers as well? B

Sorry, my bad then! I thought all 4 door WD21s at least came with the rear ABS and didn't consider it an option. Maybe it varies per country as well... Then I'd say that your brakes aren't adjusted properly or your shoes are contaminated. I know mine are from a leaking seal... B

The FSM is available for download through nicoclub, the link to them is in a pinned thread at the top of the Garage section. The EC section (Engine Control) has a pretty good diagnostic section, so I recommend just going through it enough to familiarize yourself. Also EC-137 states that the values for the injector should be 10-14 ohms, so that #3 injector is suspect for sure. Another trick would be to run it briefly, then pull the plugs and inspect them. Any plug with a leaking injector should be darker or wet with gas. If the injector connectors are cracked, you have to determine if the injectors are getting a good and consistent signal. Start on the bank that the injectors are easy to get to. Always replace the O-rings if you remove/replace an injector, wet them with gas prior to installation for a little lubrication. It is more likely that any leakage is through the injector, not the O-rings. I'd just start by replacing #3 first rather than replacing all 6. I bought a set of used injectors/fuel rails when one failed on our 1999.0, and only replaced the faulty #1. That was years ago, and still no issues with any of the others (and I have spares now). Also, injectors are color coded (a dab of paint should be visible when you remove the harness connector). Conventional wisdom is to match colors to ensure the same spray pattern, etc. Maybe ask here/in the classifieds section to see if anyone has any spare injectors (once you know you color); I have personally sent a couple out to people. B

The knock sensor is in the valley of the V6, buried under pretty much everything. It is a lot of work to relocate a fairly cheap yet important sensor, so one trick is to disconnect the old one, plug in and relocate the new one somewhere effective and accessible, B

You can easily get to the crank bolt from underneath once you have removed the skid plate. I can't recall if the fan shroud is in the way, but to move it is only 4 bolts IIRC. You don't have to remove the radiator. B

Agreed, angling those corners would make it look better but it seems good structurally. Do you have it set up for foot down winch mounting? B

R3DN1CK, I appreciate the spirit of your post, but that is really the opposite of letting things go... so I hid it. On further review, I just cleaned things up in general... B

Nope, sorry, I've not owned/worked on a VQ35 so I'm not familiar with their stock oil cooler. Hopefully someone who owns one will chime in... B

Have you tried just snugging the valve cover screws first? Gaskets tend to shrink with age, our 1999.0 had oil in the plug wells and dripping on the exhaust manifold when we bought it. It is 4 years and 30k miles later now and still no leaks since I tightened the fasteners. Worth a try... B

Yep, at this point I'd clean it as well as possible and go straight to the UV dye and not screw around; have the source found rather than just part swapping. I'm not sure what those GM guys were doing, but I think I now understand why GMs have a lot of issues. Those mechanics aren't inspiring any confidence... B