Precise1

The timing belt is one of the items I get from the dealership, it's not much more and gives me some peas of mind. 1993 is when they switched from the square tooth to the round tooth design. Will you share the production date of your pathy and which type of belt it has? B

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Definitely looks better! I'm not sure I have that much patience though... B

Well, that sort of worked out. Makes me want to go check/lube mine now... B

Step one would be bleed the brakes. Do you know the last time that was done or the fluid changed? Step two would be to check the brake booster for proper functioning. The process is in the FSM and is fairly easy. B

Pull the #1 plug, insert a wood dowel or something else and rotate the engine until the rotor points to the #1 spark plug cap position and the dowel is at the top of the poston stroke. Ignore the cams if they might be off and make sure the dowel doesn't catch or bind. There should be a better description of this in the Garage/How To section in a 'How to change your timing belt thread'. Holler again if you can't find it or need more info. B

Please don't post identical threads in different areas, it really confuses the input and anyone searching for information. One thread is plenty. Thanks, B (I've deleted the one in the 90-95 section that got no responses)

Try not to use 3rd... Oddly enough, plenty of people drive 150-200k+ with these trannys without issue, then others fail pre-100k. It doesn't seem to be a particular year/model issue, so maybe it is a fluid/maintenance/driving style issue. B

Just put on sunglasses, hold your breath, spray and walk away for a bit... Good call though, I never saw (or read) that. I do use shop procedure for compressed gasses/volitle chemicals though. Eye protection, ventilation and just plain If in doubt, clear out... B

If you don't think well, then don't think often... Nothing will crack. Is it good for the metal? No but this isn't hardened or tempered steel (other than the pin maybe, but that is being replaced). The steel will expand/contract and the weak link is the corrosion which is what he needs to break free. Don't do this with glass parts... B

Good to know1 I like your rigging it with what you had on hand. Good job! I didn't want to try to patch into the sensor so I went with an analog 2" gauge. It fits perfectly in the plastic to the right on the 94-95 models. There is a thread on it and filters as well pinned in this section IIRC... It almost looks factory and doesn't clutter up the dash. B

Adamzan has a good point about thermal shock, but instead of water, I recommend a can of dust-off or what ever brand you like. Hold it upside down and it will stream out frozen liquid, this way you can control and pinpoint what you are cooling (the pin hopefully), not just everything at once. B

Can you get vice grips on the head and keep working it back and forth (even if it doesn't move to try to fatigue the corrosion? Can you use something like a cold chisel (dull hopefully) to put against the OD of the pin at either end as different positions radially so you can rap it with a hammer to try to work it around and loose. This is the sort of thing I'd try to do first, break up the corrosion. Yopu can always cut and weld later if that doesn't work. Do you have any naval jelly around? Where the hell did you get this truck that the pin is so corroded that it's frozen? B

Well, there it is. Good call Trogdor, I never would have gussed that because I'd never heard of it. Well, you need to fix the pathy even if you are going to sell it and you have most of the parts, so that's definitely the way to do it. As for the X, I'd prefer the earlier generations. Then again, since you are a bit long in the tooth, maybe a nice VQ powered R50 is in order... B

As for the wheel bearings, if they don't need changing, save the $100 and trouble. Inspect them, clean and repack, preload properly and see if they are smooth. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (generally). B

Damn Sir, you are brave (or experienced). I only know of a few members who have attempted repairing their own A/T. I see some quality calipers in a picture, so as a machinist I'm guessing you know what you are doing. Thanks much for the pictures and break down! Please keep them coming... As for the editing, we had to change permission parameters to temporary to resolve abuse. I don't see any broken links but if you want something changed or added, PM me with the info and links, and I'll make it happen. FYI, I do have a rebuild manual for the RE4R01A if you need any info, but I suspect you have the information. Also, try clearing your browser history and stored info to see what is actually being displayed. B

Yes, those shocks will work with that kit. The front shocks stay stock length and the rear need to be longer or as long as the lift. You can go cheaper though by buying Jeep springs for the rear, used UCAs and a bushing kit and get the same thing. So happens I have a set of those UCAs for sale... Not trying to talk you out of it though, for one stop shopping, that's not a bad way to go other than I don't know how much lift those springs give. FYI, the WD21 is supposed to be a little nose heavy, so a 3" lift in the rear and a 2" torsion bar crank is quite reasonable. There is some question if the AC UCAs address the BJ angle, but unles you go as high as possible, it shouldn't matter. B

Having a decent place to work makes all the difference in the world. I spent most of my life working in car ports, driveways, and even curbside and frankly, it sucks! I'm fortunate to have a sheetrocked garage that stays between 60 and 80 degrees year round now with my tool boxes right next to me. Only took 25 years to achieve... Hopefully the issue isn't major so the bill won't be too much. Nothing wrong with having others take care of it for you other than the sting of the bill. I know you are as 'frugal' as I am, if not more so. Again, good luck. B

Had it warmed up? You have a heated O2 sensor, so things generally have to be hot to run efficiently. You can check the ECU for fault codes though... (Garage/How To section). Yes, an injector could do that. Try an injector cleaner additive... B

Exactly why our R50 has the center of a brush guard on it. It's totally un-reinforced and made of aluminum so it's useless if not a liability, but people generally look twice and by then it's usually not an issue anymore. The rest of the time, I wish I was driving the WD21 with the winch bumper that I could play bumper cars in and not worry... B

No, when you release the brake pedal, it eases up the pressure on the calipers and obviously, the brake pads as well. They retract slightly and any runout of the rotor (they all have some) will actually kick the pads away as well. This is assuming the slide pins are smooth, clean and lubricated. In all reality, most disk brake systems are just a few hairs away from dragging all the time, it's the pressure of braking that creates the heat. B

Absolutely! Check the MAF wiring/connection for integrity, it is a 'common' problem. It sounds like you did a tune up with rules out the neglect goblins. I highly recommend you check the ECU codes (look in the Garage/How To section also and go from there. I know it is frustrating, but certain things have to be ruled out. For future testing, do you have a multimeter? B

Pretty straight forward with a little bit of work. I'm glad it was that simple. I'm chasing brake problems and it makes me consider just replacing the MC to get it out of the equation. B

Honestly, look at the other side. It might not be convenient, but it is accessable and will make more sense when you see it. One of the 10 commandments of mechanics, only dismantle one side at a time. x3 You should have a selection... B

Yep, it looks like the torsion bars have sagged a bit. Not too bad though, I have seen far worse. Depending on the adjustment left, you might be able to just crank it back up, or check out the 'Re-indexing your torsion bars thread' in the Garage/How To section. The 30x9.5 is a moderately common size, and the smallest of the 'high flotation' tires geared towards offroad and airing down. They are always called out by their diameter X tread width. 235/75/15 is the 'metric' version of tire sizing, 235 being the width in mm (25.4 per inch)/75 being the percentage of width that is the sidewall height/15 is the rim diameter in inches. As Trogdor said, you have an inbetween size for now (235/75/15 are generally 29x9" tires). It should say 31x10.5" on the door plate, but they don't seem to stick out much at all. Honestly, for now I'd just try to find a used spare. What type of tire are they? If they aren't at least A/T tires they might not be good enough for your hunting trips. B Oh, congrats BTW, I'm glad you got what you wanted! It looks pretty clean. Now, go check out the 'Transmission cooler' threads...