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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Howdy, congrats on scoring the pathy cheap! #2) Best bet is to buy the parts used where ever you can (sometimes available here), go to a wrecker for it or buy a wrecked pathy, pick the parts you want and sell/ditch the rest. #5) Nope, not cheap. I spent some time in a junkyard practicing removing those pieces for when I find a good set. I think I'll have to make a tool, but it's not hard for some bits and others will never come off in one piece. B
  2. I'm pretty sure I have seen the same thing for I phones as well, but I can't point you to the actual product. Any cheap OBD2 reader that can clear the codes as well will do, whatever they have at the local autoparts store for $30 should be fine. I tent to avoid HF products, especially electronics, but I do gave their multimeter (free) and it seems to work fine. Regardless, get the actual code (not an interpretation), write it down, download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from the pinned thread in the Garage section, read the section for that code and follow the diagnostic/repair/replace preocedures listed. B
  3. I'd almost go straight for an aftermarket external tire carrier for the X. By the time you have modified and mounted the Pathy version, it's bound to cost a bit and who knows if it looks right. The aftermarket bumper/tire carrier also have the benefit of putting the weight on the bumper/frame instead of on the body. My carrier opens up quite easily and does not rattle in the slightest so there are no cons to me. I think putting the tire inside is stupid, and underneath is a pain and compromises your clearance, actually putting the tire in danger. An external carrier can also be handy to mount various other things as well. I haven't towed with the pathy so I don't know how much it can interfere with opening the hatch, but that seems pretty close. I suspect the carrier could easily be modified for maximum clearance. B
  4. Almost looks like it is going from the inside out... B
  5. Oh crap! $500!?! Ok, now I'm going to have to get a quote so I know. I used to deal with platers (nickel, copper, gold) and anodizers, etc all the time... B
  6. I will install no gauge before it's time... B
  7. I'd have to lean towards maniacally... I'm trying to determine if my ceiling is strong enough for me to mount my 1000lb chain hoist. All I would use it for would be the occasional ARB or motor or what not so 500lbs should be plenty. I broke the lug nuts loose and put the rear axle on jack stands. Pretty easy now that I can get around it. B
  8. I grabbed the bull bar and tugged it about while screaming. B
  9. Getting some pipes dipped would be a lot charge, $120 a decade or 2 ago here. Not sure now, but it can't be too much more. From what is out there, the Thorley headers are the best bet. They have good quality, design manufacture and warranty and there aren't many options so it is easy to decide... B
  10. Interesting, I have not seen that before, but I don't need a 12v power block. I'm assuming iy's mainly for the ham gear? (other than the usb) B
  11. I have to agree, it sounds like they weren't clocked and installed the same. It might take a try or two to find out the right orientation, but it shouldn't cost anything but time. Ideally, you want your ride height at the desired height and the bottom of the adjusters should be flush or recessed in the cross member. Oiling the threads on the adjustment bolt should keep it from galling as well. Here is a write up on the subject. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/ B
  12. One bar is out, the other is rusted into the adjuster, and you can/have dropped the T-bar cross member. Have you loosened the 3 bolts holding the front socket in place? This is what I had to do to pull the bar out. You will still have to deal with the rusted adjuster, but at least it will be on a bench to work on. Also, WD40 doesn't really do much to free rusted components. Proper penetrating oil/slovents, heat and cold and BFH are usually required. B
  13. True, but only if he uses the cams/gears too, not just the heads. B
  14. Yep, good sleuthing. It all lines up and the same IP address pretty much proves it in court. What gives Garrett? B
  15. I thought it was going to be 9.5:1? What did you do differently? What happened to the VG30? B
  16. Ever consider putting those little plastic trim connectors into the holes to plug them? B
  17. Do you mean more cigarette lighter ports? Any problem with installing a 110v inverter? Mine also has a usb port; I could probably put a splitter on, so 1/2 way there... B
  18. Does the hood close? Yes, please share more... B
  19. Cool, it looks great. Thanks for the description and pictures. GAK! $400 for a plastic tube and a snorkel hat! B
  20. Glad it fixed it fairly easily and cheaply. Thanks for the pictures as well, they are always good to have. B
  21. Fix the Pathy? It's been years... Weak spark? How are the plugs and wires? Hopefully the coil isn't failing. When checking the battery, clean all contacts, terminals both positive and negative, all the way down to body/chassis contact. Running rich? O2 sensor? MAF? Do 95 Jeeps have OBD systems that can be checked? B
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