Kingman

You can run a rack and pinion set up from a GM full size truck, it ifts almost perfectly into where the factory Nissan steering set up is.

The sensor will cause stalling, dumping so much fuel into the engine that it floods it completely. I've had that sensor go out intermittently on my old '87, it would barely run and die. Some days it would be fine and then all of a sudden it would go nuts. It was showing 120 ohms of resistance.

'87 250k '88 186k

It's right next to the power steering fluid reservoir. You'll see a clamp that's holding a cylinder with black fuel lines going in and out.

Not sure about the brand of fluid, but make sure you use DOT 4. It's compatible with DOT 3 but provides a much higher boiling point and absorbs much less moisture, therefore providing better brake feel/pressure and prolonging the longevity of everything.

I wouldn't even bother with that, the factory coolers are prone to clogging at any point and a single aftermarket cooler is the simplest and most reliable way to make sure your transmission stays cool and largely problem free.

If I were you I would tear that engine completely down and find out exactly what you need. You could either find out you need to spend more money than you thought, or much less because you won't be buying parts that you don't need.

I don't know the 3.5s well, but I would clean every prong/socket on the connector to the MAF sensor (not just the headted wires) and every other sensor under the hood. The slightest bit of water or dirty water can really mess up readings from various sensors. Leaving the dirty water wherever it may be could also cause long term corrosion.

Looks like it's time to remove it!

X10000. My old truck had that same play in the centerlink when I shook the wheels side to side, and it transmitted to a lot of slop and play driving down the road. It wasn't dangerous, yet, but it didn't give the most confident feeling either. I'd swap that out for a HoHaa unit.

Yup, bad cat. A dose of extremely low quality fuel will do that almost instantly.

That's really bright!

Sounds like a bad case of blow-by to me. The oil is being forced from the valve covers into the intake and then out to the filter.

Soak it in a good penetrating oil like PBlaster for a couple hours before taking a wrench to it. If you are sure to be replacing the sensor then it would be okay to cut the wires. Even as old as my truck was I didn't have to use any type of penetrating oil, though it was hard to break loose.

That's what most manufacturers do in vehicles anyways, direct seating surfaces in leather and the rest vinyl that's a close match. Keeps the cost down...

Good job getting it fixed man! Now remember what I said about buying parts prematurely...

I had wheels from a Toyota T100 on my old Pathfinder. The 4-ish spoke wheels you see from older 4Runners/pickups fit as well.

You do know that the entire Nissan Hardbody/Pathfinder electrical system is designed and made by Bosch, right? This includes the fuel injectors, pumps, harnesses, relays, switches, wiring, etc. I put a NAPA premium cap and rotor in my truck and it runs great.

Also, if you drive a newer WD, make sure the power button on the dash for the transmission is off. I drove one thinking the transmission was on it's way out the door because it would rev very high before shifting and held gears forever. Then I noticed the switch and flipped it back to normal and it was golden.

The reason the '88-'95 autotragic transmissions don't last very long is due to the stock cooler that is prone to clogging, with a transmission (RE4RO1A) that tends to send a fair amount of debris through the system. It's highly recommended that an aftermarket cooler be added, with a minimum rating of 18,000LBS, and bypassing the stock cooler completely. I left out the '86.5-'87 from that because they use the L3N71B 3-speed which is much better made and barely puts any debris at all into the system for a very long time. My old '87 auto was starting to act up a little at 204K miles so I installed a cooler and flushed the fluid out and it shifted great. Make sure you put GL4 in your MT.

There's no point in running anything over 89 octane through these engines, the compression ratio is so low it simply doesn't do any good. I'll stick by NGK V-Power plugs. Cheap, last a long time, and deliver good spark. I've never gone wrong with them, in fact I intend to switch back to them pretty soon. Also check your EGR valve for functionality. If it's clogged or worn out it'll cause rough running and terrible fuel mileage. That new O2 sensor should bump up your mileage a little. Another thing, remove the MAF sensor and clean the 2 wires with brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. Over time it gets dirty and gives the ECU poor readings.

Cap, rotor, and wires. I'd buy about 3 feet of vacuum hose, you may find as you go through your engine that a few lines are cracked or fit loosely on the fittings. Wix is by far the best oil filter you can buy, best filtration and durability. Fram's filters are known to come apart due to the paper type filter used. YounWheels, I think you mean to say the K&N filter can mess with the MAF sensor in the intake, not the O2 sensor wich is in the exhaust system. Again, Wix filters (NAPA Gold) seem to have the best balance of filtration and flow. I'm running NGK Iridiums and I noticed that my gas mileage dropped immediately after installing them. Before the change the engine had Denso plugs in it, and I could do 130 to a quarter of a tank all highway. Now I can barely break 110. Feel free to send whatever you don't spend at Autozone to me.

JJ, where is the wire at that idles the engine up from the AC? I haven't been able to figure it out and I don't want to start cutting wires and burning stuff up. Can you take a picture of it?

I'd like to find one in blue, looks like a place to stuff a subwoofer...

It's a factory option. Some had them while most didn't.