Kingman

I was also looking at that earlier tonight and read exactly what you stated. I'm planning on running a GR center link later on.

I am hoping...hydraulic systems and debris don't mix. The best I can do for now is replace the pump with a good used unit and completely flush the entire system a few times to hopefully remove the debris. It is a completely clean shear though, so hopefully nothing really came off and traveled the system.

Here's a list of the different transmissions used by Nissan/Datsun and the different applications each transmission fits. It's a scanned file and is a little crooked but the information is there. You may have to save it to your computer and then zoom it in.

S-O-L-E-N-O-I-D.

Well the problem became blatantly obvious yesterday when tearing my engine down to replace the timing belt and tensioner. When removing the power steering belt, the power steering pump shaft and pullet came right out without any pressure at all! Then dumped fluid all over the place. As you can see it sheared clean off the T-key in the back of the pump. I took a rubber plug and plugged the shaft hole so it doesn't leak anymore fluid. The squacking/rattling noise I've been hearing was the pump shaft rubbing around inside as it was being turned by the belt. When I started the engine with all the belts off, there was no noise at all. For added peace of mind I went ahead and dug in further and inspected the belt. The tension is perfect, belt is in perfect condition, and no noises come from behind the cover like I originaly thought. All is well now. So now I just need a new power steering pump, and that can wait...

What a lovely combination...

The ECU just unplugs and a few screws hold it in. I'm not sure if the computers between the 94-95 and 90-93 are different because of the newer electronic dash. I also think the factory alarm is separate from the ECU as it has it's own control module, and the remote start is aftermarket correct? I doubt either of things affects the ECU it's self. How does he know the computer is bad?

14 miles to a half a tank of gas. It was the ECU Coolant Temp Sensor, a different one than the gauge temperature sensor. It was pretty bad, it taunted me for months before finally completely showing it's colors. It was an $854 shop fix, but my mom had the money and said she didn't care how much it would cost to fix because I needed something to drive within 2 days. It would be fine for a while then suddenly start sputtering and almost die out, then when the engine cooled down it would be okay. It was on an extremely sudden cold day that it went completely haywire. It was telling the ECU that it was in the antarctic at -4856468516564 something degrees so it was dumping 100% of the injectors' capacity into the engine. I forget how many ohms of resistance the sensor had but I do know it was a crap load.

Noooope, no pre-cat.

There's a fix for that... http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=5&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

I did mine with zip ties, there's no way in HELL that thing was going anywhere. One on each corner and one through the middle.

Is it an automatic or a manual? If it's a manual the hopefully obvious and common sense warnings apply.

"Nine, you're mine" is what a lot of officers use to judge whether or not to pull someone over. "Nine (9 over the speed limit), you're mine (officer pulls you over)"

Yeah, unsurpassed for dog-sh!t service!

It was a tight fit, but it went in. That's what she said! The core support vertical brace did hamper where I put it so I had to stick it on the driver's side of the radiator. If I remember correctly, a cooler won't pass in between the vertical support and the grill but will fit on either side of it, if that makes sense.

The legos have .98" of backspacing and the XE steelies have 1.18" of backspacing.

Go up from underneath in between the radiator and the front grill with the cooler, that's what I had to do. A 180F thermostat and gasket only cost me $8 when I replaced mine. You could flush it out with distilled water, they're like $.75 for a crappy brand gallon at a food store. I also bought a tube of the "red" high-temp Permatex gaket maker to make sure everything was sealed properly.

I also thought matched would be better, until I brought it up to my buddy Tim at his house when we were talking about me rebuilding my top end. For many years everyone would match the exhaust ports thinking "the flusher the better." However that wasn't the case. If they are completely flush, a small portion of the exhaust gasses tend to reverse flow and try and travel back in to the head, stopping some flow and hampering performance. The little "lip" that an unmatched set up creates gives the exhaust gasses a little swirl and sucks the rest of the exhaust out of the head. Interesting the things you learn from someone who's been a mechanic for 30+ years. It's a damn good song, and so true!

Very annoying that the FSM doesn't show the backspacing, but it does state the offset for the legos to be 25mm or .98" and for the steelies 30mm or 1.18".

I take back what I said about matching the head's exhaust port to the manifold/header, you actually want the head's ports to be slightly smaller than the manifold/header (about 1/16" to 1/8") for better exhaust flow. However on the intake side you want them to be the same.

It's normal to a certain degree. The Maxima injectors tend to click like mad when they age.

Update: Took it over to Tim's today and he pointed something out that I kind of noticed but didn't really think about, and that is that the engine doesn't load down whatsoever when cranking the wheels even at full lock with a lot of pressure trying to turn more like it should. He said the pump seems to be just flat not pushing any fluid.

Mine is threaded for 2 hooks, though one is missing... Sorry B, but your 2 door bashing doesn't work this time.

Then replace the starter?

Stock backspacing is 3.75" and most direct replacements for stock are 4.00" as stated above and many times before and various threads.