Kingman

Whoops, the motor was stuck on my mind. VQ35.

Just to start: Revised body panels, fascia, and rear taillights, upgraded interior with better materials, upgraded engine from the VG33 to the VQ35 with butterfly valve issues, LE wheels (the huge sexy ones), and probably some more options.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18663&st=0&p=315327&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=315327 5 seconds with the search button.

Red couldn't have made it any clearer. The only miniscule electrical being within the 4x4 system is the dash light, which is tripped by a sensor on the transfer case I believe. It's possible that someone fuggered up the wiring and when you press the button the light comes on, but that button can't shift a linkage and start turning a transfer case. That interlock button, as already stated, is purely for starting a manual without the clutch. I own one and use it all the time.

There is one flasher for the hazard lights and blinkers, it's up under the driver's footwell near the brake pedal arm. I would tear your center console apart and inspect... Oh, do you hazard lights work?

Yeah, welded diff on the front drive axles. I'd do what Nunya suggested, swapping the hubs.

If you have a manual, then the missing relay in the block would be the inhibitor (neutral switch) relay. If it's an auto, then I don't know.

I thought you fixed the temp sensor that you thought was the problem?

How does it run with the gutted unit?

Holy @!*%! You lucked out bro, good thing that didn't make it's way deeper. I think I'm going to have a peak at mine now...

Well, it randomly stopped doing it for now. It starts perfect every time... Hmm...

Also when the mechanical fuel pump is right next to the engine. Nowadays it's all electronic.

H4? Did you swap in Hardbody buckets or something? What year is your truck? '86.5-'95Pathfinder buckets I know for sure are a 9004 bulb like edicer2 said.

I plugged the computer back in yesterday in shop and every test came out perfect. However, I was fiddling with the MAF sensor and wiggling the wiring made it run different or killed it. So I took the connections off and talk about corrosion! I cleaned every prong and socket off real good and now wiggling the wires doesn't change anything. But...the problem is still there.

I believe the headlights share a common ground, but I'm not completely sure. It just seems somewhat familiar.

ABS can be downright dangerous on snow/ice, especially when it cuts off 100% of the power to the brakes. When Washington had it's realy bad snow/ice storm last year, I almost ended up in my neighbor's yard across the street because of my step mom's '06 Kia Sportage completely cutting off the brakes. I could back down our driveway in my non-ABS pathfinder just fine by modulating the brakes. But when you can push on that brake pedal with all your might and there's absolutely no braking action happening, that's not a good thing. My step mom was scared ........less to drive her car because she had no braking control whatsoever.

You shouldn't. Check and listen for the fuel pump whining when you turn the key to "on". If it whines but very faint or changes sound then it might be going away...

I've been having a weird starting problem going on now for a few weeks. The truck will start fine when it's cold, but when it's warmed up sometimes it will either: A) Sort of start, to where I can see the tach barely move then die. B)Start at 500RPM, and then slowly raise to normal warm idle (800RPM). C) Start completely normal. Engine catches and revs to 1200RPM smoothly and then drops back down to idle, like it should be doing every time. D) Start the same as C, but instead of dropping back to idle it just dies. If does A, then it will crank for a while longer before it sputters to life. Stepping on the gas seems to help but I'm not quite sure. However, when it acts up it'll start and run within 3 tries. It did do something weird yesterday though, it started fine but idled up to 1600, exactly where it idles to when it's completely cold. I hit the gas and it idled normally. I thought that was weird, indicator of a sticking or problematic IACV? I thought it may have been a fuel filter so I replaced that but it didn't help. Plugs, cap, and rotor are new. I cleaned the MAF sensor and connections as well, no change. The computer isn't throwing any codes and according to the Snap-On unit the MAF sensor, O2 sensor, and TPS sensor are working perfectly. Once it's running it runs perfectly fine. Any ideas?

Gasoline doesn't completely freeze until -300F. It starts to freeze at -97F. However, if you have any water at all all in the system then that will freeze at 32F.

Search... They're a flange set up. The CVs are always turning but are engaged/disengaged from the transfer case only. You can install aftermarket Warn hubs, so they don't turn all the time and improve the gas mileage.

I'd take some.

Why would you want up put a fart can on a Pathfinder? Dual exhaust would be fine, but not a fart can dual exhaust.

The O2 sensor is upstream of the cat, so it should not make a difference. The ECU Coolant Temp Sensor (code 13) WILL throw a code. I would remove the O2 sensor and see what condition it's in. If it's new it shouldn't be dirty at all. If it is, clean it up carefully and leave the battery unplugged overnight to completely reset it. Remember, these are learning ECUs so resetting it should make it forget about the problem and learn the patterns of the good O2 sensor.

When fuses blow the first thing to check is the grounds. I would check and double check those to make sure they are good as well as the rest of the wiring that you can get to. If that's all good then there may be a bad contact in the headlight stalk; all the headlight power is routed through that.

Sweet!