Kingman

I agree with usually, not always. There are plenty of mechanical failures that happen suddenly and without warning. Have someone turn the ignition to "on" while you listen very closely, and if possible with a stethoscope, to the fuel tank area. You will hear the fuel pump whine if it's functioning. As was said, check all the fuses, spark, cap and rotor, timing belt, etc. Your ignition coil may have given up, which would be diagnosed if there's no spark coming from the coil wire when you ground it out. If you have spark coming from your coil wire, but no spark from the distributor to the plugs, the problem is likely with the cap and rotor, though usually that will cause degrading engine power and running quality, not just suddenly give up and cause everything to quit. Also check the distributor power wire, which is different than the ignition coil wire. It's attached to the lower part of the distributor and is only a small 18 guage wire. I've had that come off or undone a few times and kill the engine on my old Pathfinder until i soldered it together and onto the distributor permanently. Good luck!

It depends on the brand. Some people report Monroe or Rancho shocks going out within 10k miles, while other shocks such as KYB, Fox, or OME can go for 100k+ miles.

Too wide for the Pathfinder engine bay unless you do a lot of custom fab work. You would also need to rotate the intake so it faces the front or use the VG intake, which I don't know if it's a direct bolt on or what.

Nismo makes European spec cams that wake these engines right up. I think they list for $300-$400, but new or slightly used sets pop up on Ebay every now and then for less than $200.

Awesome find man! Hope Nytrosfinder doesn't see this, he's been searching constantly for new, cheap, Pathfinder.

Make sure you keep up on the timing belt/water pump maintenance or your Pathy will have the same fate as the Dodge.

I would start by replacing your fuel filter if it hasn't been replaced recently. Poor wiring to the fuel pump would also cause the engine to run rough.

I broke the passenger side sway bar clamp on my old Pathfinder when I was sucked into a curb. I welded it back on and it never broke again.

That's a ridiculous price to pay and I see absolutely no way of ever justifying something like that.

It should bolt in and go.

They are completely interchangable. It's the same RE4R01A transmission used from '88-'04.

Search is your friend. Yes, you can.

Hmmm, never had a problem with it either.

I would check your MAF sensor. My '87 did this quite often for a while until one day I was fiddling around with something and I hit the harness going to the sensor. The idle changed and so I continued to play with the connector and wires for a while and then the fluctuating idle completely went away. Different years, but you have the same symptoms I did so I figured I would throw that out there.

Remove the panel and press gently but forcefully at the same time until it pops out.

If I were you I wouldn't let anyone from Wal Mart, no exceptions, touch your truck. I would drain and replace the fluid ASAP with a good quality oil. Old or low fluid will cause a lot of accelerated wear and eventually ruin the rear end.

Can you hear the motor trying to do anything when you change directions? If so your regulator cable is most likely twisted up. Mine snapped and you could hear the cables slapping around inside the door panel when trying to move the window.

There were 3 different setups for the regulator/motor assemblies. I believe 1/1988-6/1990 shared the same design and then a different one was used from 7/1990-1995. I think the difference is only in how the motor mates to the regulator from 1988-1995, but the 1987s used a different regulator all together.

265/55/R16? That's an odd size... and working for a tire company, the smallest MT we sell or that I've seen come through is a 235/75/R15 and it was a Maxxis Bighorn.

Well that's gay... time for a V8!

Air saws-all as well. They come in handy for cutting in the small and hard to reach places.

6550 is when mine started bouncing off the limiter. It wasn't a fast bounce per-se like you usually hear, it was slower.

Attach locking pliers to vent shades. Pull quickly and forcefully. Pray nothing besides the shades is removed.

I like that idea...I'll be in Kent until Monday.

Yes that seems to be the case...