Kingman

Is that extended trim panel on the vehicles that have the spare tire mounted inside?

PMd you.

Euro refers to the light beam control design used in Europe. It's much crisper and better controlled than lights sold in North America. If you take a standard Hardbody light and aim it at a wall, the beam control is relatively poor with a foggy "line" while a European spec headlight for a Hardbody (CieBie, there are no Euro lights for a Pathfinder bucket) will be 1000000000x more controlled and a little brighter as well. Because it's so controlled it allows a much broader spectrum of light to be emitted while not offending oncoming traffic.

Okay, if the belt hasn't been changed that you know of then your best bet would be to replace it anyways like B said. Have you tried what was suggested to see if your belt has slipped a tooth?

That belt is strictly for the AC so you are just fine in removing it completely if the bearing is bad. I have 2 idler pulley units for the AC sitting in my garage, complete with the pulley and bracket with bolts, if you want to keep the AC.

I want to point one thing out here that somewhat leans me away from this being a bad timing belt/crushed valves issue. If your timing belt slipped a tooth and/or you smacked some valves, I don't see a way the engine would run normally for a while. I just wanted to point that out because it wouldn't be fair to you to buy those parts I offered and Tim agreed to sell if the problem is something different entirely. Basically you'd be stuck with a good engine and a set of cams, lifters, valves, and guides with no where to put them, unless your intention is to have them installed "just because." If you really do want them then that's fine, and I would suggest looking into having your heads machined to factory spec at the same time the set of parts goes in.

What's cool about them is that you can take a drill and a socket to the fitting on the jack and quickly raise or lower the vehicle.

3300 isn't anything really, consider what Adam said about the old Pathfinders - especially the '87s with the 3-speed automatics. I turned over 4000RPMs+ on the highway, and it had over 200k on it and the engine was in great condition.

The only "room" you'll need is the space of the truck and a few feet in front for maneuverability around the engine. I tore the front of my engine down to inspect things and that only required the basic tools and it really didn't take that long. It's all nuts and bolts man, it'll go back in the same way it came out so long as you're careful and take your time. To be honest I was pretty concerned for myself when I looked at my engine knowing I needed to tear into it, but once I got going it was really fun and extremely easy. This bolt goes here, that one goes there...pretty soon you're done. The most important thing is to make sure you are 100% certain the belt is lined up properly. If you find that the belt slipped a tooth or something on you, then I would be worried about bent valves and pitted pistons because you said you heard tapping and lost power. Just some food for thought: If you do have internal engine damage, someone I know that lives in Vancouver by me has a set of cams, valves, and valve guides with only 10,000 miles on them for $50. I've seen them myself and they are in perfect condition. He removed them when he had his Pathfinder heads resurfaced and European cams from Nismo installed.

I would offer but I'm 3 hours away. Almost all of the members on here from Washington are right up around that area.

The newer frames rust much worse than the old frames. All you see are the 4-doors with rotted frames.

The only even remotely modded R51s are the ones seen in some off-road TV shows and magazines. I see them all the time with huge rims on them and the poeple driving have the seat so far back you might as well be laying down.

I have a set of universal fit Smith and Wesson floor mats. They're thick, durable, black, and have mini bullets as the patern. They've help up wel and are easy to clean.

So this means I can remove my post antenna? Good, that thing is ugly and needs to be broken over someone's head.

Yes, I learned that lesson alright... In Diesel today I'm hoping I can pull it in and try and find the problem. Amazing how most people don't know the hand signals...I had a guy honk at me when I was pointing to turn left and that hand signal quickly turned to an "FU."

So why didn't you change out the O2 sensor when it threw the code instead of waiting forever for it to get extremely bad?

I had someone looking through the wiring diagrams trying to track down a common point between the problem areas I'm having and he couldn't find anything to latch on to, so that somewhat leaves me with tracking down a melted bunch of wires that are cutting power and cross-feeding signals. He's still looking but didn't feel like sitting on the phone.

That's your brake booster sucking vacuum from your intake.

Are there other fuses other than the ones under the dash and the relays up front in the engine bay? I checked all of them as noted and they are all fine and transfer power.

So it's possible I simply fried part of the wire that I connected the fan to?

So as I was trying to find an ignition power source for my electric fan, I touched a connector in the harness shown below. The fan clicked on for a split second and then shut down so I immediately disconnected it. I stopped fiddling with things after that and wondered if my truck would still run. I then noticed that my gauge cluster went wacko. No tach, volt, temp, or fuel gauges work, no rear defroster, and no blinkers though the hazard lights work. The amp and oil indicator lights are dimly lit constantly now, and the amp light brightens up when I shift into reverse. Now back to the tach...it does something really funny. It'll go up to 1000RPM and stay there after a few seconds of the engine running, but when I hit the gas it drops to 0 and then when I hit what sounds like 3000RPM the tach shoots up to about 4000RPM and then flies to redline and then all over the place. It's really weird. I thought I might have messed up my check relay, however replacing that did nothing but the gauge cluster is dead when the relay is removed, as expected. I checked all the fuses under the dash and all other relays under the hood and they are fine. WTF. I did make videos but I don't have any way of connecting my phone to the computer at my mom's. Any ideas on what I fried? It's got to be more than the gauge cluster since the blinkers and rear defroster went away. Harness of Death:

Haha! Yesterday while I was shadowing a mechanic a vehicle came in with the same problem as you described. It turned out to be a pen cap that was floating around and when the gas rushed over to the right side of the tank (turning left) it would be sucked into the pickup on the pump and then fall back out. They removed the cap and re installed the pump and it ran beautifully.

No problem man. Believe me, there are some smart ass comments on here from certain people, myself included at times.

Yes, all of the dash lights are back lit. There are small lights inside that you can try and replace, but most just deal with it or replace the switches from a junkyard and hope they light up.

The tube runs along the roof on the driver's side, at least that's where mine runs.