Kingman

On OBDII vehicles, the oxygen sensors read what's going in and out of the cat. If both sensors mirror themselves, then it's an indication of a bad catalytic converter. That's when the computer realizes there's a problem and throws a catalyst efficiency code.

Lol, mine backfires frequently when I let off the gas suddenly and is known to shoot a flame out the tailpipe... still haven't found the cause. I just took my wiper arms off yesterday to paint them, just 1 12MM nut and the arms pull off if a splined shaft. Lining them back up is tricky though, especially when the spring in the wiper arm wants to contract, which smashes your finger and sends the arm flying.

Check/clean the MAF sensor, remove the connector DO NOT loose the wire clip securing it, and make sure there isn't a spec of corrosion on the contacts. I've had the problem and a few other idle related problems before and the MAF sensor was always the cause. If that doesn't work, make sure you're adjusting the correct idle screw - the one facing the passenger side, not the one facing the sky. If that's assured, then maybe swap out the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) for a new one and see if that makes a difference.

Hills+load+engine surging+manual transmission usually means a clutch slipping a little. Is it surging as in revving up without the speed increasing or cutting out/losing power?

I tell you what, when you have a loud burly exhaust system that sets of car alarms and booms under freeway overpasses, people tend to turn heads to see what the hell it is.

Aren't those already new?

600-700 in drive and 750-900 in park is just fine... as long as 10 PSI of oil pressure is circulating there's no problem, which even 600 RPM is enough to produce.

I called the Alan Webb Nissan here in Vancouver about getting mine fixed and he said the warranty only covered 1989-2002 models.

Good thread, it's something I've been thinking of for a while. I've seen a few in the junkyard untouched for long amounts of time...wonder why that is? Post up any info you find.

Even a few thousandths of an inch indent can make parts rub together, I'd imagine you did at least that by dropping the truck on one drum. Why wasn't the tire underneath the truck to stop something like that from happening?

It's been said before many times, not in this thread, but if the ECU Coolant Temp Sensor starts to go bad it won't throw a code unless it's completely gone. The sensor is located in the valley of the block below the intake manifold. It's a bitch to get to and if it malfunctions it'll throw an insane amount of gas through the engine and can damage a lot of other things. When mine finally gave out after a few months of it playing tricks on me, I used a half a tank of gas in 14 miles. Yes you read that right. It would barely run, poured out black smoke, misfired like a mofo, etc. It's a $20-$30 part, however having a shop replace it can bring the repair bill up towards $1000 due to being labor intensive. Mine was $856.xx at a local shop.

No blinking LEDs? There should be a green light on/blinking at all times while the engine is running. You followed the procedure in the How-To, right? If the lights on the ECU aren't blinking as they should be then I'd say there's something wrong with your ECU.

Rotten egg smells do indicate a bad cat, yes. It's usually caused by a bad tank of gas.

Pictures!!!

Various sensors and wiring down there. Fuel pump mainly.

ECUs shouldn't generate any heat at all, so sealing it would be fine. I like GGs idea, may have to try it myself.

I don't recommend that...it took me a long time to get that switch back together or even work. It was a fluke thing that I made the right connection with the paper clip... and it doesn't seem like that would be your problem.

6 beefy bolts to the frame is all.

You're talking about a receiver right? The junk yard or U-haul as far as I know.

Did someone install a U-haul towing package on your rig at some point or removed it before you got it? Sometimes people don't exactly patch things up properly and leave open ends to ground out with. As for blinkers, if everything looks good, try swapping out the hazard light switch. My old '87 had one that was somewhat shorted out and wouldn't allow the blinkers to work very often. I think I stuck a staple between 2 connections inside of it and they worked, but no hazards. However since you said they were working until you messed with the brake lights, that usually indicates a grounded out wire which would blow a fuse, or a short/ground somewhere that's not letting something get power.

Not such a good idea anymore, those lights tend to draw enough power to blow fuses or ECUs. A volt meter, $5 at Harbor Freight or the likes, is a much better option and gives more options for diagnosing problems...

Looks good man.

It should improve, cool straight air going into the engine rather than being mixed with very hot, re-used exhaust gasses. Emission systems are the biggest gas and power sucking systems on engines.

"Kalamin upper control arms and lower ball joints and torsion beams?" What the hell is that?! Notice the $10,000 in upgrades is now gone? But has been replaced with the "ultimate OFFROAD vehicle."

I replaced mine with a 15/16" combination wrench (the size of the nut on the back of the compression rod, or comparable size metric, but a 15/16" will work perfectly), a torch, a hammer, a few various sockets for bolts I don't even remember (I think the bolts holding the compression rod to the LCA are a 17mm?), and a bench grinder. Hell I didn't even replace the busing cups, I just stuck fatty washers in... It is extremely dangerous to drive with - the only reason I even drove with my bushings worse than yours was because I had no other vehicle and had to get to school every day. Sometimes it scared the living piss out of me it shook so bad.