Kingman

I think it's kind of strange that an intake like that would be too restrictive on a little 3.0L. Have you seen the ones on 318s?

The first thing I did when I got my old Pathfinder, and this new one, is rip that mother #$!&er out. It's got to be the most annoying chiming sound of any vehicle next to little Hyundai cars. I don't mind door dingers, and they can be helpful, but the sound that ours makes is idiotic. "I'm gay, I'm gay, I'm gay..." I want to try and find one that has a nice soft mellow sound to it, like the quieter GM trucks and install it. I only want it to warn me when I leave my headlights on as well.

You can do A LOT of modification to the H4 bulbs and buckets those use. They make 130W bulbs for those suckers, and if you get European spec lenses for them you'll be set. Heavy duty wiring required, of course.

Larger tires lower RPMs... smaller tires raise them.

You did the compression test with the throttle wide open, right? If not that usually lowers the numbers substantially.

If it's everywhere it's probably oil, but keep in mind a very little bit goes a long ways.

That bastard has the door panels and window switches I want... And he's got auto climate control... And blue back lighting... And I bet that sound system is EXTREMELY!!! loud... And I bet that truck weights a ton more than what it used to...

PM Alkorahil, maybe he can look it up and see if there's any information to be had by it.

That clang is the problem...spinning the CV axles with the tires not moving sometimes can lock the hubs, but it's the axles spinning and then suddenly locking the tire that can blow them up.

For the sake of safety, I would not re-use those mounting bolts. New hardware...bolts get very weak once they've been bent and if they catch on the threads while pulling the body back you can have some dangerously weak hardware. I would buy new bolts, and line the body up to normal and then put the new bolts in. Straight bolts will, of course, make installing everything again a whole hell of a lot easier. It's hard to get bent bolts to thread in (assuming they're bent, even if just a MM or so).

You get it in reverse, you just have to have the vehicle moving in either direction for the hubs to lock. Usually you only need to back up a foot or so, and that's not enough to lock the hubs in so most people think that they just don't lock in reverse. Either that, or the axle shaft spinning so fast (vehicle not moving with a lot of throttle) and the hub locks and goes CLANK.

I plan on switching to Warns or Nissan manuals, if I can find them, some time soon. I grenaded my passenger hub towing a Jeep out. I was slowly backing up and towing hum, churning mud, low RPMs and BANG. There it went... I've had problems with them not disengaging sometimes on my old Pathfinder, no matter how far I backed up. They did have a lot of miles on them though but I never did break one, and I was HARD on it. In some situations where you need 4-wheel NOW and you can't engage it because the truck can't move, autos really show their weakness. I like the security of having the axles locked under my control and that's all there is to it.

if I disconnect my AB valve it starts up really funny every time. It also backfires. And if any vacuum lines become unattached, it runs like sh*t.

That size doesn't sound right...

Indeed it is. Which is why I want to swap to a 300ZX intake...

I would agree, but that's a gramatical error so I can't take it seriously. There's no ownership being showed by TBI, only plural units. I smogged mine too at school and it passed just fine. At the emissions place, the guy stuck it in the tailpipe and waited for a few seconds and yanked it out as the numbers were still rapidly falling and told me I failed. Pure laziness on his behalf. That number was way higher than the previous test for CO at idle, the first test was 2.XX (limit is 1.20) and the second test AFTER I RE-INSTALLED MY RETURN TUBE FROM THE CAT was 3.09. I had it passing steadily at .89 earlier that day, we also use the same machine at school that the DMV and every automotive shop uses.

I've been driving on expired tag for over a month due to that same damn problem. I can't figure it out either. I've got the same motor you do...

No resistance means an open in the circuit, or no continuity. Basically, nothing there. When you have resistance it means electricity is passing through a working electrical component which is a good thing. A good bulb will have resistance, a bad bulb won't have any. MSDs have warranties right?

It sounds like how I remember doing it. Give it a shot. If it doesn't work you can always put the bolts back and try something else. The diff can be a pain to line back up though when reinstalling, but it's doable.

I had one hell of a time getting my diff out on my old Pathfinder. I suggest PULLING on the wrenches, not pushing. I made that mistake and the head of a bolt stripped out and I gouged the back of my hand into the frame rail or something. I had no feeling in that hand for 2 weeks. It wasn't pretty. I'm also fairly sure Nissan had some 700LB sumo wrestlers torque the bolts...

The easiest way is to drop the front diff. A long extension to get to the diff mounting bolts through the engine bay seems to work the best and helps with saving your hands.

Mine are at 5% in the rear with the factory mirrored tint and 15% in the front... You cannot see into the back whatsoever unless you're following way behind and there's light going through the whole truck.

It's not mine and is not going in my truck. It's a transmission from a '98 with 26,000 miles on it. I'm installing it for a guy who is buying the spare Pathfinder that needs the transmission from my friend Tim. He's not as nimble as he used to be so he offered me the work and to make some money. To make it easier I'm going to split the tranny and transfer case...

Possibly. All that's required to check spark is holding the plug against the block while the motor is cranking. There should be spark... Check your codes!