Kingman

2 things cause clicking, low voltage or a bad hold-in winding in the starter solenoid. Good battery and connections? Bad solenoid...

A factory alternator should have no problem pushing an electric fan. If the alternator was already on it's last legs then it probably would have gone away regardless. Headlights draw just as much, or even more, amperage as fans do.

General thoughts? Are there any tricks to anything or complications I should be aware of? I'm getting ready to install a new automatic into an '89 Pathfinder.

Lucky bastage! Mine refuses to spin both 31s on dry pavement.

For the most part it's just a general rule. Some trucks can flex more than others after lifting, making the chances of blowing shocks vary. My buddy lifted his 4Runner 3" and blew both rear stock length shocks out within 2 miles on a trail last year. Now he's got extended KYB Monomaxes on and hasn't had a problem. I've heard that the KYBs have some sort of protection built in to them so they can handle a lot more over-extension before blowing out, but if hammered enough eventually they will. Maybe you could find something to flex out on and see if the shocks are even reaching their full extension?

Yeah no one makes spools for these things. If anyone did, it would be these guys, who are great to deal with. www.ringpinion.com If you're going cheap, get some 7018 welding rod and weld the spider gears together. However obviously your street manners will be much worse and you may wear out tires faster. Lockers are the best way to go, but they are so damned expensive. You could also go to a junk yard and try and find a Pathfinder with the factory rear LSD (Limited Slip Differential). This is like a locker, but not as good. One tire looses traction and clutch plates lock together forcing both tires to spin at the same time. It's limited though, with how much force it can handle before becoming an open diff again. I gotta say though, our LSDs are damn strong and lock up pretty hard. I thank it every time I'm out wheeling...

They have to have a longer travel, otherwise stock length shocks on a lifted rig would over-extend and ruin the shock instantly. 5000s are firm but seem to blow fairly easily. Some people have had great luck and others horrible. At least with 9000s, you can adjust the ride and Rancho has a killer deal going on to promote them right now.

I've got ceramics on mine, they work well when warmed up and they are more than capable of stopping the truck in a hurry and easily lock up the brakes (only problem). They bring it to a stop a little faster than the old whatever-brand pads that were on there before. They don't make any noise at all and there's barely any brake dust on the front rims even after nose diving a few times.

Uhm. No, it's still as flammable as ever...

Maybe it's just yours... I towed 2800lbs the second day I owned my '88 5SPD and it did perfectly fine and was able to cruise on the highway in 5th no problem. It struggled a little more in town obviously, but nothing too dramatic. I shifted at 3500 every time and it moved along just fine. The 4-wheel disks didn't have a problem stopping everything, either. I towed my friend's jet skis and quads on small trailers around during the summer and I have no complaints...once moving we didn't even notice the cargo.

Did you turn the TPS sensor at all? I've heard that having to re-adjust them is a bitch... Re-check the wiring on the MAF sensor as well. They have a tendancy to become brittle and bent/partially disconnected over time from smacking the hood.

If you have worn shocks you will need them. Going over bumps with bad shocks will slam the ass end down, the tires will be ripped apart by the inner fenderwell, it'll ride like crap, and it will be hard to control. My old Pathfinder didn't have the stops but had good shocks so it wasn't ever a problem. I thought my rear shocks were good because of how stiff the rear was on my new '88. After taking them off and having the tires rub like crazy and gouge the crap out of my tires I realized the only reason it was stiff was because the shocks were so bad the bump stops hit over every bump.

Haha holy crap Garret that's pretty detailed. Hell I've always measured from the ground to the lip of the fender flare and all four corners are at 31.75"

2-doors all the way!

Don't mess with the idle screws on an MPFI. They're sealed from the factory... Check the wiring for the MAF sensor and the sensor it's self. there's a How-To in the garage.

Lol the middle number is the percentage of the tire width from the top of the tire to the bead. So a 265/65/16, the tire is 265 MM wide and the distance from the bead to the top of the tire is 65% of 265 or 172-ish MM. That is where the rim size comes into effect, the larger the rim the taller the tire will be with the same width and percentage rating.

Trimming? 65/R16 is smaller than a 70/R16. If anything, trimming would be required with 70 vs 65.

Toyo MTs are over rated and over priced sh*t.

I had no power steering for a few months. It made absolutely zero difference besides being extremely hard to turn.

Yes it's supposed to have a skid plate, but I've only seen 1 in person that had a factory one and it was an '87 at a dealership.

Well that's not so bad, I decided to race my buddy's '95 JGC 5.2L V8 the other day. Can ya guess who lost???

Generals are alright and fairly cheap. Sometimes you can get killer deals on tires and wheels from Craigslist. My friend just paid $175 for 4 33x12.50x15 BFG KM1s with 85% tread!

98626? How's that a Florida zip code, you're on the east coast? It's 98607 where I live in Washington!

That's so sad. RIP Jared, we'll be thinking of you, your family, and friends.