Kingman

I have LTXs on my truck as well. They're a good tire on road, besides in the wet, and perform well DRY offroad and snow. Kiss your chances of getting anywhere if you get remotely stuck goodbye when you hit the mud.

I'm driving my mom's Jeep. It seems every time there's a problem with either of my Pathfinders, the Jeep is how I get around. The Tahoe wouldn't start this morning...it has a problem not starting when it's rainy and moist out. Since it wasn't raining yesterday it ran perfect. This morning all it did was crank.

X2. I had the same problem on my old Pathfinder, cleaning everything real good and making sure it was in good shape fixed the sticking problem.

True... I've never been one to panic in situations. I think I literally rolled my eyes, put it in neutral, and shut off the engine. I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow, maybe I'll find some other cool parts as well.

It's a 21 gallon tank. I've fit 20.7 gallons in my old Pathfinder and it wasn't even empty because it was driving just fine. My light comes on at around 3 gallons left. I used to be able to consistently tell when I need to get gas based off the light and mileage, until my gas mileage dropped significantly. Now as soon as that thing comes on I head straight for a gas station and pray there's enough money in my account before I swipe the card.

So today my throttle cable frayed inside of the plastic tubing and jammed at wide open throttle. It's been feeling weird and tight and scratchy for the past few days, I just figured it needed to be lubed. No big deal right? Not. I was cruising down the road and I let off the gas and it kept going at the same rate so I pushed in the clutch and the RPMs raised to about 4K and I was like WTF and tapped it a few times and it still stuck a little and then punched it fast to try and "break" it loose. Bad idea... zing zing zing zing zing zing zing zing zing zing! 6500 pegged bouncing off the rev limiter. Shut off the engine (ever shut off an old engine from redline? It's a God awful ruckus), hammered the brakes, and dove off into a side street. I was able to nurse it over to my step dad's house by getting it unstuck and setting the throttle in one spot and just going with it. After I got the cable to unstuck so I could safely start it there was a serious lifter tick on the driver's side for a while but it shut up. I hope it stays shut up. So now I'm driving his Tahoe, which mysteriously started running again... How does that even happen? It's in a solid plastic tube...

Have you verified the timing is correct? 15* BTDC? Set at 800 RPM?

That was my ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor. Half a tank of gas in 14 miles. Are you sure you replaced the one for the ECU or the one for the temperature gauge?

Same here, mine ran just fine without an O2 sensor. Gas mileage in the city was down but on the highway it actually leaned it out even more.

Yeah, see, I just did 107 miles to a half a tank. I used to get 150-180...

All you need to know when buying mufflers is the in/out locations and the pipe diameter. Match that to the muffler brand you want and you're set. They don't make specific mufflers for vehicles, they're generic.

Make sure the thread on the O2 sensor is 12X1.25. I bought a universal from Rockauto and it was an 18x1.5. I'm pretty sure no tap exists in that size and no muffler shops carry a bung for it either.

Well I got fooled. I read the title and became excited. Then I realized you had a 3+3, not only a 3" BL. Nice.

Lol when I did my first oil change on this Pathfinder after I bought it someone way over tightened it as well. It was so tight that a screwdrive through it didn't do anything but bend the screw driver and shred the oil filter. Then I grounded out on something that sent sparks all over the place and shocked me. Sometimes people just don't know how to properly replace an oil filter...

The hubs lock the CV axles to the wheels when you engage 4-wheel drive. The rears are always engaged so no locking/unlocking hub assembly is necessary. The Warn hubs allow you to manually lock or unlock the CV axles, instead of the factory automatic hubs doing it for you.

I'm sure it's been used as a marketing ploy by local car dealers and ambitious private sellers. "Special edition, RARE!, #xx of only 300!"

Happy time!

That's not where the computer expects it to run. Since the engine is happiest at 180F, that temperature thermostat will keep it there easiest instead of being allowed to cool below that temperature if the thermostat doesn't close soon enough. I installed a new 180F thermostat a few weeks ago and my gauge sits perfectly center, right where it was designed to.

Ha, well. Um someone used cake pans not too long ago...

I've seen one of those in a junk yard a long time ago. I would think a "special edition" would have some kick ass options like different body cladding, different wheels, POWER and memory seats, power folding mirrors, wood grain trim, accented leather (duh), upgraded stereo with a subwoofer, power sliding sunroof, door light inserts, upgraded gauges, etc. Kinda like Ford's first generation Explorer Limiteds...those things are plush as hell.

I ran the factory fog light switch to my aftermarket fog lights. I simply found the wiring to each factory light, cut them to length, and spliced the wires to my other lights in the bull guard. Everything besides the lights themselves is factory now, and the fuse is in the engine compartment next to the relay center. The relay is mounted on the firewall on the passenger side. If you're talking about running two sets of lights through one switch, each light will still need it's own ground that way a full 12V passes through one light and onto the next, wiring in parallel. I would take the entire lighting circuit from the donor Pathfinder and install it the same way in the other one. That way there's continuity throughout both systems... Is there an unused hole in your center console to put the other switch?

Prices of tires have skyrocketed recently. It's hard to find good, cheap tires. On my old Pathfinder I had some Falken Landairs from America's Tire Co. It was an alright tire all the way around but not impressive, but only $215 for 2 installed.

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Verify with a heat gun that the temperature on the radiator inlet is within 5F of 180F. 180F is normal and optimum running temperature. If that's what you're getting then your gauge is just a little off, there are ways to calibrate it but I don't know how as I've never had to. From the factory they are designed to sit exactly center when fully warmed up. If your gauge is accurate and you're running too cold, your gas mileage most likely will drop and sometimes things just won't feel "right." Replacing the thermostat is the best place to start.

The block of a 305 is the as a 350, no? 4x4parts.com offers a conversion kit with motor mounts and adaptors for GM transmissions to bolt to the Nissan TX-10 transfer case. It will be straight forward since it's only a carburated engine, no electronics make things nice. You should consider a body lift... it might be a tight fit without. With some metal fab anything is possible. Check out Cardomain - there's quite a few 350 conversions on there.

Is 180F the same rating for the diesel as it is the gas VGs? I would think being a diesel it should run hotter than that to promote complete burning of the fuel...