fleurys

could it be just a valve spring that is broken on your number 6 ? At 10 psi, this is pretty significant loss of pressure and for me it's either a huge hole in the piston or a valve that stays open...

we live in a really strange world.... I'll leave it at that.... I like this part : <<< "This has to be one of the dumbest things I've heard," he wrote to the Copyright Office. "I can't believe this is even a discussion. If I purchase a car, I own it. The freedom to do whatever I want to it is provided by my constitutional rights. Simple as that." >>>

If you want reliability, in my opinion, there is only one way to go... Milemarker 10500 lbs hydraulic... http://milemarker.com/product_type/hydraulic-winch/ http://www.truckspring.com/video/mile-marker/winch-comparison.aspx I have seen way too many different brand of electric winch fail during heavy off road... Not to mention failure of alternators too... You can winch all day long with hydraulic... I guess it comes back to the kind of usage you will need from it...

That's a great news... I`m happy for you ...life has way to turn things around...but you already knew that ! :-) S.

I also offer rear spring spacers for your truck. Click on on my signature or check us out at 4x4design.com Cheers. S.

I sold and shipped my products to australia and new zealand every 2-3 weeks for the last year or so.... No problems there ! S.

In case you are also looking for another solution , I make rear spacers (in 1'' increments) for your pathfinder exactly for this purpose. check my website for sizes and prices.

My spacers are machined (not molded) from solid plates of HDPE (High Density Polyethylene).

Oem with rockfords boots is the best. Find some that are tight and stiff to move and you,ll have the best of both worlds.

You seem to be mixing hubs and lockers.... they are different animals all together.... Let's start with the lockers.... Any 4x4 is actually really a 2x4... It usually means that only 1 wheel in front and 1 wheel in rear will get power from the transmission/transfer case. The 4x4 refers to the fact that it can be either 1 of the 2 front wheel or either 1 of the 2 rear wheels... This is why when you get a wheel off the ground, it is usually this one that will turn and not send power to the other on the ground. This is the general explanation... There is variants like lsd (limited slip diff and smart systems like in the h1...but you get the picture...) A locker is installed in the differential itself. It is a system (either electrically, manually or air pressure activated) that will force both side (both wheels) to turn together. So the power is sent to both wheels no matter if they are off the ground or not. So if you install 2 lockers (front and rear) you get a real 4x4 per se. Hubs now... on our pathfinders (96-2004), the front wheels are directly connected to the the front diff using a flange on the axle. This means, that even if you are in 2wd, your whole front powertrain (cv axles, ring gear in diff, front driveshaft) is turning. There is just no power being sent to it, but it is turning. This gives you the ability to shift on the fly in 4wd because everything is turning at the same speed. The connection only has to be made in the transfer case. Now since everything in front is turning and it is not coming from the transfer case, you understand that it is coming from the wheels themselves. If the front wheel turns, then your front powertrain is also turning. This is where the hubs come handy. They enable you to dis-engage the frontwheels from the powertrain. This means when your hubs are unlocked, your axles, ring gear and front driveshaft are not turning. Therefore this greatly helps in prolonging the life of all these items. It also help on gas since the drag of the front powertrain is eliminated. If you use your pathfinder like the majority of us (daily driver and occasional trails), then you would simply unlock during normal day to day drives and lock when you know you might need the 4x4 (like in offroad or winter time (for us canuck !).. It is simply a cheap and great way to prolong the life of major components and save on gas, while maintaining the ability to shift to 4x4 in a matter of 1 minute. Hopefully you understand better now what the difference is between the 2. Cheers. https://youtu.be/8M_Vzn7Ugs4 (lockers) https://youtu.be/Vxy4n2bzcvo (hubs)

I must say... I'm addicted to road kill from motor trend... These 2 guys are just great... When I want to relax and laugh a bit and forget about everything... this is it : https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL12C0C916CECEA3BC

Have a look here for one of the lift options : http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php. Depending on how much your coils are collapsed or not, you will then be able to know what is the tire size that will fit once the lift is installed. Cheers.

I always preferred an oem from the junkyard than a reman... dont remember the brand of the last I bought :-(

You're right..my bad... If it was in the back it could have been the ujoints, but like you said in the front , the ujoint angles don't change... Sorry.

Check your front ujoint first.. If the vibration is not there in 2wd and that you did not installed manual hubs (I assume), then the cv are turning the same in 2wd... I remember at one point I had the same symptom on my own truck and it was the front ujoint. Look for my post in here.. S.

The problem cannot come from the front or rear diffs because even if you are only in 2wd, the whole front assembly is still turning (cvs, ring gear and front driveshaft). The only place this can come from is your transfer case. When you switch from 2wd to 4wd, this is the only place where there is actually <something more> being engaged. I would definitely have a look at the oil in the transfer case... it is the same type of oil from the transmission that goes in the atx14a tf. S. EDIT :** you just posted while I was writing... good for you if it is ok now..**

LOL... yeah I can see the images in my head.... R50 on 500 shot rock crawling with parts of the diff, driveshaft and axles flying off everywhere hahahaha...

I think i can help ! Www.4x4design.com Cheers

Welcome amman. For your lift, the best way is to measure the height difference between the front and the rear. From there, you will know what you need in terms of spacers height to make your truck level. Have a look at my website on the lift comparison page. Everything is explained there. Cheers. S.

-26c this morning.. Old pathy started on the first try... Gotta love this truck!

keep your struts, coils and shocks, skip the ome lift kit and install spacers. This will save you $$$. S.

Looks good..welcome !

This is now a standard product and is available . I presently have 2 left in stock. Just send me a private message or better yet fill in your info at my website www.4x4design.com in the contact-us page and we'll go from there. Cheers.

The BEST way is an arbbut the cheapest i Think would be to weld the spider gears and install warn or mile marker hubs. Leave one of them unlock for daily drive and lock in trail. S.

At that point, why not go to your nissan dealer and buy oem ?