fleurys

**UPDATE*** Thanks guys for your comments and feeling about this... The problem is now fixed and it did not cost anything.... It was my first rodeo troubleshooting abs and I learned alot here in the last few days... A live data tool is absolutely necessary in order to not blind troubleshoot on this... Since at first, my signal was 0 then after removing the rust in the knuckle abs hole , it gave me back a signal (but only on low speed) , made me think twice about the importance of the rust in this issue. This morning I lift the truck again and started inspecting the cable carefully like mcfalconpunch said... The cable was impeccable with no visible signs on wear or tear. The connector was clean and the pins showed no signs of rust or water infiltration. Then looking at the sensor itself.. I compared with the left wheel (working one), the status of the seating of the sensor. I could see that the right wheel (faulty sensor) was not seating as <flush> on the knuckle as the other one. I removed a good 1/16" of rust where the sensor sits. Whit the years, it had basically <lifted> the sensor from its seating position. Like I said, i'm new at troubleshooting abs and did not think twice when I saw it at first.... I chipped the rust with a screwdriver and hammer, then sanded it. I also had to use a dremmel on the inside of the abs sensor hole because even there the rust had made the inside of the hole smaller and was preventing the abs sensor to insert fully... Once everything cleaned, the sensor was now sitting flat on the knuckle therefore the sensing part of the sensor was at least 1/16" to 1/8" lower in the knuckle . I cleared the abs code, ran the 4x4 transfer case diagnostics in order to erase the 4x4 light (the code was vdc related because of the abs malfunction), then went back on the road. Tested it up to 85mph and no more drops of the signal. The live data shows a perfect coordination between all wheels now. So for everyone out there, before buying a 200$ sensor, have a look at the seating position of your abs and I would suggest investing in a obd2 scanner that has live data and that can talk to specific manufacturer systems. I personally just bought the Autel MD802 All Systems. paid 237$ CAD on amazon... It paid for itself just with this repair... Cheers,

This was a statement that I posted that eventually was proven wrong... I had assumed all along that the front driveshaft was providing for the transfer case oil pump.. It was later showed that it was the rear (main) driveshaft.. So the hubs can be installed on both th atx14a and tx10 without issues.. The only thing to remember is to not leave the atx14a to AUTO mode. Also, do not engage the 4hi when rolling with your hubs open (not locked).

Bring it red hot, then splash of cold water....

The other thing that I read was a possible crack in the tone ring which can make it expand at higher speed, therefore changing the air gap for the sensor... Did anyone had to change a tone ring on his pathfinder ever ? (They don't seem to be problematic like other makes of truck or car)...

Thanks, I will take another look at it...

Thanks for the comment.. I'll go back at it and verify if there is voltage on the sensor.. As for the air gap, I know there is alot of crust rust on the knucle and I think I did not give enough attention to make sure the seating of the sensor was perfect... So I will get at it again.. One question regarding you faulty signals on hydroelectric generators : Did the signal was faulty throughout the rpm range or just higher ones ?

Hey guys... It's funny how life goes... this ime , I need some advice with my 2003 pathfinder with VDC (Vehicle dynamic control)... Bare with me.. Abs light comes on, I have an autel maxi diag than can read and clear abs code from nissan. It tells me that it is not receiving signal from the front right sensor. After verifying live data with my autel scanner, I confirm that the abs sensor gives no reading when the wheel is turned. Following the the troubleshooting procedure from the FSM (BR-120) did not give good results as the manual states than a resistance of 0 to 0.5 Ohms. When I measured my sensor it reads 5.2M ohms... ( I suspect that these sensor are digital and not analog because of the VDC option.. and that the manual is wrong on this part)... That's quite a large difference... but then all my sensors were giving the same reading... so I went on to remove the FR sensor and look at the tone ring. Tone ring looks good but there was alot of rust dust and some minor size flakes... I believe this was not changed since 2003... I blew some compressed air in the hub and quite alot of rust dust came out. Put back the sensor in, redid the live data test and now the sensor do register wheel speed... Hooray... not so fast... Cleared the codes and went for a test drive. Everything worked properly (the abs engages when detecting wheel blocking), the VDC and SLIP do engage when wheel spin and or sliding is detected... I thought I was done... Went on the highway... lights came back... Read the code : C1115 ABS Sensor... Now I do not have anymore the wheel sensor as a fault but more of a general one... I decide to plug the Autel, put it in live data and then go back on the highway.. The results are what is baffling me a bit.... When I stay under 45-50 mph, all wheel sensor report the same speed, as soon as I go more like 60mph, the right front sensor starts shooting false reading. (Ex: 60,60,12,60,60,60,9,60,60,7,etc..) eventually is starts showing continuously a very low speed like 2-3 mph... when I go down back to 35-40mph, everything is back to normal as for the speed reporting... MY QUESTION TO THOSE WITH THE EXPERIENCE : Is it possible that a (possibly digital) ABS wheel sensor only malfunction at high speed ? Has anybody here witness this ? I need more reassurance before I fork 200$ on a sensor.... Thanks again S.

When I installed my 33" with 3+ inches of lift, I installed these from goodridge : Goodridge G-Stop Brake Lines - 4-22082 4" Extended Brake Line Kit - For Trucks with Lifts

Yep many options available.. click on my banner S.

Ho.... This is way past the fixable by nissan... I can assure you... 4" !! Jesus!.. At that point, I would try to bring it back to the seller.... if not, you could , like slatibartfast said and ask a bodyshop to weld a new strut tower... You can buy it here : http://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-parts/2002/nissan/pathfinder/le-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/structural-components-and-rails-scat It's called the Apron assembly I believe

Everything is pretty much in the document I posted... If you follow the procedures, you will be able to see if nissan would declare this unrepairable or not... I guess if you can find that it is repairable, then stop there, rebolt everything and go to your nearest nissan dealer... You'll get the repair for free...

Here's the link to the recall... http://www.4shared.com/office/EVLQulUL/RCRIT-11V244-1111.html *** Click on view document, then on the print icon (save as a pdf) *** This will be alot easier than trying to find the REAL download button... *** you could technically do the repair yourself..

For the third plate I have not started anything for those with a 4" sub frame. If you are interested in one, send me a pm or an email at sfcreation<@>yahoo.com "without the brackets" and i'll work something out with you. Steve.

Welcome !

You could also just buy camber bolts and be done with it. I do not share the opinion of bringing the camber to spec with 2" spacers is difficult. It is easily done with 1 or 2 pairs of camber bolts. S.

Welcome !

Welcome !

Welcome... What kind of info are looking for ?

This makes me think it is clutch related...

You're gonna have fun with this !!!

Sorry no suggestions... sfcreation.com S.

lift spacers.. click on my signature Cheers

I know someone who sells these 1" spacers !

No more special procedure to order.. You can now order your front R50 skidplate with new options: 1) Raw Aluminium (Scratches and/or sanding marks may be present) 2) 4" SFD model - raw 3) 4" SFD model - Powder coated black As always, Free shipping for USA and Canada

Great pictures!