fleurys

Wow.... lot of work... I also hear that a brand new skidplate is coming your way before the end of the week... Can't wait to see the pictures... hahaha

good initiative !... If I can put my 2 cents in, I would probably also offer a <budget> lift which would offer rear spring spacers instead of new springs. This way you would be able to have everything <in house> and save on delivery and waiting time.. Just have to fabricate a good model of rear spacers.... Hope it works for you. S.

if you are going to have a look again at it, if I were you I would go be elimination by removing both half shafts and front drive shaft.. This should not take more than 1 hour and you will either eliminate those things or you;ll find that the problem comes from this... It has to be something that turns... ****edit : forhet about my suggestions,..I just read that you did your tests with the hub locks unlocked...so half-shafts and driveshaft not turning...

I'd rather walk than be seen in this...

I think what laxman was saying is that if someone would take the time to build one kit that has everything, people would be more inclined to buy it since they don't have to search for a welder, Junkyard parts, springs manufacturer etc... I see a business opportunity here...

This thing is called a <tank assembly vaccum> Look the last drawing at the bottom of this page : http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/fuel-engine-control/165-air-cleaner/-c-4700_4701_4717_4720.html Price is 30$ : http://www.courtesyparts.com/22370p-tank-assy-vacuum-pathfinder-r50-1996-2004-p-196427.html at any nissan dealer.

Good... as for the gearing, this is over my bank of knowledge....I have no idea...:-( If the frontier has an r200 and H233b, I don't see why it would not fit. I I were you, I would download some fsm of the frontier of different year (look on ctnc), and start reading about their diffs... you'll know for sure and also the different gearing they came with.... I'll start a small research for you on the side too..

yeah, I,m having the seminar at the gazoduc on may 22nd... everyone's invited (i know you have a good reason....it's the others i'm a little disappointed...)

I was pulling your leg... bad joke I guess..... yes you are right you absolutely need to run same gear front and back or else, something's got to give and it's never pretty...! :-)

you can use 4.6 at the back and 3.73 in the front , no problem...

Yeah, well, I learned something in 4x4...it always cost more than you expected or planned. I know that steevo from ruggedrocks has fitted an atlas transfer case on his older pathfinder, but believe me, it does not look like something I could tackle by myself...maybe i'm wrong, but it does seems intimidating ...have a look here : http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/2009/04/01/nissan-pathfinder-atlas-transfer-case-install-time-to-crawl/ not to mention you'll probably need a new front driveshaft, etc... this is a costy modif....and at the end, you would probably still not be able to climb up where you broke yours...there was obviously wheel spin, and a lower ratio would not have helped you there... I think on the other end you are thinking the right way when you say, you could get the pathy locked and repaired for the price of new atlas... and with lockers you would definitely have been able to slowly crawl your obstacle...and at slower speed...so less chance of doing carnage..

ouch...sorry I can't help you with your question, but if I were you, I would open up the TC and find and replace what's broken. I'm sure it would cost a lot less than any other options... Since you were able to get home on 2wd, I suspect you broke something that connects to the front driveshaft...so it could be the front shaft or even some of the teeth of the clutch drum fitting an atlas to the r50 can be quite a task... I can only assume the amount of fitting, welding and $$$ that it would require.. just my 2 cents..

If you went to the left when braking, this mean something happened to your right caliper... I would remove the passenger wheel and have a good look... you don't want to take any chances with your braking system... Maybe a pad got moved or even broke...really don;t know but when you look it should become clear...

Ho Boy,,,This would be the best news ... I don't know why I assumed it was the front. It's true that the fsm only specify <main shaft> not front or rear... Are you able to confirm that with some of your mechanics ??

What I,m saying is that the atx14a is not like the tx10 transfer case. Meaning that it is NOT idle when in 2wd just because is contains a set of clutch disks just like an automatic transmission. This makes the AUTO mode available in the r50, because the ecu, can engage these clutch disk and pass on 4wd automatically. Even if you are running in 2wd, the whole TC is turning, just not the front clutch pack...but these clutchs needs oil running on them to prevent premature burning... Go on the highway, stay at 65-70 and let me know how long it takes before the 4wd yellow led lights up.... Do get me wrong, I find what you have done very good as far as the description and pictures. I just wanted to make sure that everyone knows every facts about the this... open up your fsm for your transfer case and read it...you'll see that it is a completely different animal than any conventional transfer case... over and out. S.

I don't want to burst the bubble, but it should be noted that installing hubs on r50 that have the ATX14A Transfer Case is more than likely going to cause premature failure of it. This transfer case is clearly different in the way it has been designed and relies on sufficient oil pressure to lubricate the internal parts. It has 2 oil pumps and the primary one is driven by the front driveshaft. The secondary is an electric motor that operates in certain condition and 2wd is not one of them. So basically when you have the hubs unlocked running on 2wd, there is no oil pressure in the TC. be carefull with this... complete explanation of the ecu logic for the sub oil pump of the TC here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22160&view=findpost&p=405931

I think I might have found what msavides was saying. It does look like federal mogul (owner of moogs), did newer products in 2009 ... read on : http://aftermarketbusiness.search-autoparts.com/aftermarketbusiness/Distribution/Federal-Mogul-continues-MOOG-expansion/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/601463

My experience is : I put new ball joints in march 2009 . I choose the cheap ones a 50$ each... welll, there done... exactly 1 year is what they have given me... I'm looking at the moog ones, and will install them, but they don't have zirk fitting on my year/model : I have made about 20000km in that year and probably 1000km in trails.

Kyb strut bearing have been renowned to be problematic.... It's the part that goes between the strut mount(rubber) and the upper strut mount. It's the little plastic ring that has alot of pressure on it , and when it starts to fail, screaching noise starts.. You will have no choice but to disassemble the strut to really have a look at it...because it it really fails, then you will have a bigger bill.... if it's not that then you have lost a weekend and you can go on to the next logical thing....(Which would probably be tie-rod related, but i doubt it..they don't usually make screaching noise, but more like clunking noises..)

AC stands for Automotive Customizers... www.4x4parts.com this place is your friend....start there and look in suspension section.. welcome S.

wow...you did not sit on your a$$ did ya ! can't wait to see the final product ... Bravo.

You know what they say right ?? "It's not the quantity, it's the quality that counts... " !!! hahaha

what was that post about ??? hahahaa Hockey supremacy belongs to CANADA. enough already ! :-)

does not exists.... you either make it or buy 1 of the 2 bumpers that are available for a winch (arb and this place : http://www.kenmtnac.com/WinPat9904.html)

pretty sad actually...