fleurys

I did not know the cv could move inward 3 inches !.wow...I guess looking at this shows that it could still work no ? http://www.cornay.com/videos.cfm?video_id=4 (HERE FIRST!) IFS my kinda way ! http://www.cornay.com/videos.cfm?video_id=6 http://www.cornay.com/videos.cfm?video_id=7 http://www.cornay.com/index.cfm?video_id=8 http://www.cornay.com/products.cfm

You did the right thing... You probably made the error of installing the boot too far at the bottom. Therefore, you did not leave a place for the liquid to evacuate...That is why the bottom of the boot has 2 slots... You have to tie them in a way where there is two small opening for exactly this purpose. You do not want water to stay there and start slowly siping in between the seal to eventually contaminating the inside of your shocks... Whit the holes you made, it will let air come in and dry the whole thing...hopefully it was not there long enough to start doing damage to the seal.

Thanks but it's not really a drive shaft... I guess I could ask someone to custom frabicate input yoke, then snap them in the cornay joint etc..., but I was looking more for a complete and finished solution..

Not sure what you mean...What I see is that this joint is fully articulated, the contrary of fixed...

If You're like me you'll like to read in advance what needs to be done...so I wrote to arb long time ago to get the install procedure for the RD107 and RD135 since they are not on there web site... I have put them here if you want them. http://www.4shared.com/file/96362467/418f7...2135_RD135.html http://www.4shared.com/file/96362453/6dcfe...2107_RD107.html Happy reading !

yes and no... I have another thread in here explaining how PORC (performance off road center) stole 2200$ from me by never sending the lockers... Eventually got my money back from the CC company and bought only the rear one (RD-135) from another place on march 9th.... The locker is on it's way to my house since yesterday....so I should get it within 7 to 10 days... I will be going to rock spyder within 2 or 3 weeks to get it installed.

I understand that this is not new but for me it is... http://www.cornay.com/pdfs/2003-04_4wheel_...road_spread.pdf In the upper left corner, team macpherson made a half-shaft for their IFS setup using 2 of these joints... Looks to me like the solution for fragile half-shaft on lifted r50.. Anyone know anything about these... Tks. edit : I found more infos a bit. Looks like Cooper tools carried the cornay joint under the name Apex. They list the product in there 2000 Universal Joint catalog : http://www.tecnoitaliasrl.net/scarica/07b_...rsal_joints.pdf ( have a look at page 6 !!), But it is not listed anymore in the 2007 edition : http://www.cooperpowertools.com/catalog/pd.../SP-1400_EN.pdf This tells me maybe that it got droped on the way...but canèt find why though...

Actually i,m trying to find which one is the most fragile : warn hub or near limit extended cv axles ?

Looking for some off-road experience.... If I was to have an arb locker in the front of my rig, and get plenny of traction while going up on a rock (let's say moab) and not yank it or anything, just steady throttle and plenty on traction, What would break first ; the hub or the axle ? now this is in theory... the question aplies to my rig while taking in account the AC lift with 32"...so the axle has a good extended angle while torque being applied... Just wondering..what would fail first if the forward progress was not possible and throttle was still aplied... Tks. edit : Also might as well ask, : is there any other cv axles available in diferent material (alloys) like chromoly or any other than the "regular" metal? if not and you had access to a custom shop, what materials would you make a cv axle of ?

got the same sh**t happen to me with my rancho rs9000xl...if the 5000 is also a gas filed shock, then they are defective...

go have alook here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867 you'll probably find your answer. s.

pm sent!

looking for the true type font for the NPORA logo.. I recently made myself some stickers but would like to try again with the right fonts...anyone has it ??

DTS214 is a part number from drivetrain.com...the TC in question is a T100L that you find in some nissan from 81 to 86. The high ratio is 1:1 and the low is 2.074:1 Could not find any other info about the manual vs auto... Maybe others that have the fsm for those years can help...

for rims I know for sure they do not do it, but tires , if you are serious about buying them and you let them know that if they fit you buy, I don't think there would be any problems... I guess that would be true if they have the tire in stock....probably not going to work if they need to order it... S.

not sure about this one...if the universal is not a wide band sensor, then the signal should still be between .2 and .8 volts.... S.

Hey Morpheus...since you work in a nissan dealer , I have a question. Do you think there is a possibility that I could get a used or defective one that is no good for them but still works enough for me to dismantle and see how it works ?? I mean free or very cheap... I don't know how it works..Do the dealer have to send the item back to nissan etc... give me some details as for what the options are for the dealer when they repair a truck with this TC...What do they do with the broken one ?? Tks.

I use 89 and saw a clear difference with fuel consumption compared to 92 or 94... I do more miles/gallon with the 89 octane.

photos ?? anyone out there rebuilding Transfer cases ?? any book or documentation (other than the fsm) that talked about this TC ? I slowly start to feel that i'm going to be on my own on this one

It would be a good one if it ends up being this....

no they're not....and when I say i can compress them by hand, i mean i put one end on my table and put the weight of my body on top to compress the other end... I am not able to compress them while holding the shock between my hands only... http://www.gorancho.com/products/shocks/rs...xl/rs9000xl.php

Tks... these shocks are gas charged (written on it)....and when I received the first one, you could clearly see that the box had been opened and re-taped... and at the time, eventhough I had ordered 2, they sent me one...They said all was left was some parts only and defective ones... So I think they put the leftovers of multiple boxes and did a full set for one...but the shock itself has no visible damage... the rs9000xl has a selectable resistance and with the second one I can clearly feel a difference between the smoothest and the hardest.. The first one, at the smoothest, is actually 3 or 4 time harder to compress then the second one at maximum setting... and changing the setting does not seems to change anything... I already communicated with them about getting a replacement... thanks for the clarifications.. S.

I ask here because it is the first time I ever buy a shock...anyway.. received my 2 rancho a week ago and decided to open them up tonight to prepare them (tie-rap the boot, put the sticker etc..) for the upcoming installation. To my surprise , the first shock, once compressed, stays compressed. While the second will go back to the extended position. I<m pretty sure the one defective is the first one, but just wanted to confirm with others first... Also, an insane ammount of force must be applied to the first shock to compress it.... So A normal shock, like the rancho 9000xl, should it come back to the extended position or should it stay compressed ? Tks.

sorry to interrupt here...is it possible the engine got simply hydrolocked ?? I mean, we all seen smaller puddle doing the job....so the engine might not turn because of that ?? Just a thought...

try typing this in the google search window : 1 inch in mm easy and fast..it works for many other conversions like : 210 AUD in USD