fleurys

one more thing, I think I saw in a post you said that you got the big compressor....start looking for a place.... I heard from my installer that it was a little bit hard to find place for it.. He also told me that on some of his client (pathfinder), he ended up installing it in the front bumper.... I know under my hood, with the 3.5, there is just no place for the big one....only the small one by the driver's side, in the rear corner (near the windshield)... keep us updated if you decide to do it before may 8th...I too want to know if you got stuck somewhere... see ya..

hey hey ! don't we all love lady ups ...! My install is scheduled on may 8th... so I can't help you here... did you get yourself a set of timken 32010X diff bearings ? you'll need them... Also, on my part, I decided to get the diff gasket... I'm pretty sure the old one will have to be scrapped.. when are u installing it ?? yourself or outsourced ?? cheers S.

I have finally found a place that will manufacture (CNC) my bolts from scratch for a reasonable price ... Hey guys !... that means that F I N A L L Y I will soon be able to show you a full aluminum front skid plate for the r50 with Full SS hardware... I'm getting the bolts done next week and will start the pre-order at that time. For those who will prefer to have the skid at a better price but without the bolts, it will also be possible.... anyway, more details next week..

I'm shooting for a bolt-on installation..besides, It's not everybody that has the hardware (and skills) necessary to drill/tap. I'm not gotta let this small bump stop me... I'm awaiting some quotes to have them made, and we'll see.... I will sell them with or without the hardware for those who don't mind the extra work... S.

here you go... I have made you a pdf file with all the diagnostic information for a ford explorer 94. If you jump at page 69, it talk about how to go about a 214 code...if you can't fix it with this, I really don't know what will.....happy reading... http://www.4shared.com/file/100696963/fd3e...diagnostic.html

Well, Today I got called from my bolts supplier saying they received my SS bolts for the skid plates... I leave work early, I get there...and....it's not the good ones !!!!!! I waited 5 weeks for them.... The guy realized that they did order the right thing but it seems the supplier put the wrong product in the bag.. So my guy calls them back... he comes back 10 minutes later saying this bolt is not existant anywhere at his 7 supplier.... WHAT !!?!! So this leaves me with 3 choices. 1) Fill the holes on the skid where big bolts go, and install/sell like this, leaving 3 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom (small ones) holding the plate. This could work since AC only has 2 and 2 small ones.... 2) Have the bolts cutom made by a machinist 3) Leave the bolts holes in the skid and use regular zinc and normal head bolts. This I would hate since part of the bolts would be countersunk and these would not... It would just not work... Now I'm gonna try to find them anywhere until I get a quote from 2 or 3 machinist, but in the mean time I could seriously use you help to find these... So if you know a bolts place, i need your help. Here's the details : The Bolts are M10 X 1.25 X 35mm, Countersunk, Stainless Steel .. The big problem in this is the 1.25. All the bolts that I find with all the attributes have the regular 1.50 thread.. This 1.25 thread equals to something called "fine". There is "regular", "Fine" and "extra Fine". The post #24 is what the overlall bolt looks like... Thanks in advance... DaveFromOZ : I'll take you on the offer...have a look and let me know... S.

yep...obd2 starts in 96... if it can help, alot of time it could be something as easy as the gas cap not being tight enough or not sealing enough....try putting some clear grease on the seal then tight it back clean...who knows..it might just be that ...

for the hitch one, you do not have to sacrifice the winch...it has a a Integrated 2" receiver allows towing (or anything else) while installed .. just so you know..

If you have a hitch, you might have this solution too...though costy... http://www.truckcandy.com/TC/TireGate/HitchGate.htm

complete off road .com....it's in my basement awaiting install... but it's ok, it's not the point of this topic.. I think you did a hell of a top job on this. The procedure is top notch also. you're insipring alot of people here, including me. good show. Steve.

don't want to burst your bubble, but these are not really exact.. rd135 locker is 720 air compressor is 129 installation time is 8 hours... but still, the new lsd is way less anyway.. can't wait to hear how it compares...

see here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22171

I have decided to redo my stickers and I think I went a little overboard....ho well, this place helped me so much and I like to hang out so much in here. Here's a few photos... I know something is starting to take shape with stickers and members and in no mean do I want to interfere with this.. I will still give the chance for others to buy the ones I do but maybe people who already gave for the forum want to wait until the story comes out...if not then go check here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22171 .

Year: 2001 Lift: AC Coils , GR2 Struts, Rancho 9000xl shocks Wheels: stock 16" OEM SE Offset +20 Tires: Firestone Destination MT 265/75R16 Notes: Eventhough the Tire WAS fitting under the strut, there was about 1/16th" of space. fearing that the tire was going to eventually hit the strut at highway speed (expansion), I decided to fit Wheels Spacers 1.25". Had to trim part of the lower front bumper and to recess part of the plastic inner fender. Total about an inch of trimming.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Nissan-Weatherstr...2-600003813.jcw that should get you started....

telle them....yeah typo here.... hahaha... Anyway It's too late to go back now....she said the phone conversation was recorded and now , well, it's either I had the truck evaluated or I have to find a new insurance company. It's ok, for now...I'll have the truck evaluated and she'll offer me a coverage as long as I dont modify more....well I guess 2 air lockers is not really a modif since you don't really see it... Anyway i know that I'm losing this kind of investment anyway (internal modifs).. eventhough i know my insurance payments will go higher, at least if I get stolen or totaled, then they at least will give back more than what I had before... I'll tell when all this is done....

When I called tonight my insurer about the modification I was doing on my truck, I thought I was doing the right thing...Asking them if I was to be covered in case of an accident. As soon as I said the word "modification", she said, you might not even be asurable anymore....we don't assure vehicule modified.... I knew I was fskced...I told her, that I changed the coil spring for "bertter one" and put mud tires for the looks and that I was only going to go offroad once in while... She finally said, well,, go get your truck evaluated there and we'll see, but you'll have to stop ...no more modification on it or else we cancel everything..! I have 2 cars and my house on them. Never claimed anything, have a clean record and have been with them for propably 10 years... What are your experiences....does your insurer know about your modifs...???how r us insured ?? (full or only 1 side..) how about fire, and stealing.. S.

I would not wait a week...shaking could eventually damage your wheel bearings and /or diff bearing etc... balancing wheels over 30 inches is always less forgiving on balance errors etc...when you get 32, 33 etc.. with a little treads with either all terrain (like yours) or mud terrain, then usually you get better results by trying to turn the tire many times until you find the best match between the tire and mag that require the less weight. Yes it takes more time per wheel but fixes the shaking problem usually...eventhough the tire was showing as being ballanced... So on my previous path I had the equivalent of your all terrain and was having the same problem. at highway speed, the steering was shaking real bad but not at normal city speed... So I went back to the guy, explained it to him, and he told me "we're going to rebalance them". He inflated the tire, then check the balance, let's say 2 onces, Then he deflated the tire, turned it 1/4 turn on the rim, then reflated and rechecked again... He did this until he had found the position where it was needing the less weight. At the end I ended up with no tire needing more than 1/2 once. This made the shaking disapear. Keep in mind that all this was done on the same machine then previously... So you wont need to go to another place, but you might need to ask the person in charge there that this is what you would like to do... I have found something interresting also...I'm going to have my new tires balanced friday and have found a shop near my home that can also do dynamic balancing using Xact product : http://www.imiproducts.com/xact/index.aspx I have decided to go mud terrain, so if they cannot get in on the dot for me with conventional balancing, I will give this a try... I'll let you know when it's done.. Cheers !

I know, but if you would have hear it last winter, you would have tought that my engine was transformed into a miling machine...SCREEEEEAAACHHHHHH!! ... I ordered the parts at the end of winter...that's why...

I know the rad is full and the reserve does not lower... The noise is kinda hard to figure out because it only does it when all the right conditions are met, but i'll try to descibe it as best as i can.. 1) only happens when the truck has been stop for a long period (overnight) 2) when outside temperature is about 2C and above, I will hear a metal against metal noise, very faint though. but constant. It kinda disapear within 5 minutes or so 3) when the temp is well below -5 or -10C, the noise will be more a high pitch metal to metal..screeeeeechhh, constant for about 10 seconds, then back to the "regular" metal-to-metal noise.. now this is very faint, I'm the only one really that can hear it because I know my machine and I know there is something going on... but my mechanic cannot here it... Well, he does not know what the path sounds like without the noise, so he cannot compare... It's not a big thing, but I know something's not right...It will probably let itself know more as the time passes, but I would have liked to fix it before I hit the trails...now the weather is warming up and I hear it less and less....So I might not be able to diagnose it before the cold temp comes back...ho well... So now, I have 2 brand new idler pulleys and 2 new belts....So it's either the dampener (looks really good though), the AC compressor, the alternator, water pump or the fan clutch... am i missing anything ?? I'll try the spray thing on the pulley..tks... Here's the thing, on the 2004 radio there is no aux button...When you plug something in the aux port at the back, then by pressing multiple times on the "radio" button, it will alternate between "AM", "FM1", "FM2","SAT". When there is nothing plugged at the back, the "SAT" part just never comes... So to be sure I would have to buy my 100$ gizmo "PAC AAI-NIS2" then see if it goes in... I would rather have someone confirm it first... S.

anyone has a sirius ou xm radio hooked on the oem nissan 2004 radio ? If so, when you choose the sat radio , do the antenna goes back down or not? I ask this because I would eventually like to plug the output of my cb in the aux of the radio (where the sat radio plugs), but I do not want to do this is the antenna does not go back in...it'l just brake in the trail.. Also, The fan clutch....2 questions.... I had a metal-on-metal noise coming from some on the pulley only when the weather is below 0 and thought it was my idler pulleys. I changed both of them and the noise is still there. So now I'm thinking it's coming from the fan clutch assembly...Anyone had this before ? Also, Just wandering how this clutch works if it goes in water... I mean, it there is restriction on it, like water etc.., can the clutch release the pressure and stop the fan from turning, then resume when there is no more water/restriction ? how does it work ?? S.

What I meant, is that inside the piaa box, there is a relay and a separate fuse holder...not a fuse inside the relay.. English me bad speak... S.

I think everyone has a good reason for either the ac or the OME...120mph on the dunes..... I want a video of that ..! On my part, it will be slow crawling kinda trails... so ac will do fine....

I say B. Until we can put some cornay joints or something, the fragile point of the r50 will be the cv. I say, to fix the top out, you buy a bull/bar / custom bumper and install a 80-100 LBS winch. Not only you will not top out anymore, but you'll be an instant star among your trail friends :-) Just having fun here ...

understood...