fleurys

These are a pain to ship... not sure what to think about that..

I am at the final stages of fabrication for a new product for the Sub Frame Drop 4" crew. A rear 1/4" aluminium plate with the proper angles in it that will fit with the rest of my products for a complete solution for under armor. With this final piece of the puzzle, you can have the entire under-body covered from front to back. Pricing coming soon, check the website next week. Cheers. Steve.

It's 25$ for the hardware but then you have to pay for the app... So I guess you need to make sure that you get an app that can read misfire count with this hardware.... I personally use the autel md802 and I have no experience with these bafx products... sorry

misfire count can be seen with an obd2 scanner.. You will be able to see this real time. A vacuum leak is basically a hole in the air path after the mass air flow or around the air intake gasket etc... A visual inspection can be sometime hard to do if it is a small leak.. The best way I feel is using a smoke machine... you can build yourself one for small amount of $.. check youtube on that (diy smoke machine). The fuel trim (short and long) are what the computer is trying to do in order to compensate either for a lean or rich condition. Again this is monitored using a obd2 scanner... If you do not have (or have access) to an obd2 scanner, you can still test a few things but you will need to be able to duplicate the issue while you start troubleshooting.. (like unplugging sparkplug wire and listening if the engine changes sounds or not... etc... But I would try to get a scanner first...

I would probably start by looking at misfire count and see if it's coming from 1 or more cylinders. If it's one cylinder I would investigate for either a low compression in that cylinder or faulty injector. If the misfire counts shows that it is all around, then I would look for a vacuum leak after the maf or the distributor cap (even if it has been changed)... Your short term fuel trim will also speak to you.. At that point, you would definitely need an obd2 tool so that you can see what is going on.. or else, you'll just play the replace part game....

There is a difference between flushing and simply changing the oil. A transmission shudder is exactly the symptoms that you stated. If it is the problem and you do not do anything, you will eventually kill your transmission, so for me it makes no doubts you should try to save it and change the oil and filter. There is still about 50% of the oil that will still be in the torque converter and will mix with the new oil. With this you will see if it gets better or not.... Go watch transmission shudder videos on youtube and see if your issue is the same... You will eventually have to change your trans oil....

When is the last time you changed your transmission oil ? This sounds like trans shudder...

There is a full diagnostic procedure for the electronic hvac in the Factory service manual page HA-45. With that you will be able to test everything on it from led to mode and intake door motor as the input signals too. I suspect the mode motor which is under the steering wheel, on the right (directly on the left underside of the center dash).. With the fsm, you will also be able with an voltmeter, to test if the motor is still good or if it is a piece of something that is stuck in there... s.

If I were you, the first thing I would buy is a diagnostic tool... or else you might just play the replace part game until you run out of money.... What I mean is that you need to know what is going on with your air/fuel ratio. For this you will need to know the amount of air coming in (MAF reading ), then the fuel pressure (to rule out a defective fuel pump), then you need to know what the computer is trying to do to fix the lean condition (this will show as your short and long term fuel trim data).. As the same time you can check if any misfire are in the package and start from there... Right now you're going blind at it and it can only get worse... just my 2 cents... S.

Like , xplorx4 said, I like his method alot better because if you are running any camber bolts, you just screwed up your alignment with the method showed in the video... that's more money to fork out for an alignment that is not necessary... the method from xplorx4 is the method I use also...

Think of it in the following manner... If you have a, let's say 5000 lbs to move upward a hill... If your truck is a normal 4x4 on , then you will have 1 wheel in front and 1 wheel in the rear pulling and pushing... That makes roughly 2500lbs of weight to move per axle... compare it to the same 5000lbs with a set of lockers... that makes 1250lbs per axle to pull/push the same weight. that's what I mean by less strenuous. also, being locked changes the way you approach difficult obstacles... you go at it slowly and usually do not need the skinny pedal action... most of the breaking axles are done when the wheel goes from fast spinning to suddenly gripping (or getting traction).... when you're locked, all your wheel have the same wheel speed (traction or not)...so these fast change of rotation do not happen any more..

Same here... actually being locked is a lot less strenuous on the hardware as now every corner is pulling, not just one... so you can go at it easy and slow and just crawl your way,...

That's pretty cool.... Do you have any pictures with the hoses hooked up on all 4 ?

I did do something like this... I did not wanted to drill a hole for a full blown snorkel... You'll see in the post... enjoy.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25150-my-new-selectable-air-intake-with-a-little-extra/?p=460747

Getting air in AFTER your maf could definitely cause a too lean mixture and even misfire..... Do you have any reading of your O2 sensors (via obd2) ?

I had the same thing with my 2001 at one time... I looked at all the usual suspects like you... ended up being the inner tie-rod ends... Even when I removed them I was not sure as they were still stiff, but after changing them, the problem was gone instantaneously.. I guess you can't really wiggle them by hand and find if they are done or not when the problem only occurs over a bump.. This means it takes alot of pressure in a fast burst for the problem to occur... I will try to find the post on it.. I'm pretty sure I did write about it in here.. S,.

For me , I used the A pillar for my roof lights. Everything fitted properly under the weather rubber strip... then the wires come out around the B pillar.. I put a small dab of black silicone and I never had any water come in between or under the weather strip.. here's a few pics..

from the main site, click on <closeouts> button on the lower left....then choose nissan... it's the only product there.

Yep.. Welcome back !

This is a graphic that I used before to explain how the camber bolts work... But I would still go to an alignment shop so they can dial the camber bolts to bring your camber to specs...

I have been using the ingalls one (81260) since 2009 now and they have been great. It's funny when you talk about the old timer... I think you will have more chance of having a good alignment with an <old timer> that have probably seen camber bolts then a new guy out of school.. Just my 2 cents... Cheers.

sfcreation.com

The guy in question was having issues with is transfer case that were not related to the hubs.. Me and many others have been running hubs with the atx14a TC with no issues and no 4x4 light..

I doubt nissan will repair this after your welded plate... Keep us informed if you decide to go to nissan for the recall

Yeah ... Your comment about the air gap combined with the rust gave me the idea of cleaning the knuckle .. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk