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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST


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Everything posted by fleurys

  1. No we do not have them anymore. We used to have them in my first versions of the plates, but most customers were not willing to pay for the work involved. Cheers. S.
  2. bank 1 is passenger, bank 2 driver. sensor 1 is before cat, sensor 2 after. I recently did both sensor 1 on my 2003. The driver side one is easy to do as you can easily see and touch it from the engine bay. The passenger side is simply a matter of luck in my opinion... I was unable to touch it with my hands so much it was down there... I got myself a set of o2 sensor sockets, and was able to reach it with 2 extensions and a lot of patience... Once the sensor was broke loose, I used the wire to unscrew it... Installation was reverse... Since I could not reach by hand the o2 sensor hole, I had to drop it from the extensions in the hole, then use the wire to start the threads and eventually torque it with the socket... it is very sketchy to do on the passenger side.. It helps to do it while the truck is still warm. Good luck
  3. Goo Good eye ! yes the last one is my now gone (due to rust) pathy. In that configuration, it was the AC coils..that was before I started the spacers company. Yes it was 265/75 and for the wheel spacers they were 1.25". Cheers.
  4. That's exactly the treatment I give to any new R50 I buy right off the bat... this will prevent any worries in the long run.. I might add one more thing... since you have a 2001, the IACV has a small rubber gasket that with time will crack and let coolant pass and possibly short the idle air control valve assembly. Once the IACV is fried, there's a super good chance it will fry your ecm.. I think it give a PO505 code or something... so since you will have everything in your hands, I would replace the IACV gasket.. It costs like 2-3$ and will save you probably 100 times this amount... I personally did it on my 2001. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5642058&cc=1432945&jsn=379
  5. The lower intake adds 4 bolts to remove..that's it... and from there you will be able to change your pcv valve... this is a known cause for oil consumption. (it fixed my oil issue on all 3 of mine....) So I say go for both.... (also, make sure to check your crossover hose for crankcase ventilation...make sure it is not clogged with caked oil... You will see it when the lower intake is removed also... Cheers.
  6. I have now 3 R50's in my driveway.....so I know how to do this almost with my eyes closed.... I did it on all 3 of them and I was lucky...All the bolts and plate were there... You do not need a special tool, but one tool in particular will save you ALOT of time... It is a ratchet wrench with a head that pivots... I do not remember now if it was the 10mm or 12mm. You will need this to remove the 2 bolts that are attached to a bracket that is behind the lower intake... It is so near the firewall and you have to either take a very short wrench or use one that can pivot... I kid you not, on my first try, with the tools I had a the time (before I got the pivot wrench), it took me almost an hour to remove these 2 bolts.... with the special wrench....5 minutes.... here's what I am talking about... sorry for not remembering if it is 10 or 12.... (if you can afford it, buy both of them.. ? https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-Flex-Head-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B0002SR058 Also, take this opportunity to change your pcv valve... it is right there on your left once the intakes are off... you won't regret this...
  7. Super interesting... I am about to start the same kind of resto on my new acquisition... great pictures. tks !
  8. The spacer goes at the bottom and sits directly on the steel support. Remove any rubber. You need a stable platform for the spacer I cant help you for the tire question...i simply do not know. Sorry
  9. https://sfcreation.com/t/pathfinder-90-95-wd21-platform Will have some in stock in about a week. Inventory has been sold out. S.
  10. here you go.. (You will need to remove the door panel.then...
  11. Thank you...but it seems that we just found our man with K9sar.. Discussions are already in process. Thank you for your interest !
  12. Welcome !... For your abs issues, if you do not have obd2 reader that reads them, you can always revert to the manual way... here`s how to retrieve the abs code for your 2001 : SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE NABR0097S02 1. Drive vehicle over 30 km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute. 2. Turn ignition switch OFF. SBR665E 3. Ground terminal 9 of data link connector with a suitable harness. 4. Turn ignition switch ON while grounding terminal 9. Do not depress brake pedal. SBR676E 5. After 3.0 seconds, the warning lamp starts flashing to indicate the malfunction code No. (See NOTE.) 6. Verify the location of the malfunction with the malfunction code chart. Refer to BR-54. Then make the necessary repairs following the diagnostic procedures. 7. After the malfunctions are repaired, erase the malfunction codes stored in the control unit. Refer to BR-42. 8. Rerun the self-diagnostic results mode to verify that the malfunction codes have been erased. 9. Disconnect the check terminal from the ground. The self-diagnostic results mode is now complete. 10. Check warning lamp for deactivation after driving vehicle over 30 km/h (19 MPH) for at least one minute. 11. After making certain that warning lamp does not come on, test the ABS in a safe area to verify that it functions properly. NOTE: The indication terminates after 5 minutes. However, when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to ON, the indication starts flashing again. (BR-54) below Code No. (No. of warning lamp flashes) Malfunctioning part Reference Page 12 Self-diagnosis could not detect any malfunctions. — 17 H4 G sensor and circuit BR-65 18 H1 Sensor rotor BR-56 21 H1 Front right sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 22 H1 Front right sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 25 H1 Front left sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 26 H1 Front left sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 31 H1 Rear right sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 32 H1 Rear right sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 35 H1 Rear left sensor (open-circuit) BR-56 36 H1 Rear left sensor (short-circuit) BR-56 41 Actuator front right outlet solenoid valve BR-59 42 Actuator front right inlet solenoid valve BR-59 45 Actuator front left outlet solenoid valve BR-59 46 Actuator front left inlet solenoid valve BR-59 55 Actuator rear outlet solenoid valve BR-59 56 Actuator rear inlet solenoid valve BR-59 57 H2 Power supply (Low voltage) BR-63 61 H3 Actuator motor or motor relay BR-61 63 Solenoid valve relay BR-59 71 Control unit BR-68 ABS works frequently — BR-69 Unexpected pedal action — BR-69 Long stopping distance — BR-71 ABS does not work — BR-71 Pedal vibration and noise — BR-72 Warning lamp does not come on when ignition switch is turned ON. Fuse, warning lamp bulb or warning lamp circuit Control unit BR-73 Warning lamp stays on when ignition switch is turned ON. Control unit power supply circuit Warning lamp bulb circuit Control unit or control unit connector Solenoid valve relay stuck Power supply for solenoid valve relay coil BR-75 Vehicle vibrates excessively when ABS is operating. ABS control unit to TCM circuit BR-78 H1: If one or more wheels spin on a rough or slippery road for 40 seconds or more, the ABS warning lamp will illuminate. This does not indicate a malfunction. Only in the case of the short-circuit (Code Nos. 26, 22, 32 and 36), after repair the ABS warning lamp also illuminates when the ignition switch is turned ON. In this case, drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 30 km/h (19 MPH) for approximately 1 minute as specified in “SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE”, BR-41. Check to ensure that the ABS warning lamp goes out while the vehicle is being driven. H2: The trouble code “57”, which refers to a low power supply voltage, does not indicate that the ABS control unit is malfunctioning. Do not replace the ABS control unit with a new one. BR-42 Below HOW TO ERASE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (MALFUNCTION CODES) NABR0097S04 1. Disconnect the check terminal from ground (ABS warning lamp will stay lit). 2. Within 12.5 seconds, ground the check terminal three times. Each terminal ground must last more than 1 second. The ABS warning lamp goes out after the erase operation has been completed. 3. Perform self-diagnosis again. Refer to BR-41. Only the startcode should appear, no malfunction codes.
  13. unfortunately, no one has.... i'm starting to ask myself if there is any R51 owner that uses them to go off-road or has it just died with the r50 (pathfinder models I'm talking here)... I guess the next step is to go facebook, but I wanted to get someone here who is more implicated in the scene...
  14. Yes... I let the thing rest inside a bath of metal rescue for 24 hours. That pretty much removed the rust but did not free the pin... I tried a few hits with the hammer...no go :-( So I decided to sacrifice it for the benefit of everyone here :-)... The circle in the middle is a thin steel plate that I removed with a screwdriver... simply pulling on it... looks like it was welded or something..not sure but it came out with little force. You can see on the picture the arm that is suppose to rotate and this aligns with the square opening to let the liquid go through... I tried rotating the pin from this side and it would not budge... ho well... time to find another... cheers.

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