fleurys

UP for this new product.... We have inventory ready to ship.. S.

In case you might consider rear coil spacers, check here : http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.php (near the bottom of the page).. Reasonably priced and fully modular. S.

The missing link is not a good commercial product. I made mine with off-road in mind and i just could not get near the price jackson was selling his, even though it was build completely differently... I doubt people would pay 100$ for something they can build differently for 20$. ... I refuse to make something cheap just for the sake of making money... A reputation takes years to build and can be crushed in a few hours... I'd rather pass on this product...

No.. The 100$ is a deposit. I'm looking for customers that are willing to commit 100$ to get the skidplate. If i get 6 deposits , i will restart the production of the skidplate and make it a permanent product. If not, i will drop the project and refund those who gave the deposit. On the other hand , if you gave a deposit and that at production time you do not want the skidplate anymore, like any other deposit, i keep it. --- thanks for question. I edited the original post to clarify it ---

Thank you So much !

I don't know this forum.... can you pass me the info of the link in pm please? Thanks. S.

Sorry..no intention of making them...

By popular demand, I have decided to bring back one of my old product that was retired because the time and effort for the profit was just not there. Therefore I have decided to cut on some features but refused to bring down the quality of the material. The front skid plate that I will soon offer will have these features: 1) 1/4" aluminum. I went with this for many reasons. If you ever had to do an oil change while having to remove a 45lbs steel plate, you know what I mean. The weight is just to much and it is not tougher than 1/4" aluminum on the trail. My plate will weigh around 16lbs. Second reason : RUST. Even if you paint a steel plate, it will rust the first time you scratch it. This is continual maintenance that I feel unnecessary. 2) Slotted holes. This will help with the installation 3) Powdercoated finish. All plates will be powdercoated black. The reason for this is that aluminum does not always have a great finish coming from the factory. They sometimes have scratches etc.. Buffing the plate to a mirror finish takes time and costs money. Powdercoating offers the best weather and off-road protection while giving a top notch finished look. *** THIS SKIDPLATE WILL NOT FIT A PATHFINDER THAT HAS A SFD (SUB FRAME DROP) LIFT KIT INSTALLED. *** The price for the plate will be 215 USD$ Shipping (USA and Canada) and hardware included. In order to get the product back, I need at least 6 pre-order. I will let this opened until the end of august and if the demand is there, I will restart the production and start shipping during september For the pre-order, I ask for a deposit of 100$USD. Of course if the 6 pre-order are not achieved, you will get refunded in full. If on the other hand, you do not want the skidplate once the production has started, i keep the deposit If you are interested in pre-ordering , simply send me the following details at steve_fleury3-at-yahoo.com or by private messages. 1) Full name 2) complete shipping address 3) email address for paypal invoice (if different from the one you are writing from) 4) daytime phone number (for delivery company) PRE-ORDER LIST - (6 needed for production) 1) Richard Taylor (PAID ** special Edition - RED ** 2) Reid Graham (PAID) 3) Cola Richard Nelson Jr. (PAID) 4) Dustin Pridham (PAID) 5) Rayce Rybin - (PAID) 6) Virgil D. (PAID) ** WE HAVE A NEW PRODUCT ! ** 7) Lee Jernigan - (PAID) 8) Richard Bogusky - (PAID) 9) David Cleveland- (PAID) 10) Kyle Akre - (PAID) 11) Kevin Chim - (PAID) 12) Dan Fasanella - (PAID)

Don,t see anything in my email... Please try again or send by pm. S.

Here's a summary of the installation of the front spacers (the rear simply inserts between the coil and coil seat) : - raise the truck - remove wheel - remove the 3 top bolts that retains the strut. They are under the hood, where the strut tower is. - remove the 2 big bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle. This is where the break rotor is. - remove the strut - compress spring - dismantle the strut by removing the top nut - take the top plate (the one with the bolts pressed fit in) and bring it to a vise where the plate is sitting and you can hammer out the bolts - install the spacer on the top plate by threading the spacers with the longer bolts supplied - re-install the top plate on the strut by screwing the top nut. At that point you have in this order from bottom to top : strut,top plate,spacer - release the spring tension from the compressor -re-install the strut. You will need some camber bolts in order to have an alignment. I personally use the ones from ingalls : https://www.ingallseng.com/81260-14mm-fastcam-bolts_pair.html

I do provide a summary of the steps needed to install the spacers.

At first look, your springs seems installed wrong... Like if they were not clocked properly... They seems compressed and bent when they should be almost straight and relaxed.... Did you align the notch on the coil-top-seat plate with the L or R on the top plate ?? This is super important as it will clock (or align) the spring properly in the assembly... Check here for some pictures : http://s435.photobucket.com/user/steve_fleury3/library/suspension%20project Also, it's like if your spring are missing a row... Check with my pictures of the same AC coils... S. ***EDIT** I made a mistake... The upper spring seat plate has a cutout... it needs to face the inner side of the truck AND be aligned with either L or R on the top (L being driver side, R passenger)

Hey Dustin. Do you have pictures of the install, maybe I could spot something...

You have to put yourself in my shoes... Even if I think that you would probably not have any problem putting 2.5" in the front, i cannot guarantee it. We did not test it. Like I said, I had more than one customer go this route with success. I don't take back spacers that have been installed unless they are defective (fabrication defect). So if worse comes to worse and it does not work, you could buy a 1" spacer front pair and replace the 1.5" with it... Steve.

I think I just answered your email....?? I usually do not recommend going higher then 2" front spacers since this is the highest we have tested with our test truck. That being said, I had a few customer who went this route with success while having OEM coil springs. I do remember one user here who tried 2" spacers with the ironman springs. I believe this turned out that he had to remove 1" spacer in order to prevent binding in the passenger cv. So you see, it's not a science, but I tried as much a s possible to bring a modular system that people can custom dial their lift. To answer your question, If you go 2.5" front, it should get you around 3" of lift. For the rear, the lift ratio is 1:1, so a 2.5" spacer will raise your rear 2.5". In your case, this would mean your front would be a little higher than the rear. S.

AZ, The fact that your rear is lower than my test truck is simply because your rear coils have collapsed a little bit more. That being said, it has nothing to do with shocks, as shocks only absorb the road bumps. You could remove your shocks all together and your truck would not be an inch lower...The work of supporting the rear of your truck is done by your coil springs ... Now if you sit at 33" in front and put 2" spacers, this will bring the front to around 35.5". If you want to level your truck at the rear, you simply have to order a 3" rear spacer kit. If you want to have a small rake (higher in the rear than the front), you could go with a 3.5" rear spacer kit. On the other hand if you prefer the nose up look, then you simply go with a 1.5" front spacer... Hopefully it's clearer now ! Cheers.

They have been originally designed for a below the coil installation.... but more than a few have been putting them above without issues... S.

on my part, it`s at a auto part store that is a moog reseller... But I have to say, it happened to me too that I bought a moog tie-rod, and what was in the box was NOT the moog model... Lucky for me I had the picture and part number on a piece of paper and was able to show the clerk that this box had been somehow tempered with... He ordered me a new one and the the right part was in.... so it`s a gamble if you have the part shipped i guess.

i`m pretty sure he only ships to USA and canada... you`re probably talking about alkorahil (something like that ..)

Hi.. I used moog ball joints in the past with very good results..They are still on my rig..

They only have been tested for the bottom... I don't have a truck available for testing if they fit on the top of the coil... sorry.. S.

not sure I understand the question ....?? can you re-phrase ?

Well, I know for the R50 the seat is flat, and from the pictures and tests that I got from my helper, the seat of the WD21 is flat also... Here's a picture of it.. is that what you meant ?

We have a new product for sale and it's for the WD21 crowd ! Looking for an economic way of lifting the rear of your pathfinder.. look no more... - Fully cnc machined from 1 piece of solid HDPE - Modular - you can add spacers after your initial purchase without losing your investment - Will not rust, will not deform, supports temperature range from -58 F to +176 F - Easy installation Get more information at http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.php (bottom of the page)

Alright...... New product is now available to purchase at the website. Offerings are in steps of 1" only for now... So 1", 2", 3" etc.. Fully modular, you add the height you need since they stack one on top of each other, Full details on the webpage here : http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.php (bottom of the page) here's a few pictures: