fleurys

yes.. all this assumes that you will not be using the AUTO settings on the transfer case... When you put hubs and that they are unlocked, you have to remember not to use the 4x4... What would happen is this : if you roll at 60mph and your hubs are unlocked, it means your front axles (half shafts and front driveshaft) do not turn. If you were to engage 4hi, you can imagine what kind of bang it would create as the clutch in the transfer case transfer the power to the front driveshaft... from 0 to 60 in no time :-). .... On the other hand if you do it while your stopped, there is no damage... (I did it a few time, forgetiing my hubs were unlocked..) Cheers. S.

The spacers are available but not the missing link... I have put the production of this item and the skidplates on hold until further notice... Sorry. S.

They do not cause any issue... this myth came from me a one point in time when I saw that the Transfer case gears were getting lubricated by the rotation of the main driveshaft. I wrongly assumed the FSM was talking about the front driveshaft....but it is the rear driveshaft that lubricates the transfer case gears by turning the transfer case oil pump.... I have hubs on my 2001 with no problems what so ever.. S.

You need to be able to remove your strut in the front and your springs at the back (or at least compress them) in order to install the spacers. The front spacers fits over the top plate, but since you need to change the bolts (for longer ones), you will need a spring compressor in order to disassemble your strut. You then thread the spacers on top of your top plate and then re-assemble your strut. I don't think it is terribly complicated, but if some of my previous customers can chime in, I would really appreciate... There is nothing like customer feedback ! You do dot need to add anything else to achieve the 2 inch lift. The hardware is included. S.

For the lift, save some money and try our HDPE spacers. see here : http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php S.

Save money and lift it with hdpe spacers... Huge savings from going the ac springs or ome route .. Have a look here : http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php S. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm happy to present to you the most easy and affordable way to level or lift your R50. Basically for years, there has been only two solutions : lift with AC springs for a 2" lift or Krypton Fab for 4". Krypton Fabrication is a great company and if you are looking for a 4" lift kit, they have a great product that will work for you. My hat to you guys ! On the other hand, AC springs, although of good quality, are costly. They also bring a new problem of their own called top-out. This is when the strut reaches it's maximum extension by making a loud noise. This is caused because the lift is reach by putting stiffer coils. By doing so, the unibody of the R50 sits higher on it's springs...but is also mean that the struts are almost at maximum extension....not good... (I know for a fact since I had , myself, to install limiting straps to prevent this problem). 4x4design.com now offers you a new low cost alternative for a 2" and lower lift. HDPE spacers have been around for many years and have been proven to work. Daystar is a good example that has been making spacers with aluminium , then changed to 'durathane'. This is their own recipe of polyurethane. Spacers are great also because you keep you plush ride since you do not have to change expensive coils with stiffer ones !. Top-out is not a problem since you do not over-extent your struts. For a complete comparison of 3 different spacers kit (with pictures), check out on the web site : http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php . From there you will SEE what different spacers give how much lift. From there, you will be able to order the right lift for you and your activities. It can go from a simple rear spacers only for towing or full front and rear lift. You can also use them to level your truck on the front. Come see for yourselves ! http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php Before lift: After 2" all around Steve.

check you oil cooler in that area.... the seal pretty much almost always fail... (it`s a round thing with hoses coming in and out of it..)

Something must be wrong cause abs is disabled when you go in 4 lo.... I.m sure i read that in the fsm(brake section) ... Good luck Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think it`s a good idea... and contrary to rebelord, I would not go with plastidip... This stuff does not resist at all to branches and scrapes that might occurs when you offroad (if you do)... i would like to see the finish result... very interesting idea. S.

I'll try.... - raise the truck - remove wheel - remove the 3 top bolts that retains the strut. They are under the hood, where the strut tower is. - remove the 2 big bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle. This is where the break rotor is. - remove the strut - compress spring - dismantle the strut by removing the top nut - take the top plate (the one with the bolts pressed fit in) and bring it to a vise where the plate is sitting and you can hammer out the bolts - install the spacer on the top plate by threading the spacers with the longer bolts supplied - re-install the top plate on the strut by screwing the top nut. At that point you have in this order from bottom to top : strut,top plate,spacer - release the spring tension from the compressor -re-install the strut. You will need some camber bolts in order to have an alignment. I personally use the ones from ingalls : http://www.ingallseng.com/81260-14mm-fastcam-bolts_pair.html

Install them, but cut a small hole at the bottom of them to let the water drain and prevent rust on the shaft...which will later cause seal failure... anyway, that's what I do... S.

good story... ! :-) note to self : check the fuses !

dont change your springs.... i;m making spacers exactly for your situation... I will have a 2 inch front spacer very soon, and i already offer 1 and 1.5 inches for the front...which will net you a little more than the height of the spacer... for the back I will offer stackable spacers that you can combine to make the height you want... check here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36590-4x4designcom-new-products-front-hdpe-spacers/

if you have this setting than you should be able to do it yourself if it's only the camber that is to be done... I did mine myself and basically used the two camber bolts per side at their maximum settings in order to get my wheel straight... If you have an issue with the toe, than it's another story.... Good luck.

unless you have damaged suspension items, they should be able to align your truck. I don't know your setup, but if you have ac springs and a spacer on top, then you might need (like me) 2 camber bolts PER side in order to be able to align it .... If you only have AC spring, then your should be able to do it with only 1 bolt per side... Go somewhere else... like a garage who does custom truck or parts etc....

get yourself a pair of camber bolts and go somewhere else... S.

Looking at their 40mm strut, I say it`s not for the right truck.... wrong attachment at the spindle...( if the picture is accurate of the product they sell..)

yakima...

I will send you a quote without the plate and welded nuts... As for the shipping price, they are right if you live in canada.... and use Canada Post to ship... In the US, shipping is so cheap, it's not even funny ! LOL S.

I guess that's one of the reason Jackson does'nt make them anymore... and mine cannot be compared (no offense). Mine can be used to go offroading without fearing to bend it if you hit rocks or high center the truck... S.

for the sleeves, I just learned something ! Go here : http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/vq35de.shtml and navigate by clicking on the camshaft or pistons, misc, etc... this is all that is available for the vq35de and you will see in the misc section, the darton sleeves are available there... hope this helps.. S.

http://www.cleggengine.com/nissan-3-5l-vq35de-pathfinder-dohc-24v-01-04-engine-rebuild-kits.html for rebuild kit... There is others i'm sure... If your engine suffered the dreaded valve screws falling in the intake, you cylinder walls might scored and scratch therefore letting the oil pass the rings. I doubt this engine is using cylinder sleeves.. others can chime in to confirm this.. If I were you I would start listing any junkyard for a used engine... I will search a bit for you to see if I can find any web sites listing those...

if you are not changing your internals (diff core, spider gears etc... ) for a stronger one (like ARB, Yukon etc..), then I would invest in metal treatment. http://www.thermetco.com/en/node/37 Contact these guys or other similar companies and try discussing with them what treatment would be adequate for a ring gear or even axles... etc... I also remember steevo here (rugged rocks) offering at one point some chromoly axles...

ask someone to press the break pedal for you....don't forget to bring back the torque to 0 when you're done....or you'll be re-doing this all over very soon ! :-)