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fleurys

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Everything posted by fleurys

  1. borinabarn...check your pm... Waiting on your ok. S.
  2. so long...come visit sometimes.. S.
  3. I feel your pain... I started 4x4design.com exactly for that reason.... guess what... I'm building a bumper too.... I would have like it so much to just have to pick and choose... Ho well...
  4. I don't take it bad.... Seriously I was genuinely happy when you found this... I have to say though I do not share everything you said... You see, the rear spacers, my cost to have someone make them is alot higher that you think... I<m gonna be straight with you.. I make 20$ in profit for the rear , and the front spacers, I am thinking of stopping all this because last time I made 8$. They cost me 132 $ a pair to have them made....They are not even powdercoated at that price... so 90$ is really out of the questions You have to understand that I do not order 20 at a time, because they just don't sell that much... so I just offer the service for others that do not have time to search for a machinist etc... I wish I had the machinery that you have, because yes, at that point I would be making more.... but then you have to pay the machine monthly payment too.... Maybe you should offer your talent and machinery and make some.. I would have been the first one to buy...
  5. Well, These I already have.... I'll sell you a pair if you want... :-)
  6. There goes my new product :-( , But I applaud for the find.... To bad you did not find this before I worked my AS* off to make my aluminium ones.... I could have saved a lot of trouble and work... Ho well ... Now find me a front bumper that will work on my r50 so I don't have to make it ! :-)
  7. am i the only one thinking this makes no sense whatsoever ?? Adama, The control arms's job is to retain the rear axle in it's place... It has no effect on the height nor on preventing bottoming out.... I understand when you are saying that everything is ok now.... but I don't understand why the control arms would fix the issues you are saying... anyone else ?
  8. can you post the amaautoparts sku or part number for us please ?
  9. XPLORx4, I,m the one who had started the comment about hubs and auto dial (It's actually having the atx14a transfer case). In the FSM it was stated that the TC was being lubricated by the MAIN shaft. This is where I had made the mistake of assuming the main shaft being the front driveshaft. We all agreed at the end that it was the rear main shaft that was actuating the oil pump, therefore putting the myth to rest... S.
  10. Last time I felt a clunck like this, it was my tie-rods.... I could not believe it at first when someone here suggested it because I had check them and could not feel any clunk or loose or anything... After changing both inner tie-rods, the clunk was gone... I will try to find the post here somehwere...
  11. yes they would go there... By degree, I mean more of the angle your shaft would be... By decreasing the space between the diff flange and the wheel hub, you will reduce the over extension, but the shaft has to 'bend' more to reach.. simple rule.
  12. Would a set of half-shaft spacer do the trick for you ? I have a set that I did for myself, but never installed... it's a quarter inch alu material... It will reduce the over extension, but add a bit more degrees . S.
  13. Good luck buddy.. there's nothing that I hate more that some punks stealing others property.... Hope you find your truck....
  14. nice.... I thought you were going to snap the rear driveshaft or ujoint on the rocks...but I was wrong ! You climbed this like a champ !.... give us more now ! S.
  15. if you dont break your shaft, then dont change them... put a boot that will last ... made from thermoplastics : http://www.rockfordcv.com/Nissan_bootkits.htm install and forget... I have been running these for near 2 years now, all year long (winter and all), and there is absolutely no signs of wear... by that time, the normal neoprene would have serious cracks in it...
  16. you could also buy the 54329N from nissan. This will be your template... just make it 1 inch thick...
  17. If you off road and want to permanently fix it like me, I offer those.... pm me if you want more details.
  18. yes ... .a Sub Frame Drop brings down the sub frame (where the diff is attached), but with the included strut spacers, you bring up the body... On a unibody like the r50, it means everything raises... So after a 4" SFD, you have not raised an inch in ground clearance if you keep the same tires. S.
  19. ground clearance and SFD are not automatic... I just want to make this myth disappear a bit... I have nothing against the product but it needs to be said... front ground clearance under the front diff : example : with 29" stock tires = 8" If you run 33'' with AC springs (2") + 1 inch spacers, your ground clearance goes to : 13" (8 + 3 (suspension) + 4"/2 (tires) If you install a 4 inch sfd with 4" inch strut spacer, you would need to put 39" tires in order to clear the same space under the diff... this is why many install the sfd + the ac springs. this combined with 35" tires will bring the ground clearance also to 13" (8 + 2 + 6"/2) Of course the rear diff clearance is totally related to tire size as it is a solid axle. If ground clearance was one of your concerns, hopefully this will help you. S.
  20. I do offer a few things like suspension spacers, links and skidplates, but not full suspension kits... I think you will have to order from the states... :-(
  21. Good job !..... Now I guess you have a better understanding of the work it takes to make these hahahaha !!
  22. One project coming up is to change my powered antenna.... with the cold in here, if it gets lower than -5, the antenna gets stuck either on the output or coming back in... this prevents me basically from listening to radio for the whole winter.... decided was time to change it.... (also if someone is interested of buying my old one, it works like a champ but only in hot weather... must be a california edition :-) ) Is there anyone with a good flexible antenna (like 1 foot high or so ) with all the information (part number, company, etc..) that I could use to buy it and install it when spring comes up ?? Also, if you needed any adapters or anything please included them in your answer.... Basically looking for a idiot proof buying guide to buy my stuff in advance.. Thanks everyone.. S.
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