fleurys

Then I guess you ARE a good candidate for sas...

I understand, but what I mean is do you actually break the front differential ? the half-shafts ? you break the steering rack ? I mean, couldn't we try to better the stock part we have before thinking of a 5k sas ?

Personnaly, I would like to know who has broken so many parts on his r50 that it requires a SAS ?? really... who offroads that hard with his r50 enough to break the ifs (that is stock by the way) and that would not even try to maybe do better parts for the ifs ? No sure I get what is the big hype about this..

go for it, and change all the rest of the pipes to SS while you're at it ! ( I know I would !) damn rust !

Good move.... It,s always better to do them BEFORE rocker panel damage ! S.

answered by pm to keep thread clean

Yes i did get rid of the reverse thread.. they introduce more cost and the adjustability on the truck was more or less difficult because of the limited space to reach the nut. If with the track bar you mean panhard bar, yes I'm planning on an adjustable one. The part will be able to follow your suspension adjustments as you modify it. S.

Little update on them. The final decisions have been made on these and this is the specs they will have : for the lower links 1) core is still a 2" square bar of T6061-T6 Aluminum 2) Fully adjustable from 1/16th" up to a safe 2" of extra lenght. (1" per side of link) 3) not adjustable on truck. The link needs to be detached from the mount in order to modify the lenght 4) Link ends are made of split poly bushings.Inner sleeve is zinc plated for corrosion. External sleeve (outer), is bare steel and not treated. 5) Poly bushings are greasable and easily rebuildable. 6) There will be an aluminum flat bar welded to the top of them so the client can attach the hand break cable to it. Client will have to drill the holes in the flat bar to the right spot for him. 7) The uhmw skid under remains and so are the stainless steel bolts. 8) No price yet as I'm waiting for the first set to be finished. for the upper links 1) core will be a 1.5" square bar of T6061-t6 Aluminum 2) Fully adjustable from 1/16th" up to a safe 2" of extra lenght. (1" per side of link) 3) not adjustable on truck. The link needs to be detached from the mount in order to modify the lenght 4) Link ends are made of split poly bushings.Inner sleeve is zinc plated for corrosion. External sleeve (outer), is bare steel and not treated. 5) Poly bushings are greasable and easily rebuildable. I should be able to test the new setup in the coming weeks and then start the sale of these new links. In the mean time , here's the latest drawings updated with the bushings and the flat bar... If you have any questions, just ask.. S.

Once you plan to go in water up to your windows, I want to see the video !!! This is special to say the least !

never underestimate me and a ......

patrol without hesitation... full frame, tons of aftermarket support and diesel engine.... I only which I had unlimited budget... I would be driving a patrol...

it could be the front because the r50 have drive flange which means they are always turning the front driveshaft (even in 2wd)... it's just that they do not receive torque from the transfer case.... remove the front drive shaft, stay in 2wd and do a road test.... you;ll know right away... and it takes about 20 minutes to remove it...so no big deal...

does not seems to be the same because I did a search and compare for part numbers between a 99 and a 01 at spectra premium (the one you proposed) and they're not the same... http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/ProduitsVehicules/vehicule/1356791 (here for 99) http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/ProduitsVehicules/vehicule/1432945 (here for 01) *edit** : funilly enough I compared the pictures of both and they are identical... but then again, I cant rely on pictures from a web site really :-(

too bad they don't have any that fit my pathfinder....! ( I just did my search on their site.. :-(

Hi Guys... I will be soon changing my AC condenser and Radiator. The original ones are full of stuff I can't remove anymore and most of the behives are crushed. So I don't need to say that on hot summer days, when offroading, it takes not long before the truck starts to overheat... and doing 4 days of offroad running the heater full blast while having 30+ Celcius days was NOT funny ! At least it made my trail buddies laugh a couple of days ! So has anyone replaced theirs with either all aluminum (radiator) (if they exists) ? any brand to recommend ? I know nothing about radiator or condenser companies as this is the first time for me to change any of the two. Like always , I'm looking to keep the truck so I want oem or better parts. Thanks for the inputs. Steve.

.... it's a planetary tc versus a multiple gears.... totally different... since the problem only occurs on 4l, it looks to me more oriented towards your H-L sleeve and/or the H-L fork... definitely oil change and verify metal shavings.... if there is then it's open time... if you have a second vehicle , I would take my time and open it up... look at the fsm page TF-151, you will see the parts...

I too was looking for it... I have founf a copy through a friend and put it on my file share...: here you go: http://www.4shared.com/office/EVLQulUL/RCRIT-11V244-1111.html

it could be 2 problems also... one could be the electric motor that switches from 2 to 4 and if it has been 'lazzy' like this for an extended period , it might have only partially engage on the last attemps which could have resulted in some gear grinding... and now most probably some gears are damaged ?? definitley, drain the TC oil and use a magnet to pickup anything in there... good luck. S

personally, these would not be enough for the offroad that I do... this is why I made mine boxed to the <frame rails>..

Adam, for god's sake , stop clowning around... it's serious here ! So what do you think... big problem if the links are not ajustable on the truck ?

nice little sunday afternoon ride... ;-) tks.

yep...exactly... one more update.... I have been debating (with myself ), about the necessity of the links being adjustable ON THE TRUCK... This small difference makes the part a bit more costly simply because of having to buy left hand theaded bar... Not having anything local to me, it does impact.. Now with the fact that I will be using bushings and threaded rod, I can control the lenght of the adjustability and have decided to add more than the 1" total limit I had before.... So my question to you : 1) Is it a big deal if the links are still adjustable but just not on the truck, if this is to bring the cost down? Let me know what you think.

summer 2012...

update... The lower links are on the truck now with the bushing at one end and the heim joint at the other... I learned a few things in the process.... 3 of the 4 heim joints were seized solid.... and they don't even have 1 year... There was no rust or anything, but it seems the steel ball may have swollen or god knows what... Anyway, I ended up fixing one seized joint and re-install it with the poly bushings... No more bang and everything fits snuggly... I love it... I will probably do not touch the upper until next spring. For the selling, I will redo my calculation and will offer them with only poly bushings at both ends... but they will stil be fully adjustable... S.

yeah that and at that point, I would simply weld the front and buy a set of warn hubs and be done with it.... You will then have a real locking diff and a street friendly truck with the hubs unlocked... *good suggestion my1path *