fleurys

reading your story makes this issue interesting. Having not seen how a dual fuel system works, I cannot help you with a direct answer, but I can say this: Whatever the problem is , it seems to be related to something that , WITH TIME, starts degrading.... So I would definitely rule out any mechanical component as those usually either work or not. Your instinct to think about something electric could very well be it... If you think it could be related to your battery, try to take a reading of the voltage going to the battery when it happens.... you know if the battery or alternator is acting up on you... I would also check if there is no ecu wires that have either no or less shielding. I have seen in the past that at one point, an ecu with some wires that are almost skinned or damaged, will start acting up on the ecu as it raises it temperature. If you have or could have access to another ecu , it would be also be a good test to make sure nothing in your ecu is causing the issue.. Sorry I could not help more, but I think you are on the right track with something electrical or a sensor that eventually acts up when it starts to heat up..

nope....not yet... next product I will be working on is the 3rd skidplate ...

I did not remembered by heart where the letters were pointing, so I wanted to make sure you aligned the notch on the letter and not necessarily in a specific position related to the truck...

It's not exactly this... They are suppose to be aligned with either the letter L or R on the top plate... did you do that ?

Are you using camber bolts ? I understand that it has been in a ditch, but mine got aligned perfectly with my spacers on with 2 camber bolts per side... S.

Yes you are right.... The driver would have to come out and lock the front for a real tough obstacle.... but then again, welding a diff, especially the front, is a money issue.. I would say if you do not have the money to have the luxury of an arb , then you can weld the front but have to live with the disadvantages that comes with it... I have done many rough trail (rock climbing), and I had to use my front locker maybe 25% of the time.... so I guess with money running low, I would have no problem getting out of my truck to lock the hub.... Not to forget, you can leave 1 of the 2 front wheel locked (like the passenger) and locking the driver side hub is a matter of a few seconds.... compared to the 1500$ or so for an arb, I feel it is a good deal... Again, If you are a good welder do it, or get someone good to do it, or else you will be sorry when you break in the trail because of a bad welding job...

if automatic, make sure there is no clicking noise and oil consumption... power valve screws is a serious engine killer...

yes it should be normal driving. Now that we have determined that the atx14a transfer case lubricates using the rear driveshaft to turn the tc oil pump, welding the front will do just fine. If not having an arb there, this is what I would have done.

Year: 2001 Lift: AC Springs plus 1 inch spacer front + 1 inch spacer rear Wheels:OEM nissan Tires: BFgoodrich KM2 255/85R16 (33,3") Notes: running 1.25" spacers on all 4, Alot of trimming needed to be done both in front and the rear to have no rubbing even under flex.

did you align the top plates with the notches pointing L for driver and R for passenger when you assembled the struts and new springs ?

did you do a road test without the front driveshaft ?? because my ujoints when I had the vibration looked ok too...but they were the problem... S.

yes. read here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25609-spicer-u-joints-vs-oem-nissan/page__hl__neapco#entry481906

One easy test to do is to remove the front drive-shaft. If the vibration goes away, you know it's between the front wheels and the transfer case... I would bet alot of money on the front u-joint... S. look for my post on this.. S.

This is not exactly the one I had found but you get the point : http://www.f150online.com/forums/expedition-navigator/436595-power-inverter-installed-expy.html pretty neat if you ask me ..

I once read a thread on another forum I think where the guy actually removed the front face (where the voltage and the plugs are, and put this part concealed in the cab, while the core of the converter was under the hood... It was very slick and it is actually how I want to do it.... I will try to find the article... S.

You`re sure you searched ... I do use them and fixed my top out issue with it. The straps have been flawless since day one and I do not regret the mod. read on here.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28111-limiting-straps-on-r50/page__hl__%2Blimiting+%2Bstraps

very nice. good work

answered in pm. S.

yes but this will only bring you so far if you offroad a bit.... :-(

before doing my aluminium arms, I replaced the oem with more oem ones.... I thought the same way as you (if they did this long, then I should be ok with more of the same thing).... The real problem or cost if if you have someone else change them for you... If they charge by the hour, it will cost you more than buying the complete arm with bushing from nissan or rockauto.... I went this way at the time (hourly rate), and I think the guy worked like 4 hours on them.... at near 100$ per hours, I was not happy.... I think the complete arms go for about 80$ each........ After that, I created my alu arms because I kept bending the sh*t out of them..... Since then, it did not happen anymore :-)

you can do it without disconnecting anything, but you need to compress the springs with a doh...spring compressor LOL... This is what I did when I installed my coil spacers... Good luck.

sorry for the late response... (pm is always better)... I have found a machinist that will be able to provide me with a good price and finish. The main sets (front and back) are being fabricated as we speak. The pictures will then be taken and the web site modified to add these new products. I run them on my truck since this summer and it's just perfect so, expect the announcement before the end of november. S.

Yeah....it feels good too... I missed driving it a lot.... a 1997 diesel jetta is not exactly the same feeling to drive Tks everyone....

Well... After many months with the truck sitting on jacks, many dollars and many hours, the truck is back on it's feet <wheels> and I couldn't be happier. I guess my first reaction was one of discouragement and being tired of having just too many things to do in a day.... With the help of friends, The truck is now repaired, has 2 new SS braided brake lines and a re-enforced shock tower which is patched with 1/8th sheet metal. I have included some pictures of the work that has been done and also one of the half-shaft that I broke in the climb of the last trail. I have now received my rockford boots and will be replacing the half-shaft tomorrow... just in time for winter that is coming slowly but surely. In this picture you cannot see the issue, but the brake line cut right behind the junction box (square thing) when the shock tower separated. Here's my half shaft after the break... nice clean cut :-) suspension removed, hole made bigger to clean everything. I decided to not reinstall the junction box and bypass it altogether... I then replaced my first brake line that goes to the ABS controller up in the engine bay, Here you see the second line done (that goes just behind the tower shock, and all the surrounding metal cleaned. Right after the plate is welded and some rubberized undercoat is applied. We have also straightened the tower shock as it had shifter a bit... Now with everything back on, rubber grommets on the holes where the lines go through and also a <thing> that keeps the line close to the shock tower wall so it does not get caught in the coil spring.. A good alignement and the truck is operational.. I will probably keep low until next season with it.. I need it for the winter as my diesel VW is not a good vehicle for this kind of weather.... Seems me and pathy are gonna be together a bit more

is it really losing boost ??? I mean, could it be the boost sensor that has gone south ? I don't know exactly how it works, but if there is a signal going to the computer saying the boost is low and putting it in limp mode, then there a sensor voltage somewhere you should be able to look at... just my 2 cents.. good luck.