fleurys

32 will be a stretch.. you will need to cut alot of your front bumper in front of the wheels... of course you loose your mud flaps at the back and will need to trim your flare also. With the AC lift, I had to do all this a little bit...so I can only imagine you with only a spacer in the front. 31'' would definitely be a wiser choice with still trimming to do but I think it would be reasonable. Go look at the thread I started in the r50 about "tire vs lift vs wheels" as the title, you will get some ideas.

I know and for the nord-lock, I think it would be great on any bolt that has to sustain vibration...this sh*t is amazing !

ok.. New update. The links are alive ! Also, while having the beta version on my truck, a real problem showed up... the fact that the jam nut slowly unscrews with vibration was giving me a headache ! Offroad solution has found a way that is patent pending, but at 30$ a jam nut, it was out of the question. see here for the product http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-LINXLOK-EA . I decided that re-tightening every week or so was not something I was willing to live with. I found something that looks very promising and does not cost 30$ (it`s still 30$, but for 10 pairs...) The preliminary tests we have made manually shows that with over 250 ft/lbs, we could turn the bushing itself but the jam nut does not move. This means it will not unscrew and should stay put even with vibration. it`s called the Nord-lock lock washer. Have a look here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I . This is exactly why I take my time to bring another product on the market. They will go on the truck in the coming weeks and will be able to testify of the new setup. The price is still not final, but I can already say le lower links will cost over 300 CAD.. With all my efforts to have a sub 300$, it`s just impossible because of all the workmanship involved in them. I am though thinking of making a better priced one that would have the lower link made of a 1.5 inch bar instead of a 2''. My first tests of impacts on the 2'' part shows that it can sustain a 30000 lbs (15 tons) hit in the middle and not break. So I know this is extreme and the tests with 1.5'' will tell me if it would be a good avenue. The latter would cost less in material and would not imply machining on the extremities ; only the threaded holes.. It`s something I will look at very seriously. in the mean time here`s some more pictures:

they don`t for the 01-04 r50.... :-( only 96-00

I can't find any on summit racing web site and neither on ebay... I say whatever you got do not exists anymore...

I'm always amazed on just how good a 95 looks when it has been living in the south!...Here it would be a totally different story... great buy !

I had a few hits, but no all aluminum... see here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32041&view=findpost&p=604006

don't forget to buy new bearings and inner seals while you,re rebuilding all this.... and for the friction disks, make sure you have the lsd model or else you outa luck...

yes of course if you change ratio, change the front too ! I just compared part numbers between pathfinders of 96-97 (hg46), pathfinder 2001+ (hg43) and even xterra and frontier 2001+ (hg49) !Yess 4.90:1 ratio... It's all the same core diff part number : 38421 so it's confirmed... the internal is the same..just the ring and pinion ratio changes... happy hunting !

I think you are right. I would be very surprised if the core between the hg43 and hg46 are different. It's really just the ring and pinion that's important (between these two)... but I cannot confirm 100%... some part numbers comparisaon at courtesy would need to be done between a core of a hg46 and one of hg43... I would expect them to be the same part number...

It really depends on what parts are shot... Even if you went with an arb, it does not come with the ring gear... Check if the chunks of metals came from the ring gear and/or the spider gears (inside the core)... You might just have a bad ring and pinion and could be ok just changing these.. This you could easily find in a junkyard without having to go check in person..just use www.car-part.com . Not sure if you have a lsd or open diff. but for limited wheeling there is no point of buying a 1000$ arb plus the time and side parts (bearings, seals) that goes with it... I would look fo an lsd and there is even a great how-to from laxman somewhere when he added friction disks to his.. Start with the 1st step and verify what exactly is shot...

I use the rearward cross: good article here : http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=43

yes I do... not only do your tires wear 20% slower, but you end up having a spare that is always the same size than the others... It`s more work but it well worth it... think also when you sell them...

you torque until the bearing is at it's place (a good 70 ft/lbs), then it 0 ft/lbs... basically just hand tight without putting force to it.. basically just to prevent the bearing from moving sideways... simple really..

4 prong dana 44, cut 2 prongs and slim the others... that's what I did....

it wierd you say that because it happened to me too but at an official moog reseller just next to my house. On the 4 inner and outer tie-rod boxs, only 1 was a real moog !... good thing I had the picture and the part number with me when we checked them out.... what a pain...

or the coolant temp sensor if you can smell a strong odor of fuel when you try to start it...

When you get a chance, please post the brand and parts kit your mechanic used.. My 2001 will eventually need a refresh of the clutch plates and if it can support your turbo, I guess it will support a good rock crawling session of mine :-) S.

they all multiply, so there is no 1st or last number.... it does not matter... the result is the same :-) edit **: Just re-read your reply and I realized I did not understood properly.. the first gear ratio will be found in your fsm.., and for the ratio, the higher the number the better your truck can crawl... and yes for an auto you multiply by 2

by the way the fabrication should be done tomorrow night... so expect a shipping soon after that... S.

May I add that if you have an automatic, you pretty much multiply your result by 2 to take into account the torque converter...

The 2.6:1 you got comes from the atx14x Transfer case that you see on some 2001-2004. This is the newer transfer case that uses planetary gears and is electrically activated from a dial in the dash. S.

I also make one... cost more but built for offroad.. http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.html near the bottom of the page.. I call it a crosslink. S.

Hey rod, I guess we're gonna need to wheel together soon.. I'll invite you when we do a nice trail...

Before you sas though, I would be curious to see if you would break that much in front if you were locked.... because on my side I do have some good climbs and never broke anything yet... it's worth a try.. no? either the costy way (arb), or cheap way (welded spider gears with manual hubs) ??