MY1PATH

anybody notice a wd21 vs r50 trend brewing? I thought it started out as humor but ppl might be taking it personally...

all this wd22 talk, pezzy iz gonna and ban uss....

yes you can change them at anytime but you should use zddp and a break in procedure each time you change them. These aren't BS additives I'm talking about either. They replace a compnent in oil that MFGRs nolonger use on the newer engines. ZDDP is literally (and In laymens terms)micro particles of zinc that wear down intsead of your engine internals. Search for my cam thread, I have a video and explaination there on how lifters work and how they can be modified. The way they usally fail is by falling out of tolerance to the point where they leak or don't hold enough oil preassure (zddp prevents this so they fail faster now than they did before 2003). the other common thing is heat cauising brittle ness so they chip or wear at the small end. you'd be surprised, if you take good care of things I bet you'll get another 200k out of engine and vehicle. I plan to have both mine for another 20 years.

Of course you can, smack it with a center punch and just drill the head off. or take it off with a dremel cutting wheel down the center and pull bot sides out. Its just mild steel, not un-obtainium or anything lol

search "manual transmission" 2nd page of results TSB check out that whole thread.

thats exactly it, they don't always open valves when cold and no oil preassure running. Its a good idea to change all the lifters @ ~250k miles or sooner if a rebuild is involved. Check out northern auto parts, or abc nissan. I got mine from northern, they were clevite brand and it totaled about ~130 for all 12. royal purple and brad penn racing oil contain zddp its a good idea to have at least 2 qts of a zddp containing oil in every oil change because most oil mfgrs do not put it in their oil anymore. Its a wear reducing agent, check out http://schneidercams.com/engineadditives.aspx. use the cam lube on all the shiny surfaces of your lifters and rocker pads during assembly and formula 2 for your break in (lots of zddp) DO NOT USE FORMULA 3 untill your rings have seated.

Did you change your lifters? You should have if your doing a rebuild. and make sure you follow a high rpm break in process using lots of zddp for at least 20 min. That being said, when there is no oil preassure it is not uncommon for a lifter to collapse a little when you tighten down the rocker shaft. When this happens the lifter takes the slack instead of opening the valve. Just make sure your rockers are nice and centered when tightneing the shaft(evently) and that one end is resting on a lifter and the other end is resting on the valve. If either end is floating more than .006" than you may have found a problem.

IMO the x is/was the new pathfinder. I mean think about it, they share the same front supension design, steering design and they both share a FRAME with their truck counterpart. the R50 has no frame, no truck counterpart and a mcpherson strut with R&P steering instead of sticking with its roots. and then, Pathfinders only got bigger!!! yes the X is bigger too but not by mutch and its still compact, upgradeable and rugged just like the wd21.

My94 does the same thing, I read the manual and this is how its supposed to be. I think all the 4doors are that way because they have a lock button on the door switch panel if you wanna get all the doors from inside. However, if you turn the key to unlock the driver door and then turn it again before pulling it out all the doors unlock. My 89 unlocks when I pull the driver door knob but it does not have a button.

x2 the VG series has proven itself very well.

some places will sell you the alty and PS belt as both the same size but others will give you 2 sizes aprox 1/2" apart....

I found one in the yj like that not too long ago. I was looking for a tensioner for another project and I found one with broken stud. It looked brand new and so did the belt and water pump.

OR your clutch safety switch is stuck or by passed.

I did the twist method too. If you can twist past 90* its too loose. I gave it my hardest twist after setting and got maybe 85* You could hear it hum over the pulleys when it ran but as the belt broke in it got quieter.

yes, some rigs just start at the slightest turn. My 94 turns over on its own so quick you wonder if the starter even did anything or if it just fired and ran on its own. My 89 I had the key in run when I was turning the crank by hand and the damn thing fired. Gave me scare & it chucked the breaker at the floor. It didn't run but it had just the right conditons to fire one cyl when I got to that point in rotation. (I think MSD had a disclaimer about that)

thats allot better than $500. did he check the timing gear keyway too? I use aluminum sheets as backing to hold fillers in place to weled steel and vise versa.

well since you got the jerk outa the way I'll provide the capitan obvious; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27832&st=0&p=522155&hl=backspacing&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=522155 this was on the first page of results when you type backspacing in the search bar. your post started with "hello stupid question time!! " followed by a question we get allot of smart-asses here. but ok really your question is slightly differant. most lazy repettive noobs ask "what size fits" but you asked what size are you running. I am running 15x8" with 4" BS on my 89 and 15x8 with 3.75 BS on my 94 and 14x5? with ??"BSon my dodge stratus. My Yamaha has 18"rear and 21"front both with center offset.

Its always off, its a momentary-on switch that bypasses the clutch safety switch so you can start on a hill or side of a ditch without having to push the clutch in.

I had that too, when I got it It would not heat up at all (cold heater) and the needle would not move. Now the heater gets hot and then needle is still lower than it should be. And the gass guage reading low all the time is indicator that something is up. Maybe a VR...

what happens is that some areas (usually near the bolts) compress more. Compression one way often leads to material wanting to go another way(expansion). since the rest of the gasket is till under preassure from the rest of the head that expansion has nowhere to go, creating stress points. lostening relives this stress and re-torqeing the now pre-compressed gasket gets you your final, flush and stress relived seal. I know it sounds silly and usually these types of stress forces don't happen on a visual level so people have hard time beliving but it does happen.

sometimes the switch in the sending unit fails and the light never comes on. If I get below the line & the E i'll go another 20 miles if I have to. My new 94 on the other hand does that and I only pump 17 gallons, the temp guage reads low too so I suspect a cluster issue in my case.

YES, there are all kinds of tool numpbers in the FSM but many of them cannot be had anymore or are extemely hard to get For example; KV10110600(J339B6) the vavle spring compressor that bolts where the rocker shaft goes so you don't have to pull the head to change vavle springs. Yeh good luck finding that one. Better off making one of your own.

I hear ya, just tryn' to save u buck but things don't always work as planned. best wishes to ya.

never done it but I would say start by running fresh water thru your system so if you spill your not spilling coolant on your carpet. Then get the job done quick because you don't want your engine sitting for too many days without any rust inhibitors(found in coolant) to protect it.