MY1PATH

the 3.3 SC shuts off too. Its got an internal bypass circut so that no boost is generated. this bypass can be on a solenoid switch or a vacuum motor or both.

why not put a 3.3 out of a later model in there? Or get lucky and find a superchaged 3.3?

You can also rebuild Lifters and add volume shims(what I did, makes lifter handle loads better) or lift shims (makes lifter slolid and Requires inspection for properl valve lash)

Ya, I asked for PIX and we never got any. Show us under the hood.

have a rag handy as you will get some drip. The speedo gear Is above the fill level but the t-case pumps oil up to the speedo gear when you are driving and the internal molding keeps about ~1oz of it there when you are stopped.

I do it every timing belt. Belts gotta come off anyway to remove the 4x4 water pumps.

Just pull a 17 and 18 from a JY and see what does you better. My 31's are actually 30.5 the 17 a little high and the 18 was a little low. Some 31's are 31.5"... Don't forget the gear that drives the speedo gear is a worm gear(Like large screw threads) so you don't have the exact number of teeth per rotation because it will vary by the diameter of the speedo gear not just the number of teeth.

JWT S1 is good stuff. It will stop your VG powered SUV from acting like a sheep on the road. Good install guide found here; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422 The cams edicer linked will do you about the same. JWT is ground from billet, Most others are Re-ground from stock cores...

If you have 4.3 gears and 31's you need 17 If you have 4.6 gears and 31's you need 18 If you have 4.3 gears and 30's you need 18 If you have 4.6 gears and 30's you need 19 If you have 4.3 gears and 235's you need 19 If you have 4.6 gears and 235's you need 20 That should get you pretty damn close...

Wait, so the 28 spine CV's will allow more drop without binding? I may have to convert my 89. I get terrible binding @ full drop. and hey I got a 94 that won't ever see that much drop.

Ya good luck pinching off 3/0 cable. damage it yes but it would take a few hits before it was severed.

Last "Big" strom (our only snow strom) my sliders had 4" and my roof and hood had maybe 2.5" They stay colder so it sticks sooner I guess? It brushed right off tho. I have a pic if yall want me 2 upload it...

Now that would be cool. Something with a wider range of operating angles too!!!

So HFX, you had or still have the 300zx lsd up front? So you did 3 wheel drive in the winter lol. That's one way of solving the understeer probelm. I imagine 60 ftlbs + some extra additve would breakaway on snowy roads but not on ice or hardpack.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422 Much easier than that BUT, The images and info are good for your help in removing the intake manifold. After the manifold is off remove the fuel lines, wires and then the rails. The rest is easy...

The front LSD's have a much lower breakaway torque. The rear is like 280ftlbs to slip. The nismo front LSD for fronteirs is like 60ftlbs and other aftermarkets will close to that. The 300ZX r200 LSD's when installed up front on a pathy provide 80~100ftlbs depending on maintence and wear. The Z LSD may cause understeer on slipery conditions but the others should not.

No it will not hurt your lsd. Your LSD uses Friction to do its job. Too much friction and the parts wear out, too little friction and it acts like an open diff. The addive reduces friction.

I advise against using Iridum and platnum plugs on the VG. These old engines do just fine on plane ol copper core plugs because they have a very strong igniton system. BKR6EY (plain V-power) will work on both vg30e and vg30i. You can gap it to .040~.042

OHHH! He's talking about the flange for the actual CV on the Diff side. I'm pretty sure the flages can be changed over too... the Newer 28 spline flanges on the Diff are 5 bolt star pattern the Older 27 spline flanges on the Diff are 6 bolt in 3 sets of 2 arround the circle

so the 28 spline used 5 bolts? I never noticed that... I'd look on my 94 but the centercaps are in the way. very odd, I wonder why the did it...

Those are OEM's and still in stock @ nissan for $400 a pair. They are the strongest hubs for a nissan that money cay buy. Some of us get lucky and find a pair in the JY for $25 or so... If the splines don't match up you can change your CV's for a differant year or sell them to somone greatful on here.

he said he put LSD oil in there. If he uses additive they will slip too much. Additive is ONLY for non-lsd oils.

and thats why we don't give kids hole saws.

airing down don't help much with snow. Get some mud tires and run them at preassure.

you also have an inferior soccer mom LSD. Rebuild yours to match the wd21 arrangement or better. Neat trick; when you pick up a tire and it spins pull the e-brake a little or ride the foot brake. This equalizes the load and sends torque to the down tire. once you get momentum release the brakes.