MY1PATH

Ok, explain why when I blow off hot parts at work the air bouced back at me his warm? 100 psi coming straight out of a nozzle is moving faster than any intake I know. And I'm talkin only 120-180 degrees... Intake manifolds get hotter than that. Nobody said the gains were huge exept for headpeace.

its all preference, With the manuals I leave em unlocked most the time to save gas. If there is snow out or I am at a trail head I lock them and leave em that way untill the snow is gone or the trail run is over. Once locked going 4x4 is a lever only action. some people would rather not "get out and lock/ unlock each time" (not done if you just leave em locked) and others just don't want to bend over and unlock them when they are concered about saving MPG.

I think they both are. IIRC OME makes a lift spring and an HD spring. The HD spring provides a small ammount of lift because they plan on you loading it up. Just get the 1.5"

about 1/3 of the fluid stays in the TC If you change your fluid twice about 100 miles apart (I used trans tune each time) you should be able to displace or dilute all of whats in the TC.

your pathy tranny will bolt right up to the DE

at frist when I read that I thought you meant $80 to put a sentra 5spd in your auto pathy. Even if they were compatible it would cost over $80 just to drop a pathy tranny.

fuel pumps are the same, did you check the filter?

get some OME (old man emu) springs from 4x4 parts. In general most spings achive lift by being a little stiffer and sometimes a little taller. More commonly they are a combineation of both. The OME springs provide good ride quality and aid in load handling as well.

Why both? well, allot of vehicles don't have both. Take the R50 for example, its hubs are pemenantly locked and the selection is only done at the lever. So everywhere they go; the front wheels turn the cv wich turns the differential which turns the driveshaft wich turns the un-coupled gear inside the the t-case. If you add it up thats about ~50lbs or more of rotating weight that isn't being used for any purpose. That takes energy wich reduces MPGs and shortens the life of bearings and universals (that normally outlive the vehcile anyway). So when an R50 owner goes to manual hubs and shed all that rotating mass when they are on the steet they gain 1~2 MPGS from it. HOW do auto hubs engage? They actually don't engage when you pull the lever but that is the first step. Once the lever is pulled the driveline is engaged(FWD gear>driveshaft>diff>CV joint) once the CV joint turns inside the hub it rotates a clutch that slides into a locked position. This can happen in foward and reverse but only if the CV is beeing driven, in other words the wheel spinning arround a motionless CV will not engage the hub. How do they disengage? since the cv is nolonger being driven all it takes is rotating the wheel in the opposite direction it was going and the spring loaded cluch slides back into a free position. If your feeling adventureous you can take the hub apart to clean it and grease it. Seeing the internals may give you a better Idea of how this works.

I get enough freakin rain up here! It rains 10 months a year! I want snow again!

yes, but I'm assuming he lifted the vehicle to do the job in witch case the arms posture is more likely to change when the rod is out. ...and some people just get unlucky I guess.

The spacers are phenolic, this is a hard composite material that has very little thermal trasmission. If you make the part out of metal all you are doing is extending your runners and that is missing the point. The point is to themally isolate the upper manifold.

Ok, where'd our winter go? Where'd our snow go? DID YOU steal it? to see what it was like? Give it back or you will be banned!!!

Loosen up the big nut on the front of your conrol arm and unbolt your lower BJ you can hang the knuckle by sticking a plank our something about 1~1.5" between the upper bumpstop and UCA doing this should give you a little more axial play in the LCA. also, If you haven't already the T-bar should be loose to make things eaiser.

Ok I tried all kinds of blades that cost less than $15 and still no new windshield... 3 days ago I saw a rain-x lattitude for like 16 bucks and decieded what the hell, I'll try it. (I got the 18") WOW! streak free wipe even with all the pitting in the glass. I only bought One cause I was ready to be disappointed but I'll be goin back for another now. Now I can get the bugs off the glass without making things worse.

actually if your not a wimp you can repositon it with you hands.

than that wire is finding ground and making your light come on. When proplery hooked up that light should only come on if you have less than ~5 psi of oil (10 is your minimum) your owners manual will tell you to stop IMEDIATELY because engine damge with no oil pressure is iminent.

Its not on there very tight so usually you can wiggle the cover a little bit untill you find a position that is silent.

SeaFoam product called transtune does wonders. I used a full can on the wifes pathy and let it go 200 miles. Cleaned that puppy right up! But I still like the stick in mine better.

the Idea is to Isolate the upper manifold from the heat of the throttle body and the of the lower manifold. (both have coolant running thru them). I can't remember where I was but there was a dyno chart posted showing about 5 ponies and 10ftlbs over stock. Of course, This effect would be magnifed if you had larger displacement or forced induction.

Billet means it was cut or machined from a solid block and It usually retains its original grain structure that it had from the forge. Most parts are cast into a general shape and then machined down from there.(saves money, on production time and les wasted metal) Casing (in general) usually contains no specific grain structre unless it has been tempered and even then it is still usually softer and has a chance for air pockets, impurities and other imperfections.

Can you get one of the sending units from the older rigs (looks like a little can) and run you gauge off that?

I usually make it a policy not to work on peoples cars for them. I'll work with them and teach if necessary but they gotta be there to get their Hands dirty and smash as many fingers as it do lol.

whats your setup like? If you got a garage I might help...

MAN! all these non-searching noobs! This was just asked.... OK, link will put you all to shame!!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22278&st=0&p=394480&&do=findComment&comment=394480 The one who made this writeup was very much a noob when he did his.