MY1PATH

Not having enought back pressure is a misconception. What really happens when you run duals or the pip is too large is that the exhaust gasses expand too fast causing them to cool down and slow down. This creates turbulance and disrupts the chain of flow for the exhaust pulses behind the expanded cooled gas. 2.0 or 2.25 pipe is pretty ideal and works even for modified VG engines. Intake Is good, headders are better and JWT S1 cams do lots! For more mild gains up top the Eurospec cams from the dealer are also a good option.

got enough lights to install?

I just looked these guys up... intense quadruple tube roll bar...

to be more specific, all rancho shocks contain oil. it is how their dampening works. The Gas charged shocks are charged with a gas(usually nitrogen) that does not mix with the oil thus keeping it cooler and more consistant during heavy use. The Non-gas charged shocks allow the oil to get foamy hot and thin under heavy use wich can create some unwanted ride characteristics. The RS5000's provide a solid ride but can be considered on the siff side for some. Its good for street and to reduce bottoming on the trail. I have these in the front and if you go fast over rough stuff(cobble stones, washboard) they get a little undesireable... so keep your speed down or get gas charged. The RS9000's are gas charged to provide more consistant ride conditions under heavy use like High speed trails and washboards. they are also fully ajustable so you can make them as soft of as stiff as you like. Good for all conditions. These are what I run in the and I'm really happy with them.

I have not done this with the electonic units yet but with the mechanical ones the shaft is offcenter the 20 tooth gears are pretty close to center but the 17t is offset noticeably. But you also change the whole module not just the gear on the end...

even on the trail a fully locked front end will provide steering reistance.

x2 the 3.3 water passages are differant to acomodate the lager bore. yes a 3.0 can be bored to 3.3 but your getting close to the walls. There are stroker cranksafts for the VG they are made bu JUN and the kit runs $12,000 the last time I checked. Peaco down in florida quoted me $2,500 for a Billet stroker crank and new pistons with the wrist pin raised to prevent head collision. A local machine shop qoted me $2,000 to do an offset grind but it would still be more to get pistons made or find shorter rods. peaco In florida sounds like your best bet if you want a stroker...

In the 89 I pull nothing. I have and e-fan and my 1/4 drive tools do the rest of the tight space work just fine. On my 94 I tried it that way and was not so easy working arround the fan...

my link http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/

As I understand it, 2001+ models are Heavy Duty (HD). I'm not sure what changes were made but I would assume it includes things like re-enforced gears, Stronger TC and stronger shift solenoids for Crisper shifting.

I think some guys on N4W are running the 5.12's A bunch of them are running the 4.9 and are very happy on 33's

I been driving arround with a 12x20" piece of cardboard over my radiator all winter on the 94

I'd say the kid got off lucky. A blazer hit me in the same place a few years back. His impact point was centered arround the 2 carrier hinges so I had less expensive body damage. The bazer on the other hand was completely totaled. It had to hauled out on a flat bed. If your looking for AFFORDABLE impact protection. look for Smittybilt front and rear bumpers from Toyota Pickup and 4 runner (late 80's to early 90's) and Chevy s10 blazer and pickup (82-93). They are the right size for our vehcles and will only need minor fabrication of mounting points.

FYI the 3.3 trannys have higher gear ratios than the 3.0's so your rpms at a given speed will be slightly lower. This isn't a big differance and should not deter you its just a litte fact.

I THINK it was M8x1.25. anyway get the early 300zx turbo studs they are stronger and less prone to breaking. Napa should have them If you look up by 84-87 nissan 300zx turbo.

The project pathfinder was a VG34 (3.3 with q45 pistons) and W-series 300zx heads. Good luck finding W-series heads. You best bet in keeping it simple is a vg33block and heads with JWT S1 cams. Get some headders and You should make about over 200 ponies at the crank and Better MPG than before.

you can also pull those gears off of a nissan xterra or frontier.

its not...

When you said garbage I assumed you meant the AUTO's. Like stated above the MT is great and never recived any upgrades (as far as I know) I fill mine thru the sifter, Less crawling that way. The original (before knowing about the TSB) lasted 190k with the fill level too low. Thats when 5th started to go and the fragments created interference with 3rd and 1st.

x2 on brake fluid resivor.

any 2001+ RE4R01A (found in VG powered R50's, Frontiers and Xterras) Will be your golden ticket. Nissan never changed the Part numbers but the 2001+ are HD models. Before you install the transmission you should Get a shift kit from SUPERIOR SHIFT. The kit is about $40 and provides some new seals and minor modification of the Valve body For crisp clean shifting and long life performance. Superior designs kits specifcally for used high mileage trannys to correct issues that were not adressed when the tranny was first designed.

HB's typically had colmn shifters. Typically rigs are configured as such; Colmn Shift -> indicator on colmn or in cluster Floor Shift -> indicator on floor next to shifter This is not always the case but that how it usually is on most vehicles,

The clutch damper Is like a pressure valve It holds a small ammount of pressure in the line after you've released the pedal to reduce chatter from the clutch fork sitting loose. There were some threads on N4W about it and several guys just bypassed theirs with no ill effects IIRC.

6 of one and half dozen of the other. Efficency is all relative to the setup either one can go both ways.