MY1PATH

not quite a bridge but go to a snowmobile shop and see if you can get an old worn out track. You sould be able to cut 3 or 4 decent sections out of it for postionable traction aid.

I would think if it had enought pressure to get to the tubo it would have engough pressure to come out where ever you put it. Otherwise I'd worry your turbo isn't getting enough oil.

I Don't like yellow and the blue top is basically the same battery. Just make sure you get a good price if you go blue. Some places like to chage $15+ more for the blue but they are worth the same.

could you just reurn it thru the valve cover? Pulling a vlave cover to add a proper bung (even the driver side one) is still easier than pulling the oil pan and theres less chance of causing a leak. Also, (maybe its the angle) but it looks like your turbo is gonna smack your brake cyl every time you rev the engine...

nope thats just the late 80's cluster before they switiched over to the Not-as-cool cluster. My 89 came with the "sport package" wich included flares, mudflaps, 31" tires, full size spare, american racing alloy wheels, lsd and few other goodies... But really there was no rhyme or reason to the configureations. the luxury models be downgraded if the customer was poor and the base models could be upgraded if the customer wanted more options.

Half shaft spacers? does the CV extend that much with the SFD?

I have a brochure with one in it I'll have to find it and scan it. It basically 100ftlbs @ 2k and 130 @ 2.8 and 4.5 with a gradual 20 point rise in between. It starts falling off by 5k.

Flex A Lite Black Magic XTREME 180http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22907&view=findpost&p=408812

FYI a pathy can run 5,500RPM all day long so 3 aint so bad. Plus thats right where it makes the most torque (stock) so it gets its best mpg there.

the 300zx had a bolt on plate where the oil filter goes to supply oilt to the trubo. The oil filter screwed onto the plate. If you got a smaller filter(to clear the frame rail) or a remote filter kit you could use the OE 300zx part for your oil supply. have fun

rust already?

OK I went at it again... So 4 years ago I pulled a big chevy silverado up a hill in seattle. The guy stuck the chain hook in my frame tiedown point instead of the shackle and bent it up good (always hook up your own vehicle). 2.5 years ago I was rear ended by a chevy blazer and the body shop who did a little work for me straightnened it a little but it wasn't perfect. Well now this point is going to be used as one of my new bumper mounting points so it needs to be flat and straight. So I took some 3/4" steel scrap and two 1/4" steel flat bars and squashed it all toghether with a bolt. I pushed. I pried. If flipped deformed pieces of metal over and bolted them on and pulled again.... and finally after a few hours I got it flat and straight and ready to be used as a mounting point. I may still grind it down a hair for perfect flatness and rust removal.

Actually notched the Fule tank skid to clear my bumper mounts when I make them.

made templates of my would be "k-brace" so I can see how far to notch my fuel tank skid to clear the real thing when I make them for my bumper.

It helps you keep your alignment when you crank your T-bar. 1" spacer means no camber change with 1" T-bar crank. IMO 1" spacers should only be used on street vehciles as they put some pretty harsh forces on stock and aftermarket UCA's Calmini UCA's are pretty beefy so you might get away with it on theirs. I've seen a few threads Here, on n4w and on 4x4parts about the 1" spacers twisting arms. I don't recall any 1/2" spacers doing damage I personally have 3/8" spacers that I had cut on a water jet and have had No issues

Worked more on the postrunner. I finished the mount grinding so there is room for paint when I install it. Then I removed all the sharp edges that KMA left for me to cut my fingers on... Lastly I measured and assessed my required materials and decided to make all my additional parts out of 2x1x3/16 U channel because I can get 20 ft of that (minimum order at local place) for 60 bucks and getting shorter cuts of varying sizes would wind up costing a few hundred and still leave me with just as much extra material when I'm done.

hey Nissannut.com has atly swap writeups so you can see those pics too... http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/

x2 on burping

First, did you check your coolant level and radiator cap? if your coolant is low the bubles go to the core and keep it cold. If your cap leaks you will get bubbles in your core and get cold. Ok, If that don't work get a reducer fitting from your hardware store and screw it on your garden hose. clamp the core inlet hose to the fitting and unhook the outlet. turn on hose full blast and watch what comes out. Have fun.

Could you drain the coolant a little and pull the lower manifold? then you could get the screw with a needle nose.

I worked on my Postrunner today. Full details can be found on my My Postrunner thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24379&view=findpost&p=561745

I got that us cargo contol bookmarked. I like them

I think I read somewhere that the US divison of sylvaina bases their bulbs off of a 12.5v load or something like that. The eropean divison (OSRAM Sylvania) makes there bulbs based off of 14v load or something like that. The end result is in the US the blubls fail allot becasue vechle charging systems put out 13.5-15V depending on the Make.

Yes, the starter T-bars come off because the Transfer case hangs over the T-bar x-member. If you have enough clearance (aka vehicle on a lift) You can get away with unbolting the T-bar X-member and prying it down about 9". This will give you room to tip the bell out a a slight angle and slide it foward once it clears the oil pan. Thats how AAMslow did it when they changed my auto tanny in the 94.

you could grind out the inside of the hinge to clear the zerk...