MY1PATH

VERY BAD http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18579&st=0&p=560262&hl=carrier&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=560262

So last month we had a power meter installed and after a trial period we are going to be receiving electric bills... Well, we'll get billed if were go above a pre-set average... Last month I used over 3,000 KWH and the average for this region is 900 a month and I have no idea what our housing average is going to be set to. I believe most of that power consumption came from my beat up 900w/1300w heater in my "garage" Its actually a large closet at the end of my car port where I do all my projects. I looked at other heaters and found a 300w heater that is well suited to small spaces http://www.sears.com...ku=03298711000P But I am concerned about running a grinder or welder next to that and I really do not have allot of space... And a working thermostat would be nice so it only runs when its needed. Moving on my second problem is light. In the ceiling pointing straight into the back of my welding helmet is the only light in there. This makes allot of glare when I am trying to see what I am welding. Re-mounting the light is not allowed but truing it off and using a bright positionable light might work. I don't have allot of money to spend and I don't want to pay more when it comes to billing. so I figured I could combine solutions? I doesn't necessarily need to stay warm in there as long as I can be warm when working so I figured instant heat from light Might work... how warm would I feel with a 700 watt Halogen light shining on me and my parts? or maybe a Cheaper 500w? If this works I would save energy costs greatly because It would only be on when I'm in there. If its plenty warm I could even put lower watt bulbs in it for more saving... Anybody have experience with how much warmth from light these lamps give off? Other ideas?

I said almost because solving one problem only uncovered another one.......in my last 1/2" of shock travel my drive shaft its the cross member. Enough to wear into it if I were in a situation full drop for extended distance. (aka going down washouts) Eventually I'll notch the cross member and weld a plate into the notch to keep the strength. But I think I'm reaching my limits in the rear unless I start making some awesome modifications.... EDIT; 510 just gave me the simple idea of putting a spacer under the tranny. This should give me some easy clearance

Ok It all works and heres the short descriptions and pix. Cut off the hard line mounts or Drill out the Spot welds. They cannot stay on the Brake baffles because they will run under the axle that way and be in serious danger of impact. Remove the axles and remove hard line brackets from lines. I swapped the left and right brackets so they would face the same as before when welded to the Bump Stop Strikers. Re-install axles swapping left for right. And check that the new hard line location is not in the way of anything. Swap Body side parking brake mounts(as mentioned above) by prying them open and then clamping them shut on the opposite cables. Parking brake cables DO NOT need to come out of the brake baffle. Here Is My before and after from the side. See how tight and straight the cable is in the first pic and now see how the slack in the cable is allowed to Curve away from the wheel in the second pic. Here Is my before and after of the cable. The first pic shows the cable with the axle was actually hanging by it. I used to tear those loops allot. In the second pic the axle is almost fully dropped and unrestricted by the cable. No more torn loops. So now I can disconnect my sway bar on the trail and not worry about pulling on the parking cables. And I can almost reach full drop unrestricted.

Well the Flip Moves your axle side of the cable up about 6" wich is good For BL and SL combined. Now it looks like I can remove my custom drop down brackets Cause I got More than enough slack. The flip also keeps them out of the way of trail debris. I have not looked at drum brakes yet But I think Doing the Flip with drums would put the hardlines on the bottom.

2 Things People always miss. 1)The first 20 min your startup is critical. The Cams / Lifters must be "Run In" This maintains a good Oil supply while the lifters establish a good wear pattern Start the engine and raise RPMs Immediadely to 2,000 RPM to ensure adequate oil supply to cams and valve train. Listen for any strange noises. You may hear a tappet noise for a few seconds but this should disappear once the oil pressure is up. If you feel something is not right switch off engine, investigate and fix it. Once fixed restart engine and raise revs to 2000 RPM immediately again. After 5 mins raise engine RPM to 3000 rpm. After 10 mins slowly fluctuate RPM between 2000 and 3000 RPM After 20 mins allow engine to idle and then switch off. Cams/ Lifters are now run in. 2) A wear additive containing ZDDP should be used during Run In and for the first few hundred miles after. ZDDP used to be in all oils but starting in 2003 Oil Companies began removing it. Also running a ZDDP oil is good for you engine too. Royal Purple and Brad Penn are 2 brands that still contain ZDDP.

Ok 1/2 QT low on oil but all the discs were soaked prior to install (forgot to mention that in the writeup). Like last time, I can hear the tires when I turn but not as much. I'll get to test it on that turn on the way to work tomorrow and see... I'm sure it will be wet. May-haps some LSD additive will reduce it to my desired level. I'll try it out at Elbe before I even consider taking it apart again.

LSD Take 2 is up Will finish axle flip and post pics after i get up Sunday....

Getting Started Disconnecting the brake hard lines, parking brake, draining the oil and sliding out the axle is easy enough. Next you unbolt the drive shaft and remove it or tie it up. (I just stuffed it above the muffler) Now comes the fun part, remove all the nuts (or bolts, depending on the year) on the 3rd member. All the weight is in the axle so it won't fall back on you just yet. Now pull it out, Its about 75~80LBs of awkwardly balanced odd shaped metal... ...and thats what makes it so fun. Prep Work Clean the bearing caps and adjusting rings throughly. Mark along the slide adjuster (metal clip screwed to the cap) all the way down across the adjusting ring. These marks are very important, (so make sure they don't come off) they will allow you to re-assemble the diff with no adjustment required. (factory backlash stays in tact) Now remove the bearing caps, keep left and right in separate locations. You can slide the axles into the diff to help with leverage and to keep it from rolling around. The adjusting rings will pull out with a little tug note the number of threads they are in before pulling. Keep left and right in separate locations. Pull the Differential out of the carrier, the ring gear makes a good gripping point. Remove bearing cups and again place left and right separate. Dissemble Ok I forgot to take pictures here There are 8 bolts holding the differential halves together (the smaller bolts) Bend down the locking tabs and remove the bolts working equally in a circle. Do not remove any bolt all the way until all bolts are equally loose. You can use a larger wrench on the Ring gear bolts to pull against when loosening the smaller bolts. This helps allot. Once all the bolts are out you can lift the ring gear half away from the remaining half. Modify Make your desired changes. Both sides need to be identical. Dip each disc and plate in LSD gear oil before stacking "Take 1" Is actually good for allot of enthusiasts especially if you have larger tires (32x11.50, 33"+...) Getting parts can be cheap as a dedicated person could probably disassemble and remove some LSD parts @ a JY in about 2-3 hours. (no re-assembly and no brake bleeding required so its better than working on your own ) "Take 2" Is (still un-tested(will update))... Re-Assemble If you are keeping your Friction Plate Guides but a glob of thick grease in each one to keep them from falling off during Re-assembly Make sure that your outer most friction disc or spring disc stays engaged with the gear or it will pinch and get chewed up when you drive. Make sure your 4 spider gears still have their cup washers on them when you set them into the differential. If your stack is too thick to bolt down you can use a 5mm longer bolt. NO LONGER. Clean and dry threads on bolts and differential. Lower ring gear half onto the rest of the differential and set lock tabs (if you can find new / usable ones) over holes. Apply permanent lock-tite to bolt threats and install tightening them all equally to 45ft lbs. (you can use the wrench and ring bolt trick again) Fold over lock tabs if you used them. Re-install Clean and dry bolts and threads for bearing caps. Put correct bearing cups on each bearing and set differential in the 3rd member. Put correct adjusting ring on each side at about 90 degrees counter clockwise from your marks. Put correct bearing cap on each side and install each bolt with lock-tite. If you are using the right tool tighten bolts to 75ft lbs now right tool link http://ruggedrocksof...ol-p-35919.html If you are using a wrong tool tighten bolts to 10ft lbs and re-torque to 75ft lbs after using wrong tool. Rotate the adjusting ring on each side until it lines up with your mark. Most people use punches or socket extensions to do this (wrong tool). If you are using the wrong tool DO NOT swing hard. You want rapid gentle hammer stokes. It will get there and less damage will happen.(as in none). Now Re-torque to 75ftlbs if you need to and install slide clips in back their potions. Clean and lock-tite these little bolts and torque to 24ft lbs. Finishing up The 3rd member comes out easy enough with the sway bar in place but it may fight your grip trying to re- install. I just unbolted the axle side and tucked it into the spring. clean up the axle housing and the the 3rd member. Mine had a durable gasket material on the 3rd member side on it so I gently cleaned it without damaging it and added a little bit of sealant to help the seal. Slide it in place (oh fun) and install nuts or bolts. Follow sealant instructions for tightening and final torque to 24 ft lbs. Re-install axles, fill oil, install brakes and bleed brakes, dive shaft, parking brake cables etc...

Take 1 When I did my disc swap I pulled the 3rd member and put an extra friction disc on each side. I had to remove the spring disc and replace it with a spring plate because I could not get it to stay in place with so little room left on the side gear. It gripped allot better but I could hear my tires on turns. It also proved to be dangerous on wet days when making particular turn near work with a steel transition plate coming down off of a bridge. PITA to pull them back out, quite time consuming. I was gonna try again but lacked the motivation to remove brakes and axles etc to do the job... Take 2 Today Er, yesterday, I pulled my axles for other mods so I decided to go for it again since I was 1/2 way there anyway. I earlier this week I machined about ~0.012" off of two friction discs, thats about as deep as the friction grooves (I think They were originally ~0.05") It may not seem like much but its about 20% less spring preload than I had previously added. We shall see in the next few days if thats reduced enough.... Stock LSD The Stock LSD arrangement on wd21 and d21 Patfinders and Pickups consists of 6 friction plates & 5 friction discs alternating and a spring disc and spring plate to keep a preload on them. Later model H233B axles had a lack of alternating pattern or even a thick spacer to replace some of the friction parts. Those versions offered much less traction.

Just paused for lunch and while its on my mind; Parking brake cables NEED to stay with their brakes. The casting on the end of the cable is oval and fits into the baffle in such a way that the opposite cable Will not go on. And since the mounts for the body are different on each side (first pic) I had to remove them and swap them over so the cables can say with their baffles. The LSD Mod is done and will be written up tonight or tomorrow and the same for the rest of this write up depending on when I finish...

not on my 89. each mount is different. See how one bolts to the bottom (I spaced it with square stock) And the other bolts to the side (I spaced it by making an extension) There are no nut-serts placed on the in the body mount for the opposite holes.

Thanks B. My carport is too small to cover me when pulling axles but I made a plan of action to keep dry; If I park right and lower the rig after pulling tires I can slide one axle into the kitcen and the other under the half-wall of my car port.

What this means is swapping left and right axles so the e-brake cables run out the top instead of the bottom. This keeps them safer from trail snags and also reduces pulling at drop for extended drop SL's like mine and for those with BL's (Mine pull pretty good at full drop and I already made and installed extensions.)I considered doing this when I did my disc swap but for whatever reason did not...I got the idea from Nissan Nut but he also moved his calipers to the top (I won't be) http://nissannut.com...233_disc_clock/ Plan of action; In my case the Calipers will stay on their respective sides and bolt onto the baffles that are swapped with the axles. The hard line mount on the baffle will need to be cut off and welded to the axle to keep its current position (otherwise it would be sitting under the axle after the flip) IIRC the L & R e-brake mounts on the body are different so I'll figure that out when I get there. Prolly just keep the cables on their respective sides too. While the axles are out I'll pull my 3rd member and re-modify my LSD; Look for LSD mod TAKE 2. sorry I never posted a take 1 but I will cover why take one didn't work out when I post take 2. So weather permitting, I should have pictures and what not up for yall to see how it all went down. And yes I know its supposed to rain all weekend but I been puttin this off a looong time so we'll see how bad the rain is...

I think 5223pathfinder, or abc nissan wholesale may be able to to get you some euro-spec cams for a fraction of the price. Last I heard They are trying to clear their inventory. The gains are not as great as the S1 but it will be more well mannered at low RPM and still give you some highway power.

TREs, BJ's and bushings are a good idea. Original bearings are usually good so long as they didn't get too beat up (driven loose for too long). HooHaa is a really good Idea. 3.3 with a S1 cam will run off the stock ecu with no issues. the lift won't replace those worn parts nor will it keep them from wearing. So its a good Idea too keep it running safe before and after the lift.

experiences do vary, I have my steering stops turned all the way back and my 31's on 15x8 3.75BS have left a few visible marks on the frame.

3.0-4.25 backspacing is your extreme range for the pathfinder IFS. 3" sticking out the most, Hitting your fenders the most and putting moderate stress on your IFS. 4.25" sticking out the least and has a likely hood to rub on your frame 3.5-3.75 Is your happy zone. 3.5 is center and good on 15x7 wheels 3.75 is about center and good on 15x8 wheels 15x10 is NOT recomneded on IFS

didn't you ask me about this ages ago? I know you did. there's a switch in the tranny 19mm wrench. The switch can fail or the piece inside the tranny can get worn down. In my case the piece inside the tranny was worn down. My old switch (that worked) had a plastic tip. My new switch (that I bought anyway) had a metal tip. I ended up putting a small weld on the tip of the new switch and BAM! works every time, no blinky.

yeah I lifted from the frame and pulled the tire. Pointed the muffler down and foward and twisted the bend down where the tire was. I think it just snaked out after that.

Rear disc can swap axles left to right to gain more parking brake reach. MY NON body lifted pathy needs that with my SL.

I fill thru the shifter hole.

get 2 buckets ( prefer soda bottles) stick a hose in each one secure hose so it stays in bucket (tape neck of bottle). start the engine for about 3 seconds and turn it off. the bottle with less fluid in it is your return line.

Today I made tie-down brackets that will the upper and lower bumper tubes of my postrunner bumper to the tiedown tabs hanging from the back of the frame. More info on these brackets can be found below the pictures. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24379&view=findpost&p=544084 Post #38 Item #2 (Can't do #1 Untill I re-weld the reciever)