MY1PATH

Unplug the switch and see which side has 12v going to it when the engine is ON. Then use the OTHER wire.

If you remove your front differential the engine will move forward and come out.

This is covered in the how to section under fluids but I'm feeling nice today. 75w90 GL4 Do not use GL5 as some brands of GL5 contain materials that are corrosive to our tranny internals.

3) I would not go up in rim size but if you want larger try going to 31" tires if you don't have them already. 2) Pathfinders are geared low, it helps them deal with being gutless and under powered. Running High RPM's is normal and will not hurt anything. I'v driven up and down California @ 4,500+RPM all day long doing ~80MPH Its just what it does. 4) Check all your ball joints, bushings, center link, Idler arm and put some grease on your steering stops. There is a thread somewhere that covers how to check all the common clunk stuff up front. Q) people generally don't like ALL CAPS TYPING A) I am usually a search Nazi and most questions from new members have been covered MANY TIMES BEFORE. Z) welcome and post some pics.

I used XJ Lift springs sold by rough country and was topping out the stockers on every turn. By the time I replaced them (1 week) the internals were so trashed you could slide them in and out with NO effort at all.

for pre 90 vehicles you can bring a lock cyl to a lock shop. the internals are numbed and they can cut a key to that. Your lock cyls may be wore out too...

I think all VINs after the early 90's were stored in a computer system with key codes.

on the top of the compressor is a plug for the pressure switch. run your AC till the clutch engages to see witch wire is positive. That will be your wire.

I would say look at the list of altys on the Nissan nut page and see if there are any of those vehicles over there... Does the patrol have a larger alty that might fit?

Just my opinion here; My pathy has been thru like 5+ alternators in the past 20 years. All of them were heat failures or VR failures (power surge). I think an upgrade is a wise choice as 70A altys are always working near 90% around town and offroad. (worse, pre-90's had 60A) For reliability reasons I don't think any vehicle with, should have less than an 80 or 90amp alternator to reduce the workload % and increase the life.

Could be your forward main seal or your forward cam seals. or all 3. you'll need to remove your timing belt, and timing gears and inner timing covers to get to all of them. See Timing belt in the how-to section for guidance. If its really bad I'd fix it soon, the Oil may be softening up your timing belt.

JDM vs USDM VG30 JDM VG30's bolt right up, they may or may not have a slighly longer duration cam wich makes highway driving more pleasant but with no loss in bottom end power. Accessory drive may be different but you can swap over your old parts for that. Everyting else is the same. Be sure to; change ALL the seals; RMS, FMS, Cam seals and rear cam cover plates Change the Timing belt pull the vlave covers and oil pan (oil pan seal) to examine the rockers to get an idea of the condidtion of the oil system. It may need a good flush. lots of JDM engines come over here with low mileage but nobody over there seems to take care of an engine that they will only have for less than 60k (mileage tax)

My fan has been fully submerged many times and still no new engine... Water is not the end all be-all of electricity like people think it is. yes it will damage electronics with close exposed cirtcuts but you can run 12v wires into a bucket and still power a light bulb. Its not an absolute short it just has low electical resistance compared to air. one day my thermostat failed and my student 4x4er did not see the temp gauge go up. it got hot enough to burst a hose and I still have my 21 year old VG30. These engines will not die with one or 2 overheats...

It tells you to paste the EMBED link but you only need to post the URL.

well I got mine running again this weekend. Its been sitting for quite some time... I still need to make up a wire harness for it to get all the lights going. I'll be going 12v conversion too.

90-92 M30 ecu don't forget your titania 02 sensor and MAF. nisstune daughter boards can go in just about anything but the thing with the M30 ECU is that you DON"T have to modify the board to do it. Other Nissan ecu's have to be socketed or have other changes made. the M30 is a "luxury sedan" so think smooth performance was the goal and everyone loves smoother application of power esp if its a little more power

I'm not seeing that spring adapter on their site. looks like making one would be pretty simple and net me 2 more inches of lift If I ever need to. 1" from new spring location and 1" from leaving the pigtail on the spring I used...

I don't have all links here with me. But read some of the limted success stories out there. I don't have an all inclusive answer and I say limited stories becuase most ppl seem to drop off after they get it running and forget to post results down the road. So if your up to it, you could pioneer a good writeup for us pathy guys. I plan to swap the entire m30 mpfi into my TBI pathy and depending on how much I like it my 94 might get an m30 ecu as well.

all you really need is the correct M30 pinout, witch is on z1performance.com (careful there is a wrong pinout there too) it can also be found in an M30 FSM (please share if you dowload one) the correct pathy pinout. (94FSM link should be pinned somewhere) the M30 MAF M30 o2 sensor automatic tps 94 pathy and m30 ecu the same? no, very different fuel maps. If they were the same z guys would be doing pathy swaps too instead of m30 swaps. if they were the same pathy's would drive allot better...

As a matter of fact, my friend is getting his ignition re-keyed next week for 40 bucks.

Its all good. Check out your MAF Check the wires at the plug, they are a common failure point. unscrew the maf from the housing and gently wipe the wires on the inside with an alcohol q-tip... 35 goes with my EGR theroy. CA models come equiped with an EGT sensor to monitor the condition of the EGR valve and verify is operation. If It's leaking enough it will disrupt your idle and when you accelerate its supposed to remain closed Hence the light because the sensor is reading hot under acceleration. My solution for that code was to install a egr block off plate and a Federal ECU. That stops the EGR from leaking (or even working) and the Fed ECU has no EGT sensor code to throw when it doesn't work. You'll need a 27mm or 1_1/16" wrench if you want to change it out.

I can't remember if the 3.3 has lager ports but all the bolts are in the same place. You should be fine.

if they used all the same wafer a first timer could pick that lock in 30 seconds or less.

And what do they mean? or do we have to look them up too before we help you? It kinda sounds like an egr issue but I'd know more if I memorized what all the codes mean....

Get a gasket that matches your block lay it on your head and trace openings for the passages. Then use a small roatary file (like a dermel) to walk the passages over to the gaseket openings you traced. This is common practice for later model head swaps.