MY1PATH

Looks like a HB with a Sunrader camper put on the back. If you Google Sunrader you can see Nissans, Toyotas and Chevys with Sunrader campers...

Best value right there ^ If I were to lift the 94 I would use those arms.

if you do not have a 3rd brake light the rear "spoiler" actually keeps your back window clean. Actually called wind deflector, it lost its effectiveness when they added a brake light under it and it changed the wind patterns.

Look around before you buy the 4x4 parts arms, some of them do not correct the ball joint angle just the alignment angle of the wheel. On the other hand some of them have installed fine and do their job. I'd chuck it up to poor quality control. Calmini is BEEFIEST you can buy but they do poor cleanup job before powder coating. Their customer service is poor but if you get them through Steevo He will go to bat for you if you have any issues. Rough Country and Super Lift (same arms I think) provide the best value in my opinion.

They run the same tranny. Are you sure its gear oil? If you have an RMS leak it will drip out the weep hole on the bell housing and get caught in the wind and run back. Other engine leaks can wind up in the under body too. Whatever the source, It may be only a few drops a day times a few years rather than a lager leak that coated everything quickly. If you don't back down, wipe everything down and see if you can find the source when you look for fresh trails.

More work on the cross member yesterday, I got it back from the powder coating. I think they used the wrong stuff cause its chipping too easy. But its here and I don't have time to dick around back and forth its going in! There's the new and old. Old being about 3lbs new being about 30lbs. There it is bolted in place while I mark the frame for welding. The Improved approach angle hides it from view looking straight on.... And Today I will weld it all in.

you don't have to match the exact years on the cams. All SOHC VG engines got the same cam bearing diameters and shaft lengths. cams 87-95 will work and as said above can be found on rock auto. I think they are sealed power brand. Also available are the European 300zx cams from Nissan, these were a stock cam over seas and provide more top end for better freeway driving while not effecting how it drives around town. Be sure to replace your lifers (I prefer clevite brand) use lots of assembly lube, a ZDDP oil for break in like royal purple or bradd penn racing oil. Follow the "RUN IN" procedure on the page linked below. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422

I think your over analyzing. If it doesn't turn over instantly it is not bad. As long as it does so in a few seconds and its not sounding like its weakening. Little bit of science here, when the engine is cold it brings in cold air and a rich mixture to ensure a strong start. If its not terribly cold outside it MAY kick right up instantly. BUT when the engine is warmed up the coolant lines in the throttle body heat up the incoming air so the air charge is not as dense and also leaner because the engine is not cold. So naturally warm starts MAY take a little longer and you should not be alarmed. If you are still concerned a video tells us allot more than "vrrrrommm"

So the price the difference between the Detroit (new link) http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/ProductsbyCategory/Automotive/DifferentialsLockingDifferentials/PCT_225759 and the Lock right. Is that the Detroit is a whole unit for $625 and the lock right is just the internals to convert your Open for $325. They style of operation (locking and unlocking) is similar http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/images/F7315075.jpg

I wish it was a bolt on swap tho. Maybe some sort of bell housing adapter can be made...

Skid plate, front sway bar (x is stiffer), Centerlink/ steering components can swap over but the exact match is the idler arm everything is real close. The list goes on, the X (wd22) and the pathfinder (wd21) are much closer relatives than the r50 pathfinders...

Seems a little slow. It kinda sounds like its stuttering too but that might be the sound quality... Have you done a tune up? Plugs, wires, cap and rotor?

Pezzy did a write up on her swap. What band she used, how to make the turn signal cancelators work etc... Search and you will find.

^ do you hear it running? if you do, siphon it out and try pouring some hot water in there. Run the pump in short bursts with the hot water.

RS5116 is the 24" 5000 series shock. Rancho is on their XL kick right now where the shock bodies get tripple walls and it makes them fat. good luck with the 5000's

Ok to save the mile of quote links I just decided to post without them. That mystery sensor on the right head is a head temp sensor for the ECU there is a coolant passage right next to it but the sensor itself stays dry. In pathfinders this sensor was only used in TBI's as both gauge and ecu sensors were moved to the coolant neck for MPFI pathfinders. Did your engine come from another vehicle previously? normally that spot is plugged. Good job on fill welding the snout, that's what I had to do. THE REASON it happens is because the key slot in the balancer and gear are too deep. they Key sometimes migrates out of its keyway(in the crank) and deeper into the key slot by about a mm and then begins wearing on the wall until it folds over. There are TWO solutions I have done for this; The first is insert a 1mm shim on top of the key so it cannot migrate away from the crank. Later on I machined my key way to a lager radius but of the same depth and used a larger key. Lastly, Sewbster that shoulder pictured above needs a washer pressed against it before the gear goes on and a second one on the other side of the gear. These washers are a little taller than the gear and give the t-belt something smooth to rub on. they are meant to rub just a little.

I WOULD NOT CUT A PRELOADED TORSION BAR. If you are going to cut them back the adjuster all the way off first.

There are different pumps but only for different vehicles. your donor engine may not have been in a pathfinder so the mechanic had to use the old engines water pump to make the belts line up. The bypass hose is a very short 90degree elbow that sits behind the upper timing cover between the dizy and the outlet to the radiator. It CAN be changed with everything in place But it is a PITA and may take 4 hours like mine did on the trail...

Those are not JCR bars. The JCR bars have a second set of adjusters the bolt to the frame. They are actually to sets of bars end to end. One set is a low spring rate and when it turns to its max the second set progressively increases your bottom out resistance. I do see 2 sets of adjusters and the tube more than likely providing the higher spring rate but I do not know what they are. It also looks like you can still install regular T-bars if you want to. Obviously you loose the dual rate spring but you'd still be able to wheel it. If I still had my files from the crash I would show you a picture of the JCR set-up.

Very good post B

Here Is my Input, Tactical Armor Group or T.A.G. out of Kennesaw Georgia was originally Kennesaw Mountain Accessories. KenMtn or KMA for short. I can only hope that under the new name they are a new and better start for future customers because they gave me straight crap and I had to wait 6 months and pay several hundred dollars for this CRAP. And I'm not the only one, just a quick google search pulled this up as the first result http://forum.ih8mud....re-carrier.html and many others like it. MANY UNHAPPY CUSTOMERS. I wish I had gone forum hunting for reviews before buying. In the end I wound up with a very nice KMA LOOK-ALIKE (or what it was supposed to look like) after re-building the entire thing piece by piece. Many think I should have built myself one from scratch in the first place. My whole episode with them and the re-build that followed it is documented here; http://npora.ipbhost...ndpost&p=444866 Good Luck with the New company name

your sprayer works first so that normally don't work kyle. you must have a leak or a delay in your wiring. It seems to me that all w/d21's the have the intermittent option do not have the single wipe option. My 94 is intermittent. My 89 is single wipe.

JWT S1 cams will give a noticeable power gain from about 2500RPM and up in a 3.0 and 2000RPM and up in a 3.3. A very worthwhile mod for highway use towing or not.