MY1PATH

BTW stock pathy shocks never fully compress, it hits the bump stops first.

First thing I would check is that hose coming out of the back of your cruise control going to the cruise vacuum pump.

Hit up MR 510 when you do your 3.3 swap. He makes a pulley hub that adapts the 3.3 crank to your 3.0 pulleys making everything a straight bolt-on swap.

You musta been unlucky, I've always had great customer service from them, returns, questions, problems... Maybe they are headed south... Others should pipe in soon to help...

The primaries are 1.5" what that means as that each pipe coming off the block its 1.5". The collector is where they all meet and your / their Y-pipe bolts up and that is 2.5" Thorely's are really thick and the ceramic coating holds the heat in Like a wrap would. 12-14 gauge is probably good if your going to wrap the whole pipe. 18 gauge is too light for wrapping.

If you do header wrap do not go cheap on the pipe. The wrap increases the heat inside the pipe (good) but also accelerates metal fatigue so If you buy thin pipes and wrap them they will only last a few years.

Seriously, how about you read some of the replies! I said get the pipe custom made with an O2 sensor bung. any exhaust shop should be able to do that. If you are this clueless about how everything should go together maybe you should stop by an exhaust shop. they have flanges, pipes, gaskets, adapters, lifts, welders, benders and everything else you need to build you a very custom 2.5" exhaust setup.

Yes I plan to do longer upper and lower. For now, cheap parallel links could do allot of good but eventually I will do slightly longer lowers and angle them inward (triangulation) so I can delete the pan hard bar. I have 3-4" of lift If you don't feel like running the numbers its ok, I'll understand.

DO NOT REUSE YOUR FLANGES, FOR THE SAME REASON AS I SAID NOT TO REUSE YOUR MID PIPE (O2 SENSOR PIPE). Heat shields can be trashed and any fitting, pipe or gasket etc that is from your stock exhaust is 1.825" Now why in hell would you put a 1.825" flange on a 2.5" pipe?

As far as the holes being off, look how the front half to the bracket is welded INSIDE the rear half of the bracket. Both holes are in the same place in relation to the edge but the halves are offset. due to the style of assembly.

4th is 1:1 5th is od, a measly Od that only drops you about 400 rpm. Red appears to be 'redline'

ok, here's what physically happened. when your rear wheels are spinning on ice your entire rear driveline is spinning faster than your entire front driveline. so when you pull the lever you are trying to use gears that are in motion to pick up gears that are, in this case, nearly stationary. Shifting on the fly only works when both drivelines are moving at the same speed. No damage happend, and yes I would call it a grinding sound, somewhat similar to truning the key when the engine is already running. Same applies to the Auto-hub pathfinders, the hubs have to be already locked by engaging from a stop and then driving before they can be shifted on the fly.

Because they function like crap upside down. Nice, so it did improve! Since you have all the measurements, would you mind running it again. Same alxe location and link length but I want to know if mounting the frame side higer or lower might yeild 100-110% Also does the ati squat reduce with a 3-4" lift (requireing different angles still)?

green and pink are the same pipe, pink just shows the heat shields. REPLACE THIS, have custom made with o2 bung welded to it. otherwise your larger red pipes will be bottle necked by it.

http://purenissan.com/wd21_3_kit.htm Bottom right of the springs, they call it a rear track bar backet. Idividually its about $70 IIRC and looks like 4x4 doesn't sell theirs anymore. Google is your freind, it can tell you ALL about panhard bars / track bars, 4-link and 5 link suspensions etc...

purenissan.com and 4x4parts.com

to get efficient true duals out of a pathy I think you need to use 1.5" pipe to keep the pulse velocity up. Now Dual exit isn't a bad idea and using a single in dual out muffler is the best place to do it because the muffler is where the exhaust slows down the most (and thus loses heat and creates turbulence) so why not give it more room to expand and exit at this point to counteract the slowing action of the muffler baffles.

Its to aid in centering the axle on lifed vehcles. Only consider one if you have 3" or more of suspension lift.

To expand a little more on what he said about U-joint angles... With a short upper link the pinion points nose down as the axle drops. Having shorter uppers makes attaining the desired anti-squat, easeir to set up. With equal links the pinion does not change angle as the axle drops. But makes attaining good ati-squat a little more difficult. I imagine he will be going to longer lowers in the future. with short lowers the pinion noses up and maintians an optimal U-joint angle (on the pinion side only) at all times BUT it ruins every other aspect of suspension geometry. Having longer links in general reduces the angle change of the pinion (when using un-equal links) and reduces front to back movment of the axle as it moves up and down. It also allows for more freedom of flex and more drop when the opposite wheel is stuffed. The gemety of the Stock Nissan suspension provided aprox 80-90% ati-squat to the Stock driving postion. What this means is when you step on the gas hard the vehicle resists sitting down in back. at 100% antisquat the vehcle stays perfectly level and at 110% or more the way the axle pushes on the frame actually pushes the wheels DOWN harder into the pavement and lifts the back of the vehilce. This is neat to watch on a car that has 120% or more but somewhat uncomfortable to because it is counter-intuitive to what the driver expects to feel and thus most cars/suv's are geometrically designed to to have ~80% anti squat. Without having exact measurments and an ati-squat calculator on hand its hard to predict what this mod has done for his anti-squat but I would like to see the result, hopefully it improved. I just wish I had time and a housing manager that didn't care if I worked on my truck... A garage would be nice. AK9849cy Make sure to cut a chunk out of your panhard backet next to your shock and re-enforce the bracket on the other side. or plate it in at a 45 angle (I plan to do this soon) my Right tire cannot drop as far becuase when only one side of the axle moves down the bracket binds on the shock. <This is the amount of Drop you need to hit the shock.

vg33 and vg33e are the same thing. there is NO vg33i unless you build one. vg - designation for that series of cast iorn block. 33 - displacement, 30 and 33 available in the usa other numbers were custom builds; 31> .060" over pistons; 34> a 33 bored out to 92.5mm to use Q45 pistons e - multipoint fuel injection (mpfi) this letter is often left off when describing a vg30e or vg33e engine. i - throttle body injection (tbi) only 2 injectors. only came stock in vg30i form 87-89 w/d21 this letter is also often left off. also the VG33 used different tentioners in different vehicles.

yeah the Jim Conner setups were geared towards baja racing and hard hit landings. the Dual shocks mounted UP in the wheel well and attached to a Jim Conner UCA. After so many hits a shock heats up and becomes worthless until it cools so 2 or 3 shocks were used to increase the damping oil volume and distributing the load across 2 or 3 shocks reduced the heat of each individual shock.

the original Nissan tool kit which is long gone in many ppl's pathys includes a special wrench for #6 plug.

LHD and RHD center links are the same, so are tie-rods. Idler arms and steering boxes, on the other hand, are not the same.

I think You can swap the entire R200 Carrier. I recommend using Diff drop bushings when you do the swap (4x4 parts advertises them as making 180 to r200 conversions easier) . You may need the R200 front and rear cross member to go with it. Imagine CV's and maybe even hubs may need to swap with to match splines. That being said, I think the r180 is plenty strong. The gear sets come from the same place and R200 Diffs have withstand 450 HP every day in the back typical High boost Import racers... So is 20mm larger really worth all that work for an engine that puts out 160hp tops? Maybe it is, maybe you plan to boost one day or drop in a 350. Or maybe you just feel like doing it anyway. That's fine, I just wanted you to consider the above first.

Didn't read all the jumbo but the only worthwhile swap would be the t-case shiftier if you plan on doing a BL. And the gears if it has a different compatible ratio that you desire. Compatible meaning, All USDM Pathfinders are H233b Rear and R200 front. Hard bodies varied.