MY1PATH

now you can swim to your mirror and nobody knows you have one. if you are missing that plastic fender linker I recommend making it turn 90 where mine ends so it will pull air from the vents by the windshield Or you could turn it up and follow the windshield for deeper water crossing.

Ground

working around the engine if my hands get cold I fire it up to add some heat. being that the alty/ water pump belt is off it should take a VERY short time for heat to radiate enough to make work conditions a little better. Don't do this more than a FEW min w/o the water pump.

It should all work. Most of the options available for each year model are usually pre-wired even if the option itself was not included. 1 harness design to cover thousands of pathfinders regardless of options selected. I think all You may need to do is add relays and fuses. But if I'm wrong its only about 4 wires anyway.

One more thing, I might add, after letting it run hot to push all the air out fill the overflow tank to above the max line. When it cools it will draw this extra amount into the radiator. You may not even need to top off after cooling.

If you are getting a grinding sound something is still in motion. 4H > N > 4L should be done from a complete stop. Use N with automatics to ensure there is no load present on the t-case gears.

Get ready to pull the dash apart to install the core. That's the biggest part, everything else, Pipes drier, pump etc should bolt on pretty easy(by comparison at least). Make sure you check your wires on the compressor so that it shuts off automatically when cooling is sufficient.

I need a break, where are those rattle cans I forgot to buy? I feel like being artistic with someones manifold cover. this afternoon I went to the JY to pull a few things I missed for my MPFI conversion and got kicked out at closing time before I was done... I hate being on grave shift sleep schedule.

I cleaned up an MPFI lower intake manifold for welding a custom sensor fitting on it Removed all the casting seams and slag from inside the runners Removed potential dirt traps from the outside so it wont trap as much mud and water Smoothed the exterior sharp edges so won't stab me the next time I have to yank on it to get it off of an engine. (pic maybe later) Then I spent 4 hours pouring over wire diagrams and making large piles of 22 year old electrical tape while I striped unneeded things like Electronic shocks, ABS controllers and AC (which might go back in) from the engine harness that will be going into my pathy.

the upper cylinder and valves

The big round thing on your firewall with the thingy that holds the brake fluid sticking out of it (brake master). Yeah, that thing Pull the rubber hose off of that and stick it in your can of seafoam little slurp at a time. I prefer water, its free but the smoke show does not last as long. I pretty much use seafoam just for the smoke show

the reviews suggest they are prone to leaking. Hopefully they have a good replacement policy. I may just get a few as well. funny, I would think binding would be an issue with the offset lift point, so keep that square tube greased!

I actually prefer bottle jacks. They can be much taller without being much heavier. They also make bottle jacks on rollers. I try to save floor jacks for things that are too low for my bottle jack to get under.

Those are correct but You missed a few.Below the Blue on the carbon canister is one more. It runs under the intake tube to a hard line. If you follow that hard line you will find another small vacuum line that goes from the hard line to the manifold near the EGR. Next to the firewall is one that goes the fuel pressure regulator sitting right below the back of the manifold. Check the one going to the brake booster. with the engine just shut off unplug it from the booster side. If you don't hear anything your booster check valve is bad. Check your PCV valve, remove it an turn it over gently in your hand. It should not click when moving it gently. But It should move freely when shaken. (replace if you have any doubts, its only a 3 dollars) Here's the big one, there is a 1" hose coming from the side of your intake tube runs to a hard line under the manifold. This hard line splits into two more large vacuum lines attached your two idle control devices. If either of these 3 lines are cracked or spit or only leak when the engine warms up they will give you troubles. Stretch all the other lines in your fingers to check for cracking as well.

Hopefully within the next year or two I will be. I will be running Nistune. After soldering a 28 pin eprom socket the and an additional 4 pin connector nearby, nistune daughter board drops right in (replacing the chip where the ribbon is) The daughter board offers real time monitoring and is hot programmable via the consult connector and nistune tuning software the software also displays any fault codes right on screen with code number and description. The Factory tune is always stored and can be reverted to at any time and there are 2 or 3 alternate tunes that you can store and modify on there as well. And then of course, you can store as many as you want on your computer and swap them in and out as desired.

I moved a green LED from an Un-needed and damaged CA emissions ECU to a good working M30 ECU. I'm assuming the M30 ECU never had green LED from the factory because they intended the dealer to use the consult plug for pulling codes. I do not and will not have consult but I am sure that since I added the green LED that I will be able to pull flashing light codes in the same manner as the stock pathfinders.

You sir, DID NOT HEAR IT FROM HIS LIPS. Do NOT condescend to me about what someone did or did not say to me because you are not here. We have had several discussions on milling VG33 heads down 1mm (MAXIMUM) and he admittedly told me he did not realize the impact on timing was as little as I said it would be. (which may have been a factor in him saying otherwise in the past I was not there so I will not comment on that) Keep in mind that milling 1mm will not effect belt routing in the slightest. If it was so problematic How would the race engine guys be running the SEC .020mm gaskets which actually lower the heads by 1.25mm. Please have some facts, don't state something as a fact simply because you think it so and maybe even get some hands on experience before you go saying the belts won't line up or other such things.I could go on but I give up on you. Hopefully your words don't poison someones build... Now getting back to the Original Poster http://www.paeco.com/ does what is most likely the most reasonably priced srtoker you can find in the us. It is an offset grind with the crank built back up to standard bearing diameter. You can get 3.6L out of this kit (I recommend using a 3.3 block for thicker walls) and any compression ratio you want. The pistons are likely forged (good for boost!) and as such you would not want to get on the engine until its fully warmed up. (forged pistons need to heat and expand) They will be doing my crank one day but I will be using OE cast pistons that do not expand as much so less gas is wasted on proper warm ups IF you believe in that sort of thing. I'm done here, I'm sure there are lots of options on strokers (fine) and probably some wrong information to follow as well (bad).

"don't use throttle body spacers they slow down your throttle response" lol JK Keep in mind how the spark wires attach to the pathy manifold. a 3/8" spacer will not allow the boot to seat if it is using the manifold pin. I plan to press my pins out shave down the pin bosses 3/8" and press the pins back in. A N/A 200sx user from z31p reported a 60F drop in upper manifold temp on a hot summer day. Its reconfigured that you remove your manifold and TB coolant lines when you us this spacer.

Lastly, there are no High CR pistons for the vg30e and vg33. If you want a cheap High CR 3.3 I THINK milling the heads and installing a fresh oem gasket will likely be it. This is based of the assumption that the deep 7cc valve reliefs in the 3.3 will require no modification. Your torque band will be shifted upward slightly but this may be fine for an automatic and a highway machine. This is the build I have planned for the wifes 94 I will also be using the European z31 cams and I expect about 200 Hp out of it. I would not bother with a higher CR with the stock 3.3 or USDM 3.0 cam because I THINK the short duration will yield minimal gains however, I THINK the S1 cam and the euro z31 cam will most likely love the 10:1 CR or close to that. The s1 might even like 11:1 but good luck doing that without a custom piston with a 7cc pop up in the middle.

Sorry buddy no clever calculator for valve reliefs, every head is built different. But here IS a calculator for you to play with. www.xenonz31.com/engines.html The vg33 dish is about 7cc, piston is 91.5mm and the Head gasket is 92.5mm all other numbers in the calculator are correct. ok, forget the whole parasitic drag crap about cams. They rotate at 1/2 the speed that the crank does and the amount of lift and duration have nothing to do with drag with regards to the lower RPM range. The REAL reason Big lift cams reduce bottom end power is for 2 main reasons. 1) the cam is usually designed to shift the torque band up for racing purposes 2) the added availability of air at low RPM reduces the scavenging velocity of the engine. This factor is often overcome when larger pistons are used because the added draw of the piston brings the velocity back up. Also wrong on the cam gears, their purpose is to locate the torque band where you want it. Yes on N/A motors they are almost never used with stock cams but with boosted motors they are used with stock and aftermarket cams to locate High RPM torque bands to match the spooling of the turbo or perhaps to get the ideal punch on a 7k rpm shift point on an engine that revs freely to 9k. In a 3.3 the JWT S1 cam behaves nicely gives great highway power and picks up at about 2k rpm. It may pick up a little sooner on higher compression. MPG's can be the same but if you are heavy on the skinny pedal they will go down. Due to the overlap duration this cam features enough natural EGR to remove the actual EGR vavle and still pass cruise level smog in many places (unless having the acutal valve is required) on the other hand the idle scores will be a little harder to pass. Milling the heads is NOT stupid it does not take the heads out of spec (because they should always be FLAT) and sealing will not be an issue with out wealth of 26 total head studs to hold our freshly milled heads to the OEM gasket that seals better than any other. That being said, You just have to be prepared for the extra steps required. That being said maybe, if you are afraid of these steps, you might call it stupid (hint, hint). BTW Tungsten, If I can't set you straight alone these words are also endorsed by MR. 510. Maybe have some solid information when you try to advise, such as having designed your own aftermarket cams and installed them and even dyno tested them from before and after. or perhaps dealt with other engines where milling is actually required if the head pulled after 250k (damn fords)

I deflated my rear tires (while on jacks), and used a cargo strap around the tire attached to the frame to pull the bead back pulled so I could get all the tree roots out of the bead. Then I attempted to re-inflate them until my pump broke. So I got them to 10psi (unladen) using a hand pump and drove to a gas station. Later on I consolidated 4 small boxes of MPFI parts into one big organized 45" x 24" box and then toyed with bunch of my MPFI conversion parts; getting them ready for the eventual install. I removed the waterlines going to the manifold and the TB, torched the carbon out of the EGR passage and soaked the runners to get some of the oily grime out.

The 3.3 pistons have really deep reliefs so hopefully you get lucky. One method is to put a layer of soft clay on one piston (you can leave the other pistons out for now) and install the head and timing belt with really soft springs on the valves so you can feel the valve on the piston instead of the spring resistance. NO SPARK PLUGS. Use your old gasket as it is pre-crushed and you only want to crush you new one once (actual install). After 2 full revolutions, or after you find resistance disassemble and look at the clay on the piston. where ever the valve pushed on the clay will be depressed. the lowest part of the clay should be .050" thick. if it is thinner than that or you have bare metal showing the valve reliefs needs to be cut deeper. Clean the parts thoroughly, some clays can be very corrosive (like play dough) there are other methods, but I like that one. maybe someone else will chime in.

My mistake, they are 4.5 and 6.5. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4.html call them up and say you just want the spring it should only be about $150 (the 3" were $120 when I got em) Chop the pigtail off and try it, if its too high remove about 1/4 of a coil at a time. Keep in mind that your CV's will not like being used if the truck sits higher than 3" lifted up front. Mine sit right on the limit, Just the raise from stepping on the gas is enough to make them chatter in 4x4.

what's to be skeptical about? thinner gaskets and milling down the heads both decrease compressed volume thus increasing Compression ratio. Thinner gaskets like SEC Pro Copper tend to leak around the coolant passages over time. they are great for race engines that see frequent tear downs but for longevity noting beats an oem factory gasket (260k still no leaks). leaving milling as the best option for long term reliability. removing 1mm from the head will net you a 9.88:1 compression ratio in a vg30 and 9.85:1 in a vg33, do not forget to check the valve reliefs to be sure they are still deep enough. Your valve timing will be retarded aprox. 2 degrees from lowering your compression height by 1mm. this will shift your torque band up a little but can be compensated buy using adjustable cam gears. MPG's... typically if you up CR by 1/2 point for every 10% increase in displacement your MPG will stay the same or possibly improve. Gains will also be had if an vehicle was under powered and lugging. A vg34 is just over 20% but the CR is up by 2/2. Mr. 510 has been getting about the same MPG with his VG34 as he did with his vg30.