MY1PATH

So, turns out the bolt patter for the MAF is different on the airbox... so I had to install the M30 Velocity port in the pathy airbox. this vitamin bottle was a tight fit to keep both holes lined up while I drilled the new holes through the port. then I opened the holes up to 1/2" and hot melt pressed the brass inserts from the M30 box into the pathy box (no picture yet) then slipped the velocity port on the inside with some sealant and shot it in with pop-rivets and sealed the heads.

a bad canister can be filled with water, or dirt. is it heavy? there is a test procedure in the FSM to see if air can go through the ports in the proper fashion. My 93 actually did this the other day. I was slamming the brakes allot to settle in the re-indexed T-bars and the tank was on the E. It went for a good long time before I pulled the cap. With one big WOOSH everything went quiet.

What I mean by wetter mixture is the almost 1.5 times as much (cold from the fuel tank) ethanol is injected than gasoline. 10:1 ratio vs 14.7:ratio believe it or not, this has an effect on your intake charge temperature, atomized fuel density and ultimately your pre-combustion cyl temperatures. this cools hot spots and combined it being higher octane (higher detonation temps) makes ethanol an extremely stable fuel for pushing vehicles to the limit.

I think Ethanol "burns cooler" because for one it is a much wetter mixture so the CYL does not keep as much heat after every intake event it final combustion temperature. AND two it's also cooler, not the point at which it combusts but the point after it has expelled all its energy. and what do you mean auto combusts? that sounds like detonation or diesel... gasoline and ethanol combust from and ingiton source (spark plug) and the resulting temperature is in the thousands of degrees and We do not wait for the desired temperature to blow our fuel up for us.

I would start by joining the z31performance board. (membership required for searching and viewing) Just sit back and watch, I found some conversions over there but most if it is for boosted applications. same engine though... and don't let on that you are doing this to a pathfinder lol. I can't remember the other boards I look at off the top of my head but google should help. there are also web pages with good info on them as well. Muscle magazine online might have something too... (as in muscle car I can't remember the exact address)

What! no seafoam videos? that's the main reason I seafoam! the smoke trail is the eye candy.

our stock 180cc injectors are way too small. at 80% duty cycle (industry standard) they limit engines to the 200hp range on gasoline. Will go beyond that just to maintain stock power on ethanol. You will need AT LEAST 270cc injectors. this will get you started but it probably won't be perfect. you may need to tweak the ECU a little to match the appropriate ignition timing curves for ethanol. Turning the dizzy will likely not be enough, you will want to change when and how much the timing changes to match the fuel. Look into nistune! I'm learning all this stuff right now, and I can tell you, there are not allot of answers (for this topic) on NPORA. but lots on other forums where ethanol conversion and tuning means they can make more power without risking the life of the engine. This is because of higher knock thresholds, higher boost pressures, higher compression ratios, more aggressive timing advance and all things that were previously limited by old gasoline octanes. Ethanol does not contain more energy but because it is safer, the engines can be pushed harder (100 hp harder) and thus it is getting its following in the racing crowd.

injector size calculation; e85 is 10:1 AFR and Gasoline (pure) is 14.7:1 so take your injector size and multiply by 1.47. 180cc x 1.47= 264.6 So, z31 turbo injectors or z32 non turbo injectors will deliver you enough fuel flow @ 270cc a min. That's your start! Your MAF still reads the same air and you o2 sensor reads a measurement on the lambada scale which is the same for almost all fuels that have burned completely and near their stioch ratio. So your 9.5:1 pure ethanol, 10:1 e85 14.5:1 pump gas and old 14.7:1 gasoline all show the same number on the lambada scale when they burn at their correct ratio. so it should work. what did he say? I said in theory all you have to do is increase you injector size and the rest should work like it should... ​But to fine tune it you may need to run something like Nistune and a wide band o2 sensor to dial in the ratio and fuel delivery. Don't forget all your fuel hoses and injectors need to be ethanol resistant or they will rot/fail. See my MPFI Swap thread for more details on injectors.

Well I wish there was an easy answer but there's not. The Nissan 6 speed transmission has a different bell housing pattern and does not bolt to the TX10 transfer case. I had looked into this myself at one time. But hey and adapter plate would be great if someone made one, or a few! A 'chevy' T56 (5 overdrive, 6 2nd overdrive) with a 3:1 NP205 transfer case (gear driven not chain driven) mated to it would be pretty sweet to have in a pathy. this is very true.

Mine sounds like crap, My pipes are rattling on the frame from a hard hit I took on the trail and I just haven't got around to that part of the problem yet... What's wrong with Variable Voltage? For now I'm leaving it because its easier to keep everything wired the way I found it. I think pathy PUMP and its compatible, I think the internals are the same and the only difference is the attached pickup tube/ strainer. Moving on... I made More progress today, I shed lots of rock hard and cracking electrical tape and other insulating materials. It seems they did their job for the last 20 years the wires inside are not brittle, only a little stiff near the connectors but since everything's closer on the pathy and I'm replacing most the connectors I get to cut back to nearly fresh wire. Here's my simulated engine bay to keep everything's orientation and allow me to move the project arround as a whole instead of piece by piece. Here's my completed injector wiring, coolant temp, fuel temp and cyl head temp wiring that I completed today. a close up of the Odd numbered bank and even closer on the cool connectors I am using for now. Now I get to move on to running wires for the upper manifold... I'm still waiting on my TPS connector and really all of this should be interesting since the wires will run under the upper and attach to the bottom and sides of the upper. At least its only 4 items and 3 new plugs total...

Today I made a simulated engine bay, it keeps my firewall opening in the right place in relation to the rest of the "engine" and allows me to move the entire project without taking it apart and moving it in pieces. Then I worked on the the project itself... If you didn't have tranny lines in the way you could just slide it forward with a slight twist and it would be out!Which injector is it? Good luck getting the injector out of the rail without removing the whole rail and replacing your rail seals.

A majority of the Pathfinder OEM electrical was supplied by Bosch, harnesses, connectors, sensors...

The 4.3 Vortec is a great motor but the stock form usually needs a little help, Generally adding a few ground wires helps it run allot smoother and running an MSD box take care of the low-end/ Off idle problems allot of them had. (a low rpm miss was not uncommon for them, especially when you wanted to get on it!) That and headers is all you really need to to put the 'getup and go' into this torquey old workhorse/ chimbin'/ wheelin' motor Now the non-Vortec 4.3's on the other hand, I would pass them by.

next time you hear the noise, take note; 1) is your tank less than 1/2 full? b ) if you pop the gas door open, before the noise stops, and unscrew the filler cap does the noise go away with a hissing sound? 3) this probably only occurs when you do something that shakes the gas in the tank. My guess is you are stirring up the gas and so it vaporizes more until the pressure gets high enough that it vibrates some of the filler tube (next to the pump) when is escapes. A fuel pump is more of a hissing sound but escaping vapors leans more towards a buzz. I would check for pinched vent lines, bad gas caps, and faulty charcoal canisters.

James your MAF is for a Z car. Pathys got a stupid 3 pin plug. But yes, after looking at few Volvos and not having the same luck as you I decided to just buy a new one with fresh terminals to crimp on for my M30 MAF.

lol I think those used to come on motorcycle tubes all the time.

The new plug (pictured left) is the link, that's where I got mine from. As far as I know the M30 Push Release plugs are not available new in USA unless collected by someone and sold on e-bay. They are the same plug as the z32 MAF and I ordered mine from Australia for a pretty penny and some pricey shipping. http://carcraze.com....-quick-release/

(tangent) I heard POR-15 was created by accident when sombody was trying to make cork board adheasive and it turned out to be a better paint/rust preventer than adheasive. Neat! (/tangent)

This has come up a few times in the past, You go to change your air filter but the lead on the MAF plug is so short it fights you. Maybe its wore out from people not being gentle to in the past it and one of the wires breaks or fatigued. Now you have a MAF code on your ECU or your truck just don't drive right. You go to a JY to find another to splice in longer and hope its not screwed up as well or maybe you got one of those fancy extensions but you still have to deal with that stupid little wire clip! What if you could just push a button and it was unplugged? Push, Pull, Change Filter, Plug Back In! http://www.weaponxperformance.com/catalogv137/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=253&zenid=a3608e1080e0b0fcecadc7897c2137c1 This is also the same plug used for the TPS Just push on the wire and it releases the plug. I have actually found this style connector to replace EVERY wire clip connector under my hood (injectors, cyl head temp, Knock, Idle, cold idle....) but the MAF connector has been the most problematic for many so I thought I'd share.

I think not, the M30 isn't any better than the MPFI Pathfinder as far as engine output. Its just smoother and more NissTune friendly. Both adapt to mods like, cams and headders better than the TBI does. So Based on adapting to my existing mods and the SMALL fuel injection advantage I plan to pick up 15HP at the very most.

Fuel consumption is crap, the engine has been cooked a few too many times and flooded a few too many times so my rings are worn out and don't seal till the coolant reaches 200F. If I do enough driving in a day to keep the engine hot it does ok but usually I get to work before the coolant is even 150F. But yes,hopefully I will see some gains. The M30 was getting about 27mpg hwy but its about 700 lbs lighter the engine(not mine) is in much better shape, its not shaped like a brick (not shaped like a race car either) and it doesn't have mud tires on it.

Today I assembled my MPFI conversion in the driveway and spread out the wire harness in the grass. Sitting in the sun I picked through wires and how to run them cleaning up the harness as I go and re-routing things in a way that works better for the Pathy intake. I wired the consult connector directly to the ECU plug and I have Half of the engine bay essentials done; CAS, MAF, IGN coil, IGN module, IGN resistor and Distributor "ground" from IGN resistor. You can see all these in their respective places and estimated routing before bundling on the right. And everything else that's in the lists below is on the left. That leaves the remaining engine bay essentials; injectors (and new plugs), Idle air control, O2 sensor, Cyl Head Tem, grounds and power to the harness And the following extras; Cold Idle thingy, AC compressor power, AC compressor override from ECU, Fuel TEMP, Coolant temp, Oil PS, Knock sensor, Fan output, AC fan output. And then lastly I have to Re-wire the fuel pump system with fully shielded wire for variable Fuel control, set up a location for the M30 ECU (Hidden above the glove box or on top of the dash. I also found out today that the M30 MAF is much larger than the Pathy MAF and the Pathy Intake hose will not fit over it. So I cut off the end of the pathy hose and cut off the end of the M30 hose. I then stuffed what was left of the pathy hose into the end of the M30 hose until the bellows interlocked. The M30 hose also had a stepped foam ring where its hose steps down to the Throttle body. I spread sealant over the union of my 2 hoses and stretched the stepped foam ring over it. Perfect Fit! This will work just fine for now. Maybe when I'm running a larger TB and engine I will upgrade the entire tube but as of right now there is no need.

I assembled my MPFI conversion in the driveway and spread out the wire harness in the grass. Sitting in the sun I picked through wires and how to run them cleaning up the harness as I go and re-routing things in a way that works better for the Pathy intake.

you could make one, but any kind of adapter you use will require you to shorter your bellow hose. the 3.3 upper plenum can be installed and then you will have your fitment for the 3.3 TB. BUT I don't remember if the 3.3 upper has bosses to attache the ignition coil and ignition module(I hope it does) since the 3.3 is coil in cap. Another option would be to do like the z crowd does, I think they go to a KA throttle? This fits on the pathy manifold upside down and the throttle cables come from the bottom twist the cable guides a little to match the angle. But why? The larger TB will net zero gains on a stock 3.0 it will make your off idle transition less smooth and will enable you to waste more gas because even when being gentle it will be letting more air in than the stock TB would.

Lokka is automatic it unlocks during turns unless you have your foot in it. all other times it acts like a spool ARB is air powered when you turn it on its a spool no matter what, when you turn it off its an open diff no matter what What fits your needs better? If its for the front I would rather have the Lokka or a clutch type LSD because turning a spool is really hard on CV's and it under steers pretty bad.