MY1PATH

I do have one more option up my sleeve that I've been holding back... VG33ER (supercharged x and fronty) injectors are about 320cc maybe more. They are less common, more expensive but they SHOULD be ethanol resistant since they were introduced after 2001 and they SHOULD drop in as they look physically the same as the 3.3 injectors.

ok, I lied (twice) firstly the pictures below will help me explain things and second the Phase 2 injectors fit but I would rather keep them in Phase 2 rails. The injector I tried the the first time in the pathy rail was new and I did not push it in all the way because the O-rings are single use and I did not want to crush them. So today when I got my own injectors I got to push them all the way in and find out that the Phase 2 will just barely seat because it has a lip on its top that goes into a counter bore on the Phase 2 rail. So I thought up several solutions. Shave off the lip on the injector--- this will work, the O-ring will go about 3mm deeper into the rail and the lower o-ring will be able to seat more completely.* Shave down the rail about 1.5mm---this will work, the O-ring will go about 1.5mm deeper into the rail and the lower o-ring will be able to seat more completely.* But you now have less threads for you O-ring cap. and the Pathy rail is too thin to counter bore so that is out of the question. Modify A PHASE 2 rail--- This is best, the injectors get the rail that was designed for them. you will may need to shorten the end of the rail so that it does not stick out too far behind your engine. (cutting and tig welding) and you will need to cut off the mounting tabs and weld new larger ones on in the correct location. Mister 510 MIGHT be able to set this up as a service because he's the one that will be doing the TIG welding for me AND he has a fixture for the lower manifold to setting it up will be easy. You would have to provide him with a phase 2 rail AND a pathfinder rail to combine as cores. *The Pathfinder rail has a slightly larger inside diameter where the lower o-ring seals. So even though 1 and 2 will work with a new lower O-ring, there is no guarantee on the longevity of the lower O-ring seal before it decides to flood your engine. And now for today's pictures. The last one is is just to show off my port work and spacer. ^ FUEL RAIL FITMENT ^INJECTOR FITMENT A little tip on removing the vg30DE/DETT fuel rails... look down at the injector clips first, if they have a little metal clip on the plug don't event start pulling it apart, they are the wrong ones. ONCE you see and unplug all the newer style push button clips remove the center cover, throttle cables and fuel lines. Remove the balance pipe and all wires tied to it. There should be 8 bolts down the center and LAST BUT NOT LEAST a support bracket on each side of the manifold with 2 bolts in it (I did not see these at first and it made things interesting...). Lift the manifold up a few inches and remove the 2 emission pipes screwed in next to the support brackets. Now flip the manifold up and you have access to the rails. Edit, I have confirmed that Pathfinder 3.0 and the 3.3 rails found in the quest, xterra, frontier, and qx4 are all the same rails. Below are images of the Phase 2 ethanol resistant (left) injectors and the old Phase 1 (right). Also pictured left is the Sumitomo electrical connector needed to run the Phase 2 injector. So if you want to keep your stock rails and run boost or convert to e85, you can run the ~320cc supercharged xterra injectors.

More notes; For NA engines the 270cc injectors should support an engine up to 250 HP. For all you 3.3 folks out there this is really good to know because your stock 180cc injectors limit you to about 200HP yes more can be had, (Maybe 225) but this is much exceeding the industry rated duty cycle of 80% and you are essentially pouring the fuel into the engine instead of spraying it in shorter controlled bursts. Upping your injector flow rates to correctly match your HP will allow you to deliver the correct volume of fuel, in a shorter, more controlled amount of time and in a more refined pattern that will not be as wasteful. Now turbo on the other hand... the Phase 2 370cc from the Twin Turbo 300zx should support you up to 280HP or 300HP if you bump the fuel pressure (like to 50psi) All Flow Rate and HP numbers were based on calculations found on http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Ok It's been mentioned here and there but I've been asked to put all my m30 mpfi swap info out on the table, it won't be very picture heavy as I go along, but here goes. I am converting my truck from Throttle Body Injection (TBI) to Multi- Port Fuel Injection (MPFI) In layman's terms that means going from 2 injectors to 6 injectors (one for each cylinder, like most modern cars) To do this, I need to change over the entire Intake System, Fuel System and Electrical System. Wanting the best of all worlds in terms of fuel economy, performance and reliability I am planning on mixing and matching the best of parts from 3 different Nissan/Infiniti vehicles... MPFI PATHFINDER INTAKE: The MPFI intake found on 90-95 pathfinders is my best option. It features long intake runners and maintains good intake velocity at low engine speeds while evenly feeding all cylinders. The North West has more pathfinders than any other region so these parts are easy to come by. I can also use the 3.3 upper manifold which features a larger throttle body as well but keep in mind larger throttle bodies make it easier to waste gas unless you are more gentle on the skinny pedal than you were before. INFINITI M30 WITH NISTUNE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: This is what sets my plan apart from any other MPFI conversion, I am using the complete ECU, harness and sensor array from a 1990 Infiniti M30. THESE ARE VERY RARE. They were considered the brain child of Nissan SOHC ECU's*** and the one of best SOHC ECU candidates to use with NissTune because of the Check Connector laptop tuning interface (NissTune only) This allows user friendly performance and economy tuning as well as ready adaptability to upgrades. (this is not a Mega Squirt battle so shut up*)I think the only ECU better is the z32 ecu. Notes for those wanting to convert an already MPFI to the M30 ECU: I don't think its really worth it, the biggest performance benefit to the M30 ECU is that it runs a higher resolution MAF. You will need to re-pin the ECU connector or make an adapter harness out of an old pathy ECU socket and an M30 harness plug. (FSM for both cars can be found at http://www.nicoclub.com/fsm You may choose to add the A/C cut off wire to the A/C relay which allows the ECU to shut off the AC compressor under heavy acceleration. You need to use the M30 MAF. This is better than the pathfinder MAF anyway and can work well for 200+hp applications A Z32 MAF can be used for 300+hp applications BUT ONLY if you are using Nistune otherwise your metering will be off. If you are re-pinning the pathfinder harness the 4 wire MAF has an extra ground; both center pins can be the same wire as long as it goes to both chassis ground and the correct ECU ground pin*** *** You need to use the M30 Titania o2 sensor OR 89-93 Pathfinder Titania o2 sensor (small bung)The Pathfinder sensor has a longer pigtail and the signal wire and shield are wrong so you must swap the middle pin on the 3way plug with the pin on the one way plug*** * All others are Zirconium and will not work. Zirconium sensors GENERATE their own electricity and can damage Titania sensor based ECU's If you do not wish to use a fuel temp sensor you need to run a 1.5 kOhm resistor to ground for that wire. A sensor can be added simply by tack welding an m10x1 nut to your fuel rail. if you keep the variable voltage fuel pump control you SHOULD run a shielded wire from the ECU to the FUEL tank or the 20hz pulsed frequency may interfere with other electronics in the vehicle (stereo, GPS, CB etc...) If you wish to bypass it see the image below for Full Power Fuel Pump... There is a FPR vacuum solenoid (same as egr solenoid just hooked up to the Fuel Regulator instead) that allows the ECU to raise the Fuel Pressure for faster start ups. This part is optional and no codes or running problems come from leaving it off. (in the end I removed mine, its not such a big deal) The EGR system and EGR solenoid can be left off in the same fashion BUT ONLY if you have a federal ECU. (CA ECU's require an EGT sensor inside the EGR passage) Check Connector (Consult) can be cut from the drivers dash panel and wired directly (or extended) from the ECU harness for quick access wherever you want to put it. The pathfinder throttle switch is wired backwards from the M30. (square plug, the round pigtail one is TPS) Pins A and C need to be swapped.*** ** This will mess with your idle if you don't fix it. (more notes to come as I think of them) Pathfinder MPFI ECU With NissTune???:The physical layout of the pathfinder board is the almost the same as the M30. They use the same chip with a slightly different program and I believe the Nistune Type II board (same used for M30) will work in a MPFI pathy computer just fine. I will inquire about that when I order one for my M30 ecu.IF NissTUNE can be installed on a Pathfinder ECU then I believe the M30 MAF can be calibrated in for use with the pathfinder... (coming soon) Z32 300ZX FUEL SYSTEM**: For now I am using the MPFI pathfinder fuel system 180cc side feed injectors. The original plan was to use 84-89 300ZX Turbo (z31) 270cc top feed injectors but these cars are getting rare and I happened to find something much better. The 270cc z32 Phase 2 injectors found in the 1994+ NA 300zx are ethanol resistant, feature a pintless design and weather resistant lower corrosion connector. That's 3 improvements over the z31 injectors but it gets better... the Phase 2 injectors are side feed and fit in pathy fuel rails. This gives loads of drop in options for flow rates and the 270cc Phase 2 units are found in loads of Nissan cars and are also cheaply bought re-manufactured! So that's what I'll be using once I get Nistune up and running. More info on the Phase 2 injectors can be found here. http://z32.wikispace...m/Fuel+Injector Do note, the Phase 1 will not fit, I already tried it. Full Power Fuel Pump * I have come across many people in real life and on the internet who have told me I could do it better, easier cheaper with mega squirt. I DON'T CARE! THIS HIS HOW I'M DOING IT! /rant **To preface this I will likely be tuning for e85 at some point to help with smog tests and with gas being at 10% ethanol and possibly rising to 15% I want to be prepared. Ethanol eats older style injectors...To run e85 and sleep well at night I need something more ethanol resistant... *** The were originally favored by the z31 300zx crowd because of the Consult tool capabilities and refinements over the z31 computers that were some times buggy and had injection issues among other things. The m30 uses the injectors sequential fire (one at a time) and then batch fire (all at a time) at Higher RPM but the z31 uses bank fire (1,3,5 and 2,4,6 alternating) and then batch fire at Higer RPM. All that being said, electronically the M30 ECU is really not much greater than the the other vg30e ECU's of the 90's like the Maxima, and Pathfinder. *** * o2 rewire Make sure you use the 89-93 Pathfinder Titania o2 sensor (small bung) if you do this. The advantage is A long Pigtail on the sensor. *** **(pictures of TPS rewire coming) *** *** 3pin to 4pin MAF; (N60 & N62 on the MAF Label) (borrowed from NICO Club)

Yeah the one in my 89 feels like its not even there but I will probably do it just for the hell of it. I'm due for a full bleed and this just simplifies things.

OOPS, Fixed.

More info for searchers! Definitive list for mechanical speedo gears. Re-post or pin as necessary. Sorry it looks small, It was a REALLY big Picture and Photobucket put a limit on it. 16t and 21t are rare, they may not come up in every dealer/vendors database but they do exist. 18,19 and 20 are very common in junk yards. 17t is not as common in junk yards but still out there. 17, 18, 19 and 20 can all be found at dealers for about $20. -Credit to nissannut for helping get my Speedo straightened out years ago. His old Speedo page is displayed on the right.

I re-indexed the T bars on the 93 because the driver side was maxed out and not level. I need to do the passenger one again because I turned it too far and so the adjuster hangs too low. The Adjuster bolts were pretty beat up, I looks like someone took a rattle gun to them a few times without removing the jamb nut. Probably happened when the transmission or clutch was changed. Also checked the speedometer gear to be sure it was the right one for my Gear and Tire combo. Here Is my collection of gears. And here is some Data I put together for others about what to use for each Gear and Tire combo.

Yeah but it works best for street use as a stock pickup truck. It reduces braking force to the rear wheels when the truck is empty so they don't lock up on an ass light truck and spin around. If you lift it you have to extend the linkage or it will never activate under load. And when wheeling its pretty much useless. With it bypassed; Just don't brake like a moron and you'll be fine.

Yeah Bypassing the LSV is a good way to go especially on a lifted truck. Makes things allot simpler.

Tame it lol. You mean the chirping around corners? (let off the gas) The noise? or the slight binding feeling you get when turning? These are things you will have to live will when using a lock right. I, on the other hand, have a MODIFIED LSD. IF I goose it around corners it locks (or if its slippery out it will too) up but turning regular on dry road it acts normal. It took 3 tries but I now have the pre-load set specifically to where it does not bind or wear tires excessively on the street but will pull the whole vehicle off of jacks when just one wheel is touching the ground. (so spinning the wrong wheel on the trail is not an issue.)

I replaced the big thing on the right with the little thing in the middle and its label in on the left if you want to do it too... More info in the garage "HOW TO: Clutch Damper Bypass" I tried to level the front of my T93 only to find out the drivers T-bar is maxed out. so I guess I will have to re- index those... Lots to do on the new pathy but at least worrying about the tranny is not on that list.

I never had this trouble in my 89 but my 93MT Clutch Damper was acting up when I got it. The purpose of the Damper is to slow the release of the clutch to make shifting a little smoother and to reduce Clutch Fork Chatter by maintaining a small amount of pressure against the Fork even when the clutch is fully mating with the Flywheel. Well fork chatter is nonsense, you can't hear it inside a rig like pathy and it doesn't hurt anything. A good driver having their pedal feedback soaked up by a damper is nonsense as well. In the 94's case it was releasing too slow. You could side step 2nd gear at idle and it would pull forward. (This is not a worn clutch because you can still stall it against a curb.) I found someone on NICO that had done this and then I took some pics of my own when I did mine. http://forums.nicocl...ss-t467425.html As seen above the Damper can be found on the Passenger firewall (LHD models) Below the wiper motor and AC lines into the firewall. I hit each flare nut with some PB Blaster the day before and again today before putting a wrench on them. First Open the Bleed screw on the slave Cyl and pump as much fluid out as you can so none gets on your firewall or fenderwall, Its bad for your paint. Stuff a rag in there and unscrew the flare nuts. now remove the Damper. It has four M10 bolts but easier yet is to remove the whole bracket which is just two M10 bolts (red arrows) Now have your bypass ready. You need an M10x1.0 inverted flare coupling if you use anything else your lines will leak. The NICO write up gives a Napa PN 7934A but I got handed the wrong item for $7 and wound up using a $3 Dorman Part from Auto Zone. Dorman PN 785-438 Just about any Auto store can get you any Dorman part you ask for. Brake/Clutch hard lines are easy enough to bend but they can be very springy. instead of trying to bend the lower line at the tip use the springiness to your advantage. grab the whole loop and twist it until the two flares nearly touch. Now when it gets springy it will help you put your bypass piece together rather then fight you because you just tried to move the end. Before you move on make sure none of the lines in any of the loops touch, otherwise they will chafe when you are driving. <- Two Flares nearly touching Now to put the Coupling on. Do the bottom first, you can slide a 13mm socket over the coupling and zip it on while holding the lower flare nut with a wrench. When you do the upper you can put a wench on both upper and lower flare nuts (two 10mm open ends) and you can seat both flares equally. The bracket is no longer necessary because there is not enough weight there to do any damage. Lastly, Refill and bleed the clutch. Since the bleed screw does not point up, I highly recommend running your drain hose over the torsion bar and then loop it higher than the screw after that. This way so the bubbles move up and away from the screw and you can also more clearly see how your bleed is doing. enjoi

Port matching my lower manifold to my intake spacer. All the ports had 0.045"-.075" to be removed to match. But one of them needed about 0.100" removed. After matching the opening, the area below needed to be blended to prevent narrow spots and or wide spots. So basically the entire port was opened up some for the purpose of maintaining contour. Lastly all cracks, seams, grooves, bumps, casting flash and tool marks were removed using an 80 grit flap wheel.

I believe both things individually. But I do not believe that and N/A 3.0 could blow a seam on any muffler at any RPM. I take my engine up to 6k on a daily basis and I still have all my seams... More likely your @!*% rusted out and you didn't notice the change in sound until you got on it.

X2 Copper in a tube BTW option #3 is NOT for high temperatures.

I think that much weight (tire + door) on a single rear pillar is enough to make it fold in on you meaning after the first few times of opening and closing your rear door will no longer line up. At this point its pretty much like designing a whole new rear-body and less like modifying the one you have. So really your best options are. !) do like B said chop the whole rear section, pillars, light, door and all off of an H3 and splice it into your PF body 3) get an H3

Hey guys, If you have a nice watch, now would be the time to hold it over your head... the bull@!*% is getting pretty deep.

x2 MR510 has adapters going into production that make the swap a piece of cake

Well I have been busy but here and there I managed to do a few things. Yesterday I fabbed up some mounting brackets and welded them to a Smittybuilt I have laying around and it bolts directly to stock bumper mounts. Today I'm going to install the turn signals and later on I will build some lower supports for it that tie into the bottom of the frame to make it easier on the stock hardware. Last night I Mr510 and I put together a PCV baffle for my valve cover to reduce oil consumption and raise the tube a little to match my intake spacer. No pictures of the inside, I forgot and pictures of the outside will come after both valve covers are painted. Speaking of Paint of and on over the last month I've been working on this for Kingman's pathy. He has a 300zx intake on his and the cover goes right over the top. By the way, James, ^ That is red. I got a ASCO intake spacer that will go in with my MPFI swap. They sent me a COOL NISSAN shot glass and it makes the spacer look like a shot glass holder. And I replaced my stock mid pipe with 2.25.

05+ WD22 is not wd22 its an N50 it varies greatly from its first gen and even from the frontiers of the same year witch became D40. There was never a WD40 in the USA.(except in a blue aerosol can) The WD21 and the WD22 share compatible steering components, skid plates, sway bars are close and UCA's are very similar as well but I've never tried to see if they are compatible (they do attach to the frame a little different. The front diff and I believe even the CV's can swap as well. Underneath the body the wd21 and the wd22 are basically the same just not exact clones and the rear is obviously different. the rest of your questions have been answered many times over. use Google to help you; Search: UCA site:npora.ipbhost.com Replace UCA with whatever other terms. There are a few good threads but every day they get harder to find because repeat threads like this keep popping up in searches. Hell, it might even be pinned in one of the vehicle sections for easy reference.

My opinion; Slotted and cryo treated Allows for pad out gassing, clean pad surface and less distortion / warping under extreme heat conditions. http://www.frozenrot...ar+disc+brakes/ Use the hawk pads from the same site or EBC greenstuff.

TRY Nissan4wheelers.com I remember reading about it there but I can't remember anything else.

If I'm not mistaken the (we'll call it) door stay is two pieces of stamped metal back to back that pass through a set of spring loaded [pins, rollers or bearings]. First thing I'd try is pulling the roll pin on the door jamb and then prying the two stamping s apart a little bit and putting it back together If that don't work then the next thing Id do is take the stay out and see if I can rebuild it. Here's me guessing again: See if the springs inside can be replaced with something off the shelf. a few screws on the outside and it falls into the door and you take the door panel off and pull it out... The rest is unknown...

Do you still have the old EGR valve. Test it and if its good keep is as a spare. I never buy new ones I just go to the JY and test them. When closed they should not allow ANY air past them (now wipe your lips lol) then apply suction to the little tube on the top (you can use a hand held vacuum pump silly) to be sure that the Diaphragm and needle valve inside move together. An Vacuum tester is less than $20 and a working used EGR is usually about $10-$20