MY1PATH

In order to maintain the spring rate the wire must be thicker the longer it gets. Example: If the stock spring compressed 1" under 180 lbs but a 3" taller spring with the same wire would compress 1.25" under 180 lbs

I think so, Mines not finished so I have not tested it for strength but, unmodified, the opposite side totaled a blazer with only the loss of a tail light and a 1/8 misalignment of the door jamb. Not called hard body for nothing.

When you install them, heat up the pigtail with a torch and straighten it out. this should give you an extra 1/2" for sag VS just chopping it off. They behave exactly like a stock spring only taller so if you sagged 1/2" loaded up with stock you will sag 1/2" with these.

SchizophrenicMC here's some food for thought about bore vs stroke. Yes a stroked vg31 would make more torque (and be really cool) but a 3.3 still gets a good measure of torque from its larger bore compared to the 3.0 (either way works for me ) Now with money being no object, nissan motor sports played with EVERY combination of bore and stroke imaginable in the vg30 and vg33 for their baja race trucks. If I'm not mistaken they went all they way out to 3.8 liters with bore and stroke. But what they finally settled on in their endless budget was a vg34. STOCK 83mm Stroke and 93.5mm bore. they were known to be torque monsters. They found that Being over square by 12% (putting them in middle of the magic10-15% range) set them up for the optimum torque to hp ratio across the entire rpm range for optimum acceleration. And as an N/A motor it was still small enough to not outflow the restrictive sohc heads which were wildly ported to keep it from running out of air all the way up to 6500 RPM. Adapt this combination to a turbo build where running out of air is no longer an issue even with stock heads and the results are tremendous on low boost. Now I'm not saying your way is wrong but you did come across sounding like James way was wrong and yours would be better and make more power. Anyone can build their engine however they want (paeco engines does a well priced VG stoker if your interested) and now you even know about what a factory racing team with 'limitless' budget played with and settled upon.

I am running springs that are meant for front 3" lift on an XJ Cherokee. stock springs are 16" the 3" XJC springs from rough country are 19" and the same spring rate as stock. Most other spring options; GJC, Ford coils, AC/ 4x4 parts, calmini. achieve their lift partially through higher spring rate so naturally they get loose with 3" longer shocks. I installed my springs without a compressor and I had to lift the frame a few inches past my extended (27") shocks in order to get them in. My springs would probably get loose with 30" shocks but I'm not there yet and when I am I can use the 4" or 6" XJC spring instead.

No James, smaller engines and less boost make more power! I thought you knew that lol. WTF are you trying to do with more boost and bigger pistons anyway? I removed the 2 chunky emissions components from my driver fender wall. I will not be needing them when I switch to MPFI and the air box needs to go there anyway.

I made 4 individual brackets, I didn't want to bother with matching the inside contour so they don't touch the corner. each one is a 1/8 sheet of steel with 2 nuts welded to one side and a larger washers welded to the opposite side. I slapped them in there with some sealant to hold them in place when the hinge is not mounted.

sweet, sounds like you got a plan then

yes, but on the W/D21 the door side of the hinge is welded to the door.

x2 on the boat vent Idea. the vents are longer and much better looking for vehicle applications.

As far as acceleration and MPGs, every 20 lbs of rotating mass after the drive shaft is the equivalent of carrying 200 lbs inside the vehicle. every 4~7 lbs for drive line every 3~5 lbs for engine internals / flywheel

completely removed the engine harness from and infiniti M30. Oh wait what did I to to my pathy... Drove it to David's where the M30 is parked and got excited about doing my MPFI swap...

The right WILL NOT swap to the left without serious modification. To include grinding off about 1/2 inch of material from the upper or lower half of the bracket and the back filling the opposite half all while matching a 3 dimensional contour of the body work. Yes, I have done this first hand.

Yes, its called deep creep throttle body cleaner. It does not clean the engine, it is meant to clean up the mechanical parts of the throttle when the engine is turned off.

A while back my friends were talking me into taking the pathy to the drag strip. I wanted to set up that very Smoke screen setup SchizophrenicMC is talking about but with water instead so I could at least have something to show for my raging 20 second car lol. Water is cheaper and smells better. So I have less guilt about smoking as often as I want.

The smoke show used to be reason enough to do it for me sea foam smoke lasts considerably longer than water mist, or atf smoke. Sea foam next to an on ramp and flog it getting on the freeway Generally the smoke is light colored but I have seen sea foam smoke come out very dark and stinky; I sea foamed a very neglected Celica the air filter was black and it hadn't had in oil change in well over a year (as a daily driver), only 1.5 qt of thick Hershey Syrup came out (supposed to be 3 qt) The second oil change with some sea foam brought out more sludge and the smoke from sucking it from the brake booster was the worst sea foam smoke I'd ever seen. the car ran considerably better immediately after doing this. but in all other cases I have not really seen and big improvements from doing sea foam.

Your fender wells are undercoated to protect against road debris. Its much tougher than your exterior paint job.

the only way to increase spring rate is to use a stiffer spring. If you put a spacer under a coil the vehicle becomes taller but the spring rate is the same. If you put a lift block under a leaf spring the vehicle becomes taller but the spring rate is the same. If you rotate a t-bar either by re-indexing or tightening the adjuster the opposite end rotates proportionally, the vehicle gets higher but the spring rate is the same. The ONLY exception to this is when you tighten it against the bump stops; you loose all you down-travel, and the opposite end has nowhere else to go so instead of rotating proportionally it increases the preload and your ride goes to crap because you are riding on the bump stops. In all 3 instances the only thing you are changing is the resting point of the spring.

Really it depends witch year of each. I would take the w21 over any of the new patrols. But an old one with an H233B up front and a retro-fit QD32+T or maybe even a TD42+T would be my toy of choice out of any other nissan/dasun 4X4

No, generally, just let it stuff and rub. The inner lip of the fender can be massaged so it doesn't create a hang up point or threaten to cut the tire. But otherwise, let it rub!

stick your head down by the pedal. You'll see a switch for the clutch, I can't remember if its normally closed or normally open. Unplug it (normally closed), if it still don't start jumper it with a paperclip(normally open). It either one solves the problem you can replace the switch or just remember not to hit anything when you start it.

There are Clear plastic ones on ebay, they look good and they cast allot of light down the road. I also found that they seem a bit scattered above the cutoff area. I painted the border of the lenses to help remedy this but really, unless you aim them low, their weakness will be a little bit much upward light when its foggy. other than that I really liked them. If you really want the best light pattern possible convert to the HB square beams and run CIBE conversion headlights in them. Also with square beams(future upgrade) you can run the Pegasus Hid that the MR2 crowd likes. No Hi-Beam the the driving light has a very bright but soft even pattern with a clearly defined sharp cutoff.

95? You're gonna need a BIG wench, 45mm? 47mm? its huge... I think you share the same arm as the 93.5 and later models. I think you can also use first gen xterra and fronty arms. You will need a good STRONG puller. DO NOT USE A PICKLE FORK OR PRY BAR.

It would, but I don't know if it is pre-wired or not. you may have to run your own wires, I believe its +, - and Signal which either runs off of the CAS or the coil/transistor. Check a FSM for the wiring diagram to be sure on that 3rd wire.

The button is hollow so put a vise grip on it to steal the heat and don't zap it too hard or you will put a hole in it. You may have to quench between really short zaps to get enough build up on it.