MY1PATH

Right, nobody ever gonna NEED a z32 MAF in a pathfinder.I say "200+hp" for the M30 MAF because If your not making OVER 200HP you don't really need an M30 MAF.

The M30 MAF has a 6 pin plug but it only uses the 4 center pins the extra pin is an additional ground. SO pathfinder MAF is W for ECU, B for ECU, B/W for power AND The M30 MAF is W for m30ECU & pwr, B for ECU, B for eng gnd, W for ECU (colors may not be the same between the 2 different vehicles So you may have to try the ecu only wires twice to get right) All wire diagrams can be found in the FSM (factory service manual) and the digital copy for both vehicles is available @ www.nicoclub.com/fsm (for 90 pathfinder use Hardbody/ d21_truck_1990 PDF) The pathfinder already has a check connector (consult is the device you plug into it) But codes can be pulled directly from the ECU (use search function or read the FSM) Lastly, Tho I mentioned it being do-able in the OP I do not think it is worth it to swap an already MPFI Pathfinder to an M30 computer. The VG30 Pathfinder, M30 and Maxima all came with better electronics and software than the older 300zx cars did. (I have more to say but I'm out of time)(had to go to work) /pause The physical layout of the pathfinder board is the almost the same as the M30. They use the same chip with a slightly different program and I belive the Nistune Type II board will work in a MPFI pathy computer just fine. I will inquire about that when I order one for my M30 ecu. The main differences the M30 offer include; The use of a Higher resolution MAF; any resolution MAF you choose can be calibated in if you use nisstune. This is ideal for 200+hp builds use the M30 MAF and 300+hp builds use the z32 MAF Use of a Titania o2 sensor; this is not really such a big deal, yeah its higher resolution but if your going for power you will be using a wideband along with nistune to genarate a map more accurate than either of the narrow band o2's are capable of Variable voltage fuel pump control; not really needed, its a luxry/ noise reduction item and it can be bypassed if you chose Variable fuel regulator; vents regulator vacuum to atomsphere, this raises the pressure to 43psi for quicker starts because vacuum brings it back down to 36psi. This is mostly used for starting becuse vacuum drops when you hit the skinny pedal anyway. It can be left off if you choose. Fuel temperature monitoring; uses a sensor physically touching the rail or regulator (does not have to touch fuel itself) to adjust mixture if fuel is exessivly hot. If not used you must bridge it using a 1.5k ohm resistor to ground so it thinks the fuel is always at the ideal temperature. Out of that list, Only the higher resoultion M30 (or z32) MAF really matter when it comes to performance and that can be calibrated into a Pathfinder ECU using nistune. UPDATED OP

Well today I got my whole upper and lower manifolds situated as well as all the Vaccum hoses set up good. I had to go through and do some cleaning, Here is a sample before and after of the TB...

On a slight Tangent, I will be using my motorcycle to commute and run short errands while I'm at Mr. 510's house doing the swap. To get my truck and bike there at the same time I built this little trail behind, dolly. Its not quite finished, but you get the idea... More to come (soon I hope) but progress has been slow due to work being bussy and being called in on 12 hour shifts over the weekend. (Taking up all my project time )

Well, for everything attached to the engine; I got Run, Bundled and wrapped all the way to the firewall. I converted the FICD into a Fan Control so the Fan comes on with the A/C. (3.0 Pathfinder Manifold has a pressed in plug where FICD would go) Now I need to figure out how to run power to the harness, add a few relays, and all the In-Cab electrical (fuel pump, Tach, etc...)

TBI ECU and wires are no longer in the cab Soon everything TBI will be de-bundled (from lights and starter etc) to a state that I can just Unplug and remove. Meanwhile I hope to complete the other harness this coming weekend and poke it thought the firewall and re-bundle with the existing [lights, horn, starter] so that it will be ready to plug in and go! Just a few hard tugs and the ECU came through the firewall!

Finally got My NEW MAF PLUG from down under and my ECU is fitted to the glove box with harness attached. (not converted, just mounted) (Pic coming later)

Rock Sliders Is what you need to get. I got a set of trail gear sliders from rugged rocks. I jack with them, drop my tuck on rocks and stumps with them and even use them as pivot points on the trail. They work great

Yesterday I pulled the TBI ecu and all the wires up from the carpet and pulled the blower box to see where it enters the firewall... Today I modified a glove box to nest the new smaller M30 ECU inside it. This will keep it higher above any water intrusion I might get and also give it ease of access for future purposes. So the glove box door (color of your interior) and the glove box liner (black) total a little over 1/2" thick in some areas. So I picked the far corner of the glove box and cut the liner the size of the ECU and then shaved down the webbing inside the glove box door in the same area.... Now the ECU sits nested about 3/8 deep in the liner. eventually I want to put the ecu above the glove box. this may take some custom AC ducting or maybe just mounting it up diagonal... I will make a wire frame ECU to show me where it would stick down and where I need to cut to make it work without actually having to cut to get the wire frame in there.

Well this weekend I wired up the IACV and the IACV-Regulator. The Idle Air Control Valve uses solenoid to open and close a needle valve allowing air to bypass the throttle body and increase the Idle. If there was ever a plug that needed to be changed to push-release It would be this one. If you have tried to unplug it to properly adjust your idle or remove the upper manifold then you know what I'm talking about... The IACV-Regulator is the tall tower looking thing on the driver side of the manifold near the firewall. It uses a Bi-metal heating element attached to a shutter. when the heating element is cold the shutter is wide open allowing air to bypass the throttle body for high cold idle. When the engine is running the heating element is always on and as it heats up the shutter closes. Attached to the restraining loop for the throttle cable (just left of center in the pic) Is a bracket I made for the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid. It was really the best place I could think to put it. Including this part is optional, just cap off the wires if you don't use it. I used the same Soleniod as the one for the EGR because it routes the hoses a little better. Lastly I ripped all the crazy amount of grounding wires out of the harness and spliced them into two thick 12ga grounding wires. this greatly reduced the bulk of the harness and cleaned it up some. My clutter of un-run wires is much smaller now, I just need to run the EGR, AC controls, and replace the plugs for the CYL HEAD sensor and round TPS PLUG. Then I can work on power routing to the harness and lining up wires inside the truck to be ready for that. and then I can focus on the very small amount of In-Cab Wiring and ECU mounting...

Well this weekend I wired up the IACV and the IACV-Regulator. The Idle Air Control Valve uses solenoid to open and close a needle valve allowing air to bypass the throttle body and increase the Idle. If there was ever a plug that needed to be changed to push-release It would be this one. If you have tried to unplug it to properly adjust your idle or remove the upper manifold then you know what I'm talking about... The IACV-Regulator is the tall tower looking thing on the driver side of the manifold near the firewall. It uses a Bi-metal heating element attached to a shutter. when the heating element is cold the shutter is wide open allowing air to bypass the throttle body for high cold idle. When the engine is running the heating element is always on and as it heats up the shutter closes. Attached to the restraining loop for the throttle cable (just left of center in the pic) Is a bracket I made for the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid. It was really the best place I could think to put it. Including this part is optional, just cap off the wires if you don't use it. I used the same Soleniod as the one for the EGR because it routes the hoses a little better. Lastly I ripped all the crazy amount of grounding wires out of the harness and spliced them into two thick 12ga grounding wires. this greatly reduced the bulk of the harness and cleaned it up some. My clutter of un-run wires is much smaller now, I just need to run the EGR, AC controls, and replace the plugs for the CYL HEAD sensor and round TPS PLUG. Then I can work on power routing to the harness and lining up wires inside the truck to be ready for that. and then I can focus on the very small amount of In-Cab Wiring and ECU mounting...

If I'm not mistaken, the evap sensor just detects weather or not the valve is doing its job or not. I Like carbon canisters, they(the purpose) don't effect the vehicle in any way other than taking up a little space and they keep your carport, garage etc from smelling like fuel. The valve messes up when it sucks up water and then you get a sensor code. If your canister is easy to get to (mine has a quick release latch) I would just remove it and cap off the lines it for wheeling and stick it back for daily driving. You can also (wd21 the pathfinder models) pull the big bottom cap off and let it air out overnight to get the water out.

The canister will not slosh, its filled with carbon. but if the carbon is wet it will not deal with vapors as well. but it sounds like yours is not the problem...

Well I Finally found a wire that is suitable for my variable voltage fuel pump. http://www.opentip.c...ucts_id=1572727 It has to be shielded or the frequency spread across 20ft of wire mess with all kinds of electronics nearby. Think EMP with a 20ft antenna. I was trying to find 14ga shielded single conductor but it doesn't exist (unless I buy like 500 feet or more) or the so I'm using 14ga shielded two conductor and splicing the shield with the extra wire for a stronger connection at the harness. I just wish it was more than just a foil shield. Or I'd rather use this stuff but I'm still waiting on a price... http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=PTFE-Tape-Wrap

did you notice any difference with the Nology wires? and for the record I like the OE yazki and sumitomo wires with the bonded boots and numbed jackets. too bad they are so skinny tho.

the z31 ecu is probably the worst ecu to use. they had firing order issues with the injectors and many of them were recalled and hot wired to become bank fire instead of sequential fire. If your looking for easy, pull everything from an MPFI Pathfinder, all the harnesses go the right places and lay right. The M30, early maxima and pathfinder ECU are all very similar in terms of smooth running, idle quality and error free operation. Simply put, the m30 ECU has more capabilities and is a little more performance friendly when it comes to doing modifications to the engine. (better MAF and programming for that MAF and a tiantia o2 sensor and associated programming) I believe Nistune will do a pathfinder ECU but it would be on a case by case basis. where as the type 2 Nistune board (for m30 and other cars) is part of their line up.

well yeah any spark engine fuel can knock. The point is ethanol is more resistant to it.

Are you swapping the electronics or are you gonna try and run the vortec on the pathy computer?

I was surprised mine did it, it was like coincidence. I probably would have scratched my head for a bit if I hadn't already thought beforehand when responding to yours.

Actually It does because you have less spring to compress. If you have 16 coils and the spring compresses 1 inch for every 100 lbs then each coil is compressing 1/16 of an inch to equal one inch. Now cut that in half. the siffness of the wire is still the same but there is now much less of it to flex so under 100 lbs each coil still compressed 1/16 of an inch to equal one HALF inch because you only have 8 coils. To compress the half spring one full inch you now need 200lbs. so by cutting the spring in half you have doubled the spring rate. Don't belive me? buy an old spring at the JY and try it yourself. The wire stiffness itself stays the same but the overall spring rate multiplies by the amount you cut off.

Cutting the coils will make the ride stiffer. The 3" lift coils made for the front of an XJ Cherokee will lift the rear of a pathfinder 3 inches. Theses are what I have been running for a few years now. They are the same spring rate as stock so not as firm as the AC coils.

Here's how Emissions friendly ECU's are programmed; Run rich, exess fuel reduces NOX but increases Hydrocarbons and that's ok because Catalytic Converters reduce Hydrocarbons thus bringing both scores down. Introduce a vacuum leak and you add un-metered air-flow causing your run stoich or even a little lean. Now your NOX production is up because you have no excess fuel.

Why Can't the 2wd outers and adjuster be used instead of re-tapping the 4wd adjusters?

proper sized dual pipes for your tuck would be about 1.5" (too keep your gas velocity up and not loose any scavenging) IMO true dual belongs on v8, v10, v12... where there are enough exhaust pulses from each bank to give a good scavenging pull.

Nice pictures. The axle looks great and the camera that took it must be pretty good too.